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A warning about wheel studs
I installed aftermarket wheel studs and spacers to give me +38mm in the rear. I don't want to run staggered, but I like the look of staggered. Anyways I used a kit very similar to this one:
Ebay link Well after a week I went to retorque my studs just to be safe and a single stud was spinning in the hub. Shit. Either it was broken or the worst nightmare, it rounded off the hub. Well these cheap chinese studs were not made up to spec and were a hair smaller than the stock ones. I ended up getting two sets of ARP extended studs and they went in without a hitch. I was able to bang out the shitty ebay studs with a tiny hammer and almost zero force. I probably could have got them out with my bare hands. The ARP studs would take a sledge hammer to remove. So don't do something stupid and just use no name wheel studs. This is mostly my fault so I wanted to make sure no one runs into this problem as well. |
Use Eibach Trak+ or Project KICS spacers, not junk.
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next up, Tein turbo kits! :bonk: |
The classic "You get what you pay for.". Thank You for sharing your experience and hopefully it will save others the same headaches.
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Currently I use universal Project KICS spacers as needed (ie if I get a flat on the RPF1s and need to use an OEM wheel over the AP calipers). I also use ARP studs though :) |
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Just to be clear, the spacers in that ebay link are fine, they are hub-centric and high quality. It doesn't really mater who makes the spacers, just make sure you get hub-centric. Don't skimp on studs.
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guessing arp has part numbers for studs for the fr-s?.. or wha
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to accomodate 38mm spacers - how long were the studs? 70 / 80mm?
anything longer then 50mm, I'd recommend the ARP chromoly studs. That's a lot of stress on some no-name brand studs. at least nothing happened while the car was being driven. |
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