First oil change....ever.
 

Hey guys,

im getting ready to have an oil change on my FR-S and i've never done an oil change before. Any tips? like what kind of oil would be best? How much? or a DIY?

Thanks!! :thanks:

---> http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9221

I remember my first beer...

Remember, warm NOT hot.

A few tips if you're doing it yourself...

Oil filter: use the Subaru 130 oil filter (I think the full part # is 15208AA130). Toyota/Scion use the same filter, just in a Toyota box. I have found that buying the filter from the local Subaru dealer is much cheaper than going to Toyota. For me, Subi charges $8, Toyota wants $17 for the exact same filter in a different box.

Drain plug gasket: Get one. These cars use the thin steel "crush" type, and they often leak if you attermpt to re-use them. Should be >$2.

Oil: The choice is yours...there are lots of good oils out there in a 0W20. Prices vary wildly. It is generally accepted that one of the really good ones is the Toyota 0W20 SN right from the dealership. I get mine by the case (12) for about $5/quart. It is made by Exxon Mobil and has a good reputation among those who know oils. If you want to get everything in one place, the Subaru oil also has a good rep. You can spend more and get the likes of Eneos Sustina, Motul, or Redline, but if you stick to the maintenance schedule, it's probably overkill. You will need to buy at least 6 quarts, as the oil change will use ~5.5.

Ebay has 3 oem filters for 25 shipped :)

And buy this

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VCB9WC"]Fumoto F-108N Engine Oil Drain Valve:Amazon:Automotive[/ame]

Here's a thread I made about other stuff to make an oil change go smoothly:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10007

Pre-step: Jack up the car(Please use jackstands)
Step 1: Open the hood and take out the cap
step 2: go under the engine and unbolt everything
step 3: put an oil pan underneath the car right where the oil is about to drain out(Make sure you open the cap on the oil pan!)
step 4: Open the drain plug
Step 5: Take out the oil filter
Step 6: Close the drain plug
Step 7: refill oil
Step 8: Check oil level
Step 9: Start the car and let idle for 30 second
Step 10: Recheck oil level
Step 11: Reinstall everything and youre good to go

Time: 15 minute

More i read these forums more i learn this is alot of folks first car. I changed my first oil in a vehicle by 9 years old. Was driving manual tranny by 10, rebuilding small engines by 14. Grew up on a farm no laws to go by in middle of no where, thankfull for all that now days for sure. Still have lots to learn on the car though so that's cool.

This car is super easy to change the oil on and probably one of the best cars for a new person to break in on. You do now need a fumoto valve with this car, I know everyone will tell you to get one but you have to jack this car up or ramp it with or without the valve and after that point you are saving maybe 10 seconds. It takes no time at all to find the drain plug and unscrew it and the valve is a complete waste of money for this car in my opinion. The valve's were designed to make hard to change cars easier, when this is the easiest car you will find.

Get the car warm, put on some nitrile gloves and go at it. Super easy. Filter is right on top and won't make a mess once you drain the car and the drain plug is staring you right in the face when you get underneath. Just drain, replace filter (make sure to wet the seal on the filter with some oil), and refill and enjoy your car.

As for oils. Good luck and god speed, there has been numerous hours of time wasted on here debating which oil is better and why some oils suck and others don't. Hit the books.

This process even for a novice is a 15 minute job tops.

TIP: On the filter if you get a "blue" colored filter from the dealership and they tell you that is the one. Punch them in the face and ask for the Japanese version of the filter. The "black" colored filter is the Japanese filter and the blue one is the knock off NA one which is a cheaper filter.

buy the toyota 0w20 oil

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...75517572_n.jpg

Just wondering if anyone has difficulty unbolting the drain plug by hand? Wondering if the factory got it on too tight?

You will need a socket and rachet to remove it for the first time. I like to put it back in with one too and just give a 1/4 turn after it is finger tight for safe measure. The drain plug needs to be tight enough to engage the crush washer and prevent any leaks. The item of the oil change that is more torque sensitive is the filter.

Yes the OEM oil is pretty good and reasonably affordable. If you have the cash lieing around there are other choices like motul 8100 and other oils that a little bit heavier on the price but offer good performance. The key is figuring out what you will be using this car for, tons of track days or daily driving with no real visits to the track. Each situation really will benefit from two different oils.