*DIY* Winter Tire Mode Transformation
 

Summer tires -> Winter tires

Tools you will need:

• 19mm 1/2 inch socket
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
• 1/2 inch micrometer torque wrench
• 1/2 inch extension
• 2 wheel chocks
• Hydraulic Jack
• 2 Jack stands (Optional; but highly recommended)
• Hockey puck or type of vulcanized rubber (Optional; but highly recommended)
• Lug Nut Key (FR-S)
• Super High Temp Grease (Optional)
• Sharpie (Optional)
• Masking tape (Optional)
• Tire pressure reader (Optional)
• Tire compressor (Optional)

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First thing's first; you will need to jack the vehicle up to remove each wheel. ALSO; this would be the BEST time to add those mud guards/mud flaps for the winter!

Try NOT to jack the vehicle up by its body pinch weld (as they recommend) because as doing so will result in the paint peeling/rubbing off even with soft wood or vulcanized rubber puck. (Subaru's ridiculous soft paint...sucks) As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0557.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0552.jpg

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Instead; I chose a safer location with strong support... REMEMBER pull your handbrake up and use tire chocks for the rear if you have them!

For the front, I jacked the vehicle up with the puck just behind the radiator support, where the aluminum oil pan "skid" plate is attached to the body frame. (**WARNING** DO NOT jack the vehicle up by the aluminum oil pan skid plate or any plastic trim as they WILL NOT support the weight of the vehicle.)

As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0553.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0563.jpg

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Before the vehicle is fully hoisted up; go ahead and use the 19mm socket along with the breaker bar to loosen up all the lug nuts on the wheel. After that; raise the vehicle's front end up high enough to take the wheel off.

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After taking the wheel off; because I am using steelies, the hub would be exposed to all the road salt and elements. This step is completely optional, but I did this just because I had the grease available. (Repeat for both front wheels) :) As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0555.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0559.jpg

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I would also grease up all the backing of the steelies too; just to prevent it from rusting against the disc brake rotors. (Try not to get any onto the rotors and wheel studs; wipe it off if you do) As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0560.jpg

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Now that everything is greased (optional); you can mount the wheels on and hand tight the lug nuts as tight as your hands can.

Go to the other side and repeat the process.

Once both front wheels are on and tightened snugly by hand; go ahead and lower the vehicle slowly.

Use the torque wrench along with the 1/2 inch drive extension and set it to 89 ft-lbs. Torque the lug nuts down in a star pattern to ensure evenly torqued and check it twice to make sure you've tighten all the nuts down for both sides. As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0564.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../DSC_05652.jpg

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Lower the jack and bring it to the rear. CHOCK the front wheels before continuing! I hoisted the rear end up by the rear sub frame as it was the safest and strongest spot (Best to use the puck or wood so you don't dent anything). As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0568.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0567.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0566.jpg

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Now that the rear of the vehicle is hoisted up; do exactly what you did to the front X2. As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0556.jpg

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After torquing down both rear wheels, let the jack down and you're pretty done! I would then double check all the tire pressures just to make sure they are up to spec; if not inflate/deflate as accordingly. As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0569.jpg

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For the stock wheels, I keep them organized by using masking tape and a sharpie just to note which wheel belongs to where. (Ex. Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front...) As seen below.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0575.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0576.jpg

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That's it! You're done! Enjoy the winter season and drive safe out there with all your nannies on!

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Z/DSC_0570.jpg

Cheers :happy0180:
David

I thought the differential was the preferred point of contact for jacking up the rear? Good guide though. I didn't think to grease some of the contact points.

Differential works just as well. :)

Where did you get the hub centric steelies and do you have a part number for them?

As much as I want to know as well; unfortunately I do not have that information... I bought it from a buddy of mine who works at a dealership and he has his "sources" he rather not disclose... :iono:

They are most likely Subaru's X40867

Hmm I never heard of using grease to prevent rust on the wheels. Brilliant!

For anyone wondering, tirerack offers hubcentric steel wheels.

greasing is soo simple I would way I never thought of it haha

glad to see people doing DIY for easy stuff too cause of these little nuggets of gold

Just order my winters today! Going with the Generals

Good DIY. Glad to see they fit. LOL!!!! I just ordered the same setup from Garage Five.

Your car almost looks exactly like mine! Except I went with Rally Armor mudflaps instead of the Toyota ones. High five though! :happy0180:

im rocking steelies for winter too!

:happy0180:

Yes, you can jack from the diff. I always use a block of wood, but the puck would be fine, too.

Why are there no jack stands on your list of items?? I would not even consider working on a car supported only by a floor jack. Jack stands are cheap and will likely last longer than you will.

Yeah, I should of added that onto the list.
So you people who are doing this; use those jack stands as a safety measure!

For myself; personally, I use them on all my vehicles...but this time I said "eff this" after seeing what the jack and hockey puck did to my pinch welds.
Also... since I did not have to crawl under the vehicle, I did not feel the need to use the stands...although it is recommended; and of course, would be safer for you and the vehicle.