From a shop, ****heads at parkland mazda.

Should I also apply anti seize to the thread?

I'd be taking it back to them and making them fix it at their cost.

they should replace the whole lot as they are likely all over torqued and probably damaged.

The torque setting is in the owners manual.

I don't use anti seize on mine.

It is not recommended to use anti-seize. The recommended torque is based on a non-lubricated fastener.

That being said, I do use anti-seize on mine with ~10% less torque.

Anyone know if you can buy brake retaining clips for the rear drum brakes, mine snapped trying to get the rotor off.

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f0&oe=5EC28A92

Pin: 26716FJ000
Clip: 26714FJ030

Double check/seach those.
I'm in the USA and see that you're in Australia, not sure if the part numbers always match up between markets but there's a good chance that they do.
Hope that helps.

Thanks that helped toyota and part codes isn’t helpful, so called up a local subaru d/ship and they ordered off that part code.

@Dave-ROR or anyone else who has been able to remove the axle nut, if I could pick your brain for a quick minute:

I'm gonna assume you guys used a 6-point 32mm socket (or SAE equivalent) to remove the axle nut? A 12-point would just round off the bolt, correct?

Also, can anyone tell me what happens if you attempt to remove the axle nut without removing the dimple?

The dimple is designed as a lock...... Factory replacements can be done front and rear without removing the hub.

Use a powerful electric impact...It laughs at the dimple.

And you only need to remove the axle nut in the rear if you are installing extended studs...the standard size can be replaced by just removing the rotors.

Yep, installing ARP extended wheel studs using the ball joint method. Fronts are done no problem, just need to do the rears now.

I'm not sure if my electric Ryobi at full power will do the trick. Will buy a 6-point later on today to see if I can get it off but otherwise might mount the wheel to the hub and take a breaker bar to it if the Ryobi isn't powerful enough.

Alright, both axle nuts are off, but for fuck's sake, the axle will not separate from my hub. Took a mallet, no luck. Does not seem to budge at all. Do I just need to use more force? Take a big chisel to it?

Sensor is off, hub bolts off, etc, unless I'm missing something really simple. Don't want to give up on this as I don't want to pay a shop to do the rears.

Any suggestions?

Put a block of wood on the axle shaft and swing harder?

Now that these cars are old... hammers/air hammers and pointed tools. Took me like 2 hours to do one side of my 2013 frs recently. Had to remove all the e brake bits and airhammer it apart.

Figured as much; car is four years at this point. I'm gonna assume that bolting the wheel hub back on and removing the axle first won't do me much good?

Is the hub flapping around loose? If so, yeah bolt it back up so you don't waste energy when you hit the axle.

If you don't have an air hammer put the axle nut back on until it's flush with the end of the axle and hit it with a BFH.

Nineteen pages of great info.

Can anyone confirm that the Vorshlag "65 mm" can be installed in the front without removing the hub from the car?

I’ve replaced two stock studs now with stock. Quick and easy without taking off anything but the wheel.

The 76 ARP are too long, but seem to be “just” too long to go in without removing anything.

I’ll buy a set of Vorshlag "65 mm" to have at the track in case I break more studs. But if the hubs need to come out anyway, I’ll just go with the ARP instead.

Thanks for the information.

Can ARP 76mm long studs be installed in the REAR hubs without removing the hub from the car?

Can confirm the the ARP studs can easily be installed on the front once the rotors are removed. The hubs don’t have to be removed from the car.

Still haven’t attempted the rears. That’s what the off (track) season is for.

I don't think you're getting the rears done with them mounted on the car if the replacement studs are longer than stock. When I replaced my rears (with same size studs) I only had to remove the caliper and rotor, and there was a space around the 4 o'clock position where you could line up the stud you wanted to remove/replace without having to remove any other components from the assembly. Anything longer than a stock one isn't going to have the same convenience.

Yep you have to remove the hub for long studs. I tried on my red FRS for awhile since the hub was rusted in place and didn't found a way around it. That one corner took like 2-3 hours to do, 5 minutes for the stud change, the rest of the time air hammering shit apart...

You aren't getting 76mm installed with the hub on the car.
You can install 63mm(2.5") on the rears with the hub on.
You will have to cut the nipple at the end of the stud off, then they will slide in.

This thread has been incredibly helpful for me in replacing my wheel studs, so I thought I'd share my experience as well.

After several stripped or broken studs, I opted to install OEM length replacements from ARP (part number 100-7727, $32 for a five pack from Summit Racing). I was also weary of hammering on my wheel hubs, whether or not the risk of damage was high, and opted for the ball joint separator tool. I picked up the one from Advance Auto (part number W83022, $25), and it worked swimmingly. I didn't need to modify it at all, and it worked to both remove the studs and reinstall the front ones. I'll include a couple of photos below. I also wanted to disassemble as little as possible, not to be lazy (though I am) but to avoid the hassle of rusted on parts (this car is my daily driver in very snowy & salty winters). So I only removed the wheels, calipers and rotors.

I greased the bolt threads on the ball joint separator, and used a 15/16" wrench to turn it (all by hand, no air tools). Went a little slow, maybe 1-1.5 hours total per wheel, but it went smoothly. When removing the studs I used the wider jaw setting on the tool, and when reinstalling the studs I used the narrower setting. On removal, the stud would make a loud popping sound each time it moved, usually two pops before it was free, and by the last wheel I had almost stopped jumping every time it happened.

Pressing the new studs in on the fronts went fine. The tool didn't fit on the rears, so I did the lug nut and washer method there. I used seven 1/2" washers and a new lug nut. I was concerned about over torquing the studs, so I used my torque wrench set to 89 ftlbs to pull the studs in, and somewhat surprisingly it didn't take a huge amount of force, and the wrench never clicked.

Now hopefully I won't have any more problems with the studs. For me it was always when removing a lug nut. It would start to stick rather than come off smoothly and I immediately knew it was done. If it was due to user error, the only thing I can come up with is that I didn't clean off the threads really well before reinstalling, and perhaps a small bit of metal got lodged in there and tore things up. But I never had to meticulously clean threads on previous cars, so I don't know. But regardless, I'll be cleaning the studs and nuts thoroughly from now on just in case.

I installed Eibach's 10mm extended stud/spacer kit using the balljoint spreader tool method on my 2022 BRZ today. Pretty simple as it is on the first gen or most other cars. Warning though, the 2022+ BRZ with aluminum knuckles uses different torque specs than first gens (now 88.5 ft-lbs for the two caliper bracket/knuckle bolts and 70.1 ft-lbs for the four hub/knuckle bolts) but more annoyingly, the knuckle is in the way and there's no way to install extended studs without pulling the hub. Not a huge deal and overall pretty simple!

https://i.postimg.cc/fWNWY3vb/PXL-20...-161841702.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/rVWFdGxb/PXL-20...-162431691.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xYD1w7SS/PXL-20...-162928842.jpg

If you pull the dust shield, there's enough room on that side to slip the extended studs on the 2022. I was able to do front and rear without pulling any hubs off.

https://i.imgur.com/oUQpEbZ.jpg

What length studs did you use?

H&R 55MM studs

Damn, extra knuckle busty.