Do you need hubcentric rings on aftermarket wheels?
 

Hubcentric rings allow the bore of the aftermarket wheel to be the same exact size as the hub bore. This makes it completely idiot-proof to mount the wheels incorrectly. It appears that getting hubcentric rings is a no-brainer, right?

I did a little research and this is what I've found.

There's argument stating that not only do the rings help straighten the wheel when mounting them, but it also helps support the wheel, such as, absorbing road vibrations. Due to the wheel bore and the hub bore sizes being exactly the same, there's no play for the wheel to move around. However, this is false. The majority of the rings are thin and made out of plastic or aluminum. Under extreme g-forces, does it really seem reasonable that these rings can help support the wheel? This begs the question: do hubcentric rings provide any benefit besides aiding in the mounting of the wheel?

Many say that hubcentric rings aren't needed to properly mount and center a wheel. If one properly mounts a wheel by using the correct aftermarket lug nuts, hand tightening in a star pattern, and torquing to the proper specification, then a wheel will be centered.

For the track enthusiasts, it's actually recommended not to install these rings because they can potentially melt under extreme conditions. Here are just a few quotes from S2000 members.

You can find more information about melting rings by visiting this thread.
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/2959...bcentric+rings

Based on these facts, we can conclude a couple of things. For your average driver, hubcentric rings can aid in properly centering your wheel. For track enthusiasts, it is not recommended to install the rings because they can potentially overheat and melt. However, one can can properly center their wheel without the hubcentric rings as long as it's mounted properly.

What are your thoughts on this topic?

My thoughts are that you'd be an idiot to think thin plastic rings would hold up being sandwiched between your wheel and hub. As for the aluminum ones, they may malform, but only after so much abuse that other components of your car are likely to be failing as well. And I certainly don't see the aluminum ones melting.

No, not needed

I never used it on my 350z, especially because I was tracking the car.

However I was really careful each time I installed my track wheels. Star pattern, correct lugnuts, and kept on jiggling the wheel as I tightened to make sure it's centered.

But honestly I did get some minor vibrations on the highway (resonance was like 70mph) so maybe my way wasn't perfect either.

I wouldnt, but thats me

The plastic rings that came with my Enkeis survived a track day but they feel brittle so I'll probably leave them off from now on if I can't find some aluminum ones.

So I grabbed one of the plastic rings from my Enkeis and checked the specs

http://i.imgur.com/IyrNU.jpeg

http://i.imgur.com/pl2Jn.jpeg

Am I reading this correctly?
72.62mm Outer Diameter (wheel bore size)
56.15mm Diameter (vehicle hub size)

If so, these are the ONLY metal rings I can find, and this ebay page keeps making Chrome crash and it's freaking me out... :iono:

i don't think aluminum is that much more durable than plastic. if you're going to track the car, the consenus is to mount the wheels without the rings.

lugs are designed to hold the wheel to the hub not support the weight of the wheels. the hub supports the weight of the wheels thats why hubcentric rings are a must for aftermarket wheels.

I have used plastic ones for years without any problems.

Proper Aluminum rings should survive even the toughest beatings. My SSR's came with hardened aluminum CNC machined centering rings. I wouldn't run without them, they give me piece of mind and even under heavy track use they shouldn't warp. While I can see plastic rings melting, I cannot see aluminum rings melting. Soft aluminum may warp and deform...but proper hardened 6061 or better (dare I say it, 7075) aluminum rings shouldn't. Proper rings can only help, I track with my rings in and haven't had a single problem yet. I also have one of the higher mileage BRZ's on this forum at 12,000 miles. I've had these wheels on the car since about 2,000 miles and I live in an area that is notorious for potholes and crappy roads.

Not needed for this car. There are other cars that do need them though (BMWs come to mind...)

1010tires will make you any size you want IIRC.
They bought $35000 Hondas...why would you listen to them?











;)

1010tires has 72.62 to 56.15 on their list in both Aluminum and Plastic. Get the aluminum ones if you do. It may also be worth it to call and ask them what grade of aluminum they manufacture their rings out of. If it's a 2000-series aluminum then it will be pretty soft and may deform. If it's 6000-series or 7000-series then you should be fine!

In all honesty you could probably go to a local machine shop and ask them to make you a set out of high performance aluminum. Drawing up a hubcentric ring in CAD and transfering it to a CNC milling machine shouldn't take more than half an hour....it's not like these are complex forms to create in CAD, it's two circles. Could be easily cut out on a WaterJet from some aluminum plate and then refined on a CNC Mill super easily.

I am around 12,500. PWND! :D

I have not had any issues with my aluminum hubcentric rings on two sets of wheels (no tracking, plenty of spirited driving). A couple of them stick to the wheels a bit, but still come off easily. They don't stick to the hub at all. I find it simply makes it a lot easier to mount, as I can get the studs centered before even putting the first nut on, and it can be held with one hand while the other grabs a nut (get your mind out of the gutter).

I have no idea what grade Al they are. I see the plastic ones as cheap insurance for crappy tire shop techs. And there are lots of those.