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finally pulled a plug!
After couple of months and test driving both FR-S and WRX hatchback, I decided to go with Asphalt FR-S in manual. I have not regretted my decision! It is a great looking car and the interior does not bother me. I came from S2000 which had a driver oriented interior so that might explain.
Cant wait till the first 1000 miles is over!:party0030: However I had 1 question, when i bought the car, it had some minor scratches, so I asked them to detail it and they took it to body shop. To make the story short, I have the car now with hologram/buffing trails :thumbdown: and I was wondering what would be the best way to remove them? 1. take it back to dealer and ask them to fix it? (i hate to leave the car at the dealer) 2. what would be the best product I can use to remove the hologram? (prefer to get it from local store) and yes I have searched the net and it brings up the the worst case scenario where the paint has scratches, water marks, etc.... where as in my case, the paint only has the hologram and it is new Any help/suggestion will/would be appreciated! |
Congrats on the new car. Black is great but shows everything.
Orbital buffer and soft pad with a fine cut glaze compound or your gonna spend a lot of time doing it by hand. |
thanks. I will stop by Autozone to see what I can find.
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Take it to a Detailer who knows what they are doing , get a full exterior done with opti gaurd , you won't regret it .
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If you want you can try this. It's amazing and usually does the job.
Any auto store should have it. It comes with an applicator pad and I use a soft polishing/microfiber cloth to wipe off the wax. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...XL._SS500_.jpg |
I think I need a polishing compound to permanently remove the holograms. Waxing only fills up the light scratches and will go away after couple of wash.
I may be wrong |
Wax alone will not remove the hologram/swirling. Unfortunately, holograms and swirling fall into the category where it will need to be polished out. And sadly, most auto parts stores don't really carry any good polish for removing stuff like that.
If you have a buffer (preferably dual action or an orbital) you'll need a light/fine polishing pad (Lake Country white pad for example) and a good, easy to use polish would be Meguiar's M205. Before you do any sort of buffing, you'll need to wash and clay the car. 1. Wash 2. Clay 3. Polish 4. Wax |
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yeah I thought so, is the clay bar really necessary for a brand new car? |
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seems like i need to invest in detailing tools/product. i regret letting dealer detail the car. sigh! |
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That is, unless that spilt milk can be fixed with a fine grade cutting agent, final polishing agent, and some wax ;) |
It's a great idea to do the detail on the car. Claybar is necessary. IronX is necessary. Here's a full detail we did on mine after only 3 weeks ownership and no washing or touching of any sorts after rolling off the lot:
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...tml#post354962 |
I'd recommend taking a look at Adams polishes and maybe investing in a porter cable. I do all my own waxing polishing detailing and make a Saturday out of it. Needless to say I always had people walking up to the Tacoma I previously owned (2007 trd off road with rad red paint 4x4) and asking if it was brand new because the paint was in such good shape. My FR-S is the same way and the asphalt paint pops! Especially after a proper washing claying and wax. I wax maybe once a quarter and polish once every 6 months to once a year just depending on how hard I've been on the paint. Your buffing marks like previously stated will need to be polished out though gives Adams polishes a look
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25018
Watch some of this guy's videos...He's probably a little too good to have the same results in your driveway but he gives good tips throughout all of his videos. Plus it's cool to see him detail really nice cars :) |
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