TF Brake Duct Cooling Kit
 

I figure this would be a more appropriate thread for our Brake Duct Kit.

Here is a quick sample of the prototype brake kit that's currently in development.


No clearance issues at full lock with suspension loaded.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...07.600.400.jpg

You can see (....kinda) the 6061-T6 aluminum backing plate inside the brake rotor. forces cool air to pass through the rotor vents.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...08.600.400.jpg

From the front view with wheels straight. You can see where we had to trim some of the fender lining for the hose to pass through.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...09.600.400.jpg

view from under the car. See the NACA Duct.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...10.600.400.jpg

We could barely notice the NACA duct was even there....
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...12.600.400.jpg

:thumbup:
Hope you enjoyed....

This is awesome!

I like it as a rough draft but not as a final product. Good start though.

I like the 3 basics of brake ducting approach:

1: Fewest number of bends possible (increase airflow by reducing resistance)
2: Largest tubing possible (A 3" hose will flow more than twice as much air than a 2" hose for example).
3: Get the airflow as close to the rotor and as close to the rotor's center as possible so that the cooling veins in the rotor can do their job better and cool the rotor evenly. Do not point the ducting at the rotor face if you can help it. It looks like your aluminum adapter might be accomplishing this but can't tell from pics.

Considering this is not a FWD car and there are not drive axles to contend with, reducing the number bends in the tubing and pointing at the ideal location should be easier. Key word being "should". I do like the front scoop and how it's nice and discrete behind the grill.

Curious wht you didnt make the fog light into a ram? Been thinking of doing this on mine.

Sent from my flux capacitor using Taptalk

Just as a random thought bubble... It might also be beneficial, for the sake of reducing maintenance, to run a secondary duct directly to the back of the hub for the purposes of extra cooling to the wheel bearing. Now I'm just spitballin'....

rice_classic:

1. to accommodate proper hose length for full lock to lock without interfering with coilovers, we couldn't straighten out the hose or mount it in any other location.
2. There is no room for 3" hose to snake through. Also, if you look at the FR-S spindle, there is no need for a 3" hose, because there is hardly any gap/spacing between the rotor center and spindle. Even if were were able to get a 3" hose in there somehow, the opening to our back plate wouldn't be able to flow all of the air coming through.
3. You can see how our back-plate seals off the inside of the brake rotor completely to force air through the rotor veins. The back-plate is designed to a very tight tolerance to prevent air from escaping.
There is very little room to work with, but the final product will be laser cut with slightly larger opening with a shape that follows the exact shape of the hub.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28....1280.1280.jpg

The location of the NACA duct will have the most direct air flow due to the shape of the bumper. We also didn't want to create any additional aerodynamic drag by creating more openings on the front bumper then necessary. Also, the location of where the fog light holes would be would capture some air, but not as much as our NACA duct on the front of the bumper.

Please let me know when this is available!

:thumbsup:

Very good work.


Adding to list of future race-car build parts. :clap:

Is there a reason why you chose the center grill instead of fog light cover under the turn indicator to run the intake port?

looks clean, I like that you used the center grill instead of fog light! any thoughts on doing this for the BRZ?

On an unrelated note this makes me want to use the center grille FOR fog lights. Lots of room behind it, it seems.

1. We decided to use the front grille because it keeps the cost down.
2. It is more direct air flow on the front versus under the turn signal due to the location of where the inlet would be and shape of the bumper.
3. Naca duct will capture more air flow then making a hole under the turn signal.
4. Creating more holes on the front bumper then necessary creates more aerodynamic drag.

This should work for both FR-S and BRZ.

This is not a NACA duct.