I can't (quickly) find a good picture, but if you look at the one below, notice the thin, round part above the hex faces. There's also a notch in the axle. You'll hit a screwdriver or something on that thin part of the nut in to the notch to keep it from backing out.

http://atkinsrotary.com/store/images/P/LA01-33-042B.jpg

Edit: This one shows someone taking one off, but you can see the notch and the nut crushed in to it. FYI, you really aren't supposed to reuse these crush-type axle nuts because of this. But I always have.

http://goo.gl/UqGsqE

One more edit: Do this.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../hubnut002.jpg

Thanks a lot, now i'm confident i can do the studs :)

Thanks @Fizz

Stupid me I was in a hurry to change over to my winter wheels/tires and accidentally cross threaded one of my rear studs and ruining the lug nut in the process.

Great to know that I don't need to remove the hub. I will be installing just another oem stud so I assume I should have plenty of room.

I just completed installing new studs on the rear. Now I have a check engine light and error code p0500. Something to do with vehicle speed sensor. I removed them and replaced them as instructed. I'm not sure why I am getting the error. Suggestions?

First time doing rear extended studs. So due to three New England winters, my car is pretty rusted up.

Attempt #1 ended up with not being able to get the stud assembly thing out.

Attempt #2, did some research and bought a slide hammer. The whole assembly was rusted together and instead of pulling it all out, I just got stud carrier thing (?) as pictured:

http://i.imgur.com/puc0dMV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/x5V5wpa.jpg

I was able to slide hammer it all back in... I was wondering if there were any repercussions to pulling that out? I think I probably should have regreased it but I didn't have any at the time.

Did a quick drive around and everything sounded fine. Anything I should note by pulling the whole bearing out?

http://i.imgur.com/0yXhEb1.jpg

I unscrewed, removed, replaced, and screwed in both sensors again. I disconnected the battery.

The error code came back up. I cleared the code. Powered off the car and back on and the code is still there.

Does it say which wheel sensor? I can't recall if the BRZ/FRS use a VSS or just base VSS off all 4 wheel sensors or a specific one.
@Books - that's normally a bad thing for the bearing. I'd replace that if it were me but at the very least keep a close watch on it.

I'm using torque on Android. It did not say which sensor.

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Check the connections for the sensors, you probably disconnected one on accident. Those should only trigger a code if the ecu isn't receiving signal at all.

Where is the connection? Is it just where the wire end and goes to the sensor in the hole?

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So I found the issue with the wheel speed sensor. See the two pictures below.
On the left side of each picture is the bad sensor and sensor hole. The right side is the good sensor.

When we were taking off the left wheel, the first one we attempted, we had a ton of difficutly removing the hub. My dad tried several ways of prying it off. Apparently he bent the thin silver metal ring/shield on the axle. You can see it is bent in the bottom left picture. The right side shows the same piece towards the back of the hole and not bent.

The left sensor got chewed up by the rotating bent silver ring. So now it looks like I need a new sensor and to get that piece straightened out.

Thanks for the follow up, you're sure to help tons of people with a similar issue in the future. Good luck getting it fixed.

I cant get the rotor off. I will try bolts in the 2 holes in the rotor tomorrow. Are they M7 x 1.0?
Does this mean I will also have trouble with the hub?

I am installing APR studs front and rear.

you removing the rear rotor?

Yes, I is an M8. I made one by running a suitable screw through an M8 die. Screwed it in and off popped the rotor. Am now trying to get the nut off the 1/2 shaft. So far all of my 220 lb at the end of a 2.5 ft breaker bar won't shift it


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Getting the rotor back on will be harder, when you remove the rear rotor you need to loosen the brake shoes adjuster to relieve the tension against the drum. You need to loosen the shoes before putting the rotor back on. There is an adjuster hole on the surface of the rotor hub area. For the hub nut make sure you release the hub nut stake and use a 3/4" breaker bar or 1/2".

http://fastcraft.biz/blog/wp-content...3/02/D0006.jpg

Sucess on one side. The answer to the stuck axel nut was to borrow a compressor and impact driver. For the other side I will remove the brake shoes getting the hub back on was difficult, the shoes were in the way.

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ARP stud quality problem

I am so mad right now... I have finished my rear wheels and right when it comes to mount the wheels back on ... It seems that i have a full set of APR stud with quality defect.

If I use a simple lug nut (short cheap one) they mount 'ok', but if I use the longer Muteki models, I get a huge amount of resistance when they are 3/4 in.

The Muteki screw in like butter on the other wheel, but on that set, there seem to be a problem with the screw steps or something.


Did anybody ever had this problem ?? I am so bummer I'm gonna have to redo the whole thing again.


FYI, I removed the hub fully and installed with a press, so they where in perfect condition, none of the yellow coating was removed or dinged.

Now I tried to screw the Muteki nuts and the yellow coating is coming off with some metal shaving, so clearly something is wrong on my APR stud set... and all the studs on this set have the same problem

I double checked and they are the same part number, ordered on amazon.com and all

:(

I am crying !!


UPDATE ...Seems like ARP is aware of some bad stud batch... be carefull, test the studs with long open ended nuts BEFORE installing !!

More than likely your aftermarket lugnuts are the problem.

I have Muteki open ended lugnuts and they work great with my APR

I had same problem.. it was my lugnuts not the studs

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The weird thing is that I tired the same lug nuts on the other APR stud sets and they screwed themselves in all the way with my fingers...

I am in contact with APR, we'll see what they say. I'll report back.

sucks, it is such a pain to remove the rear studs :S

Isnt that terrible for your bearing? How's it holding up so far? Do you remember what size slide hammer you used??

Trying to picture it in my head.. but i guess the axle nut would hold everything in place anyways rights?

I gave up on my rear studs. Tried using a jaw puller and ended up breaking that. I think Ill just bring it to the shop when it gets a bit warmer.

I've been monitoring it, but so far no issues. I seem to have pulled everything in one piece so it all kinda slid back into place. It's too cold to fix anything myself at this point... Especially after this weekends snow storms. And yes, the axle nut should be holding everything in place.

I used the OTC slide hammer (9 way?) off of amazon (should be the first one). I had another backup plan (after numerous youtubing and googling) to get the axle out and hammer on the hub and bearing to brute force it out, but thankfully didn't have to resort to that.

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Thanks for all of the useful info in this thread.

I wanted to report on my rear install from today.

2 important findings:
- Axle nut is a hobag. The crimp was folded over too much for any amount of screwdriver/punch action to solve. Electric impact to the rescue!

- Hub rusted to knuckle. No amount of PB Blaster and hammering worked. Probably damaged something from the hour of frustrated hammering. PB + a couple heavy hits with a hammer + 3-jaw puller ([ame="http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Mechanical-Grip-O-Matic-Puller-Reversible/dp/B0002SRGCU"]LINK to mine[/ame]) worked!

Will report back if there are ABS or other issues (I didn't remove mine). The motion of the 3-jaw puller cleared the area where the sensor lives... so it didn't seem necessary.

I totally agree with you about the axle nut being punched in too flat. I used a flat head and basically hammered and cut a slit in it and finally folded it up. That was the most troublesome and time consuming piece. Everything else worked easy so thank god!

@Dave-ROR
I had to replace a front hub, and it looks like the bolts holding the hub to the knuckle have red loctite or similar on them so I put some on just to be safe.

I wanted to follow up on my stud problem

check out this video, I am not the only one...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnwnb8myWKo"]ARP Wheel Stud Problems with Lug Nuts ---- Scion FRS - YouTube[/ame]

be careful a lot of bad ARP studs are on the shelves right now...
make sure you triple check with long open ended nuts before mounting the studs... ask me how I know ....

Same here - I have 4 sets, purchased from Amazon, LOT #116509. 8-10 threads down, full stop. Have you had any luck with ARP @philooo? I'm calling Monday morning.

@bspec, ARP was very dismissive when I called them last month, blaming the nuts, but since then, and especially after this video I think that they realized they had a real problem and they sent me replacement items.

I was annoyed at first that they were blaming me for not mounting the stud properly. I actually had given up and bought short nuts instead.

Now I am receiving the new parts, I'll have to reinstall one set of studs, lucky this time around they are front one.

So for me I received 2 bad set of studs out of 5 ordered, all on amazon.com

Thanks @philooo. Can you share the lot numbers for your good and bad sets?

Ugh I have some ARP studs that were made in aug 15 for the graffiti car.. sitting in the garage but the lug nuts are at the shop with the car. Guess I'll head over to the shop today to grab a lug nut to test with since I planned on dropping off the hubs/bearings to get the press work done tomorrow (no access to my press currently).

Spoke to Zach at ARP this morning. He sent out 4 replacement sets and return label for the bad sets, no questions asked. He offered background about the die recalibration and long wheel nuts as well. The entire conversation lasted ~2min.

I should have the new sets tomorrow.

For those who have mounted bad ARP studs, it may be tough to get them removed as usual extractor are rather short, I did my front yesterday and I was lucky enough to find 2 extractor that 'work together'. See below:

This extractor was clearly too short...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6zy0w103mp...0.46.jpg?raw=1

But luckily I had another extractor that I was able to place on top and it works perfectly
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ia1xcpt5n6...0.23.jpg?raw=1


I just hope that they will "stick" as the hub are not designed to change studs often. Time will tell.

Received replacement sets from ARP <24hrs after call. 4 perfect sets, machined and packaged in Feb'16, lot number in the 120K range.

Is this is conclusively saying the ARP studs were bad then, and the root cause is the die was not calibrated correctly or root cause is unknown?

That sucks. Can't tell you how many times I've taken my wheels on and off. The ARP studs are nothing short than amazing! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0d036aaf93.jpg

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The studs were bad. Die mis-calibration was root cause. Conclusively.

ARP should issue a recall then

Yeah. So, like, are ALL the old studs bad? I haven't had any problems with mine yet. Bought ~June 2013.