| 911fanatic |
12-26-2012 04:22 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by mashal
(Post 627361)
Take it to a Detailer who knows what they are doing , get a full exterior done with opti gaurd , you won't regret it .
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Probably the best advice, although it can be safely resolved by a newbie with the right tools / supplies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ViCe86
(Post 627375)
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That is just a paint sealant ( no abrasives in it ) and unfortunately will do nothing to remove or even hide the swirls / holograms inflicted by the body shop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by makab
(Post 627399)
I think I need a polishing compound to permanently remove the holograms. Waxing only fills up the light scratches and will go away after couple of wash.
I may be wrong
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Compounds and polishes are two totally different products. Polishes for the most part will remove swirls and light scratches inflicted during the wash process and can be followed up with the wax or sealant of your choice. Compounds typically are very aggressive for removing deeper defects and will need to be followed up with a polish to bring the gloss back to the paint before applying your wax or sealant. Wax itself will not hide anything but the lightest of swirls. Its not meant to do that job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTB727
(Post 627402)
Wax alone will not remove the hologram/swirling. Unfortunately, holograms and swirling fall into the category where it will need to be polished out. And sadly, most auto parts stores don't really carry any good polish for removing stuff like that.
If you have a buffer (preferably dual action or an orbital) you'll need a light/fine polishing pad (Lake Country white pad for example) and a good, easy to use polish would be Meguiar's M205. Before you do any sort of buffing, you'll need to wash and clay the car.
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Wax
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Very good advice and easily accomplished with the right supplies and a bit of time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by makab
(Post 627419)
yeah I thought so,
is the clay bar really necessary for a brand new car?
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Not always, but for the little bit of time it takes to ensure the paint is clean, its worth it. All the FRS / BRZ I've done have been clean on the horizontal panels as they are covered in plastic but the vertical panels have been littered in rail dust from transporting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by makab
(Post 627827)
polish every 6 months? you are not worried about removing the clear coat after couple of years?
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You could polish your car twice a year with a white pad and M205 or Menz Power Finish to remove light swirls and you would never go through the clear. Both of those combos remove such a small amount of clear, its not even measurable with the electronic paint thickness gauge I have. Using a heavy cutting compound first and following up with a polish may result in removing 2-3 microns but thats it and that king of polishing should only be necessary once if you are maintaining it properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRSFirestorm
(Post 627874)
The dealership, I assume, did however manage to get some pretty nice swirls and scuffs on the deck lid. I'm going to hold off till spring to do a good polish and overall paint detail. I may even color sand it. The factory paint really isn't so good. A lot of orange peel. Hoping there is a decent amount of clear on top of it.
Watch the videos, get a good buffer and pads and do it yourself. Its really hard to muck it up and something I enjoy doing.
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These cars don't come with much in the way of clear so I'd stay away from wetsanding and live with any defects that a product like Megs 105 won't remove. 2000 grit sandpaper won't remove much clear but once you are past that in aggressiveness, the clear is gonna come off in a hurry. You are correct in that using a DA polisher like the Griots or a Porter Cable is very safe and any enthusiast should own one in order to keep their car mint.
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