DIY request dynomat/fatmat full car sound damping
 

Just wondering if anyone would even be interested in a DIY for this I was considering doing a write up on it.. But I know this is a sports car and extra weight is a no go. Just posting see if anyone was interested :thumbup:

It would be good to have. I did my doors and rear quarter panels and it made the whole car so much nicer to be in. Drastically reduced road noise.

Sweet yea I think I'm going to go all out and do the floor, headliner, and trunk

I'd really appreciate if someone could show the doors. The only thing I don't like about this car is the door rattle with certain bass/songs. If I could get rid of it I'd be in heaven.

I would totally be interested - especially in it being a guide on how to strip your interior to do so. I would love to help my car quiet down a little... except for the noises I like anyway ;)

I already can't hear my tires break loose, but that's because the bridgestones are quiet, and because I usually have my stereo too loud fighting the road noise.

100% interested, please do tutorial!

The how to apply deadening mat isn't really all that interesting to me, but a DIY guide showing how to strip the entire interior to *get* to the locations to deaden would be a great addition to our DIY library, IMHO. This has applications beyond sound deadening and would be useful on many levels.

Stripping the interior is not hard, it is just time consuming. My son and I just finished this project and here is what you need to do. Sorry did not stop to take pictures.

The process is fairly self explanatory when you are looking at the car. Make sure your windows are up and your battery is disconnected.

Trunk area:
Take out the trunk floor panel. Underneath are 3 styrofoam sections. The ones on the side are held in by one plastic push pin. The center piece is held in by three of these pins. There are also three Christmas type fasteners that fasten the cloth that hangs down from the backside of the rear seat back. You can pry the push pins up with a flat blade screwdriver, but put your hand over the pins. They fly out with a lot of force when they let go. The side panels and the plastic panel across the rear of the trunk are held in by those pins that have a head that pops up when you gently pry up, then the whole pin pulls straight up. None are hidden. All these panels just lift out. There is an electrical plug on the drivers side panel which must be disconnected.

The main cabin:

Take out the seats. You will need a E10 socket which is a torx socket. Craftsman make one but it only comes in a set. After you unbolt the four E10 seat bolts, you have to disconnect the seat wiring harness. This is a PITA. A small screwdriver, small needle nose pliers and a light really help. Remove seats. The rear seats are hard to get out. There is a 10mm bolt at the front of the seat. The rear in held in by a hook. The seat bottom is only foam with no frame. You can't get any leverage to push this hook in and then down. I lifted up the seat bottom and reached under the seat and disconnected the hook. The seats then lift out. The rear seat back is held in by 6 10mm bolts. It then lifts out of the car.

The rear plastic quart panels have a couple of the pop-up type pins that need to be removed. Then the panel can be pulled straight out disconnecting the pins on the back side. Make sure you remove any that remain attached to the car and then replace them in the back of the panel. Pull up the weatherstrip on the bottom of the door opening. The sill plates can be pried out with a flat blade screwdriver, wrap it with a rag first. Then the plastic inner piece below the door can be pried out.

There is already an excellent thread on door card removal so I will not address the doors.

The console has screws under the storage area. The lower panels on the console sides are pried out at the back and then slid towards you and out. The console cubby is a PITA. You can't get a grip to pull it straight out. We pushed from behind with a big screwdriver and got it to budge. There are two,console screws hiding there. Unscrew the shift know and pry up the silver shift boot frame. There are wires for the traction control that are easy to disconnect. There is a screw for the console under there. Grab the e brake at the bottom and lift straight up. Slide the boot over the handle and out. The console can now come out. There are two Christmas type fasteners in the top and bottom of the dead pedal, just pry out. There are other plastic pins holding down the carpet along the firewall and floor braces. These unscrew, but they will pry out. Mine were all damaged it seemed by over tightening. Lift up the carpet at the sills where there are hard plastic pieces that snap into the sill. Slide the carpet towards the rear, there is a piece you need to lift over the e brake. It is easy to fold the molded carpet in half and slide it straight out the trunk opening.

Have a cold beverage and admire your stripped interior :happy0180:

I'd be interested in this DIY from a door perspective as well. The rattling I get in the doors, like #87, gets annoying

I have some sample product from GT Mat (not much) but will be doing a DIY maybe this weekend. This will include pictures and video.

Is this correct or do you mean cracked? I thought the windows lock up into the roof of the car when the doors are shut. If the battery is pulled when they are like this then they are stuck.

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+1 for DIY. I'm a sound deadener n00b and would love to see the key areas to cover with mat. I got a sample of GT Mat for free but it's not a huge amount. I have no desire to lift the carpet, so I'd be interested in the best places to stick this stuff. Like a big square behind each speaker, etc.

Most likely, this is the door switch module (driver's side). Mine had just enough play in it that it rattled like crazy. I took the door panel off, removed that whole switch box and stuffed some thin foam in the front and back gaps (you'll see what I mean, the whole thing has some play in it that you need to stop). Music sounds a TON better now, but I'll still be adding some mat to the doors.

FYI - I also started noticing a rattle that seemed to come from the dash. It was driving me nuts until I realised it was the rear view mirror. The base was rattling against the windshield, so I folded a small piece of paper and wedged it under the top part of the base. Now there's a goofy white rectangle that you can see from the front of the car, but no more rattles.

Id be interested in a DIY sound deadening as well. Im not sure how much weight this will add but I do think the road noise on the innerstate is a little high for my taste and when available I'd like to add to the stock sound system in the BRZ.

Not true. We opened and closed the doors several times during this procedure and the windows would clock properly. Don't know how or why but it does. There must be a Cap or secondary battery that allows the windows to work for some time after the battery is disconnected.

For safety's sake, I think you want the windows to work so the doors can be opened after an accident, even if there is no battery power.

"Dynamat" is a good vibration dampener, but it's not an insulator. You apply it to rigid surfaces that would tend to vibrate, and you don't have to apply edge-to-edge (maybe only 75% coverage). When you have the interior panels stripped out, take your knuckle and rap on sheets of metal, wherever you get a reverberating drum sound is where you apply vibration dampener. Apply a square of the stuff to the center of the panel and knock again, it should then produce more of a muted knock.

Between the sheet metal and interior panels you can add more foam insulation, this helps stop the vibration that make it through the chassis, and this is a material where you want edge-to-edge coverage (but avoid compressing it).