Any tutorials or maybe someone from here can tell me how to remove the rear hubs

Not sure about the rear, but on the front, the bearing will "bear" the brunt of each blow delivered to each of the 5 studs. Not a good thing, IMO.

Just did both axles with a ball joint separator. Couldn't be easier. Thanks @Dave-ROR and @bpracer

You don't have to remove the 4 14mm bolts. Just whack out the hub and grease that baby up

So now I ordered ARP extended studs, they are supposed to have a .565 (14.351mm) knurl, whereas stock is allegedly just (14.35mm? -Need to verify oem). Ichiba's have to be 14.30-14.32mm.

As for the C-Clamp (which is still doable in a pinch), I ditched the idea when I came across a really nice DIY thread on a different website, mentioning a Harbor Freight ball joint separator tool. It features a removable pin/fulcrum and higher holes to increase the range to accommodate much longer studs. It works FLAWLESSLY for removing studs without removing the hub, and no bearing damage!! :thumbup:

http://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart...tor-99849.html

What kind of spacers are you supposed to run with extended studs? All i find are spacers with studs already built in.

I have 20mm spacers that came with no studs up front. Any larger and they only come with studs, trust me I made many phone calls to find that out.

I just used the 25mm with studs and pressed out the studs that came in the spacer. Works great and no issues after the 8k miles I have driven since install.

This is who I bought from. Excellent quality and the can be BOTH Hub Centric and Wheel Centric for a perfect fit. Highly recommend them. They can make a spacer in ANY size you need as well.

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/wheel_spacers.html

I am using ARP studs with these.

i dont have a press. whats the easiest alternative to a press?
@Dave-ROR hows the ball joint seperator to complete this?

Just use a vice or something that can support the assembly while not pounding the shit out of the hub.

i had good success with just pounding them back in with a hammer and extension (hammer head is too big to pound them in directly, will hit the hub almost assuredly)

Something like this would work too. They are just using a long socket over the stud.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments...095-jpg.87596/


This is kinda how i got mine out and in (reverse the process)

http://www.redpepperracing.com/galle...ntknockout.JPG

Who has ever had a bearing fail because they hammered out wheel studs?

Who knows, but i'm sure not going to risk it. I'm sure it's rare to hear someone say they hammered them and they immediately failed.

but, who knows in 20k or more how much quicker they will fail. I guess i'd rather not deal with that.

you stated earlier that you hammered them out yourselves but are now stating that you are not going to risk bearing failure by hammering them out?

I hammered them out the proper way, by supporting the hub so when I hammered, i did not damage the bearing.

See the above images i posted, if you do that and support the hub by the plate that holds the studs, you will not risk damaging the bearing.

ohh ok thank you for clearing that up. One last question. What are you supposed to attach the blue thing to? The floor?

The vice? A workbench, typically. Or anything solid you can bolt it to.

Used this tool to remove the studs:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Works great, no complaints.

Used this tool to install the studs:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer: Automotive[/ame]

It's cheaper and more portable than a shop press and safer than a stack of washers. It has a bearing on the side that faces the hub so that it rotates during install. I did notice
that a small area of the gold coating on the ARP studs was worn off after install, but the threads look good.

Is it possible to get the brakes off without a power tool? Trying to get them off by hand but the socket doesn't want to buldge

Absolutely. Use a breaker bar

The hub is just a hole, it's not "threaded" so can't be stripped. The knurl holds it in. Too small and it will spin simply because it's too small.

This thread somewhere earlier it was described with pics...

I'm not a fan of hammering them just because it's not that hard to pull them and do it "right" but I'd be surprised at any noticeable lifespan change from hammering them honestly.


Heat from track use will kill them far more quickly and I still get 10s of thousands of miles out of wheel bearings on the race car and dedicated track car. Granted they aren't a BRZ/FRS but still.

Already took care of it thanks

Just thought I'd add my experiences from my install this weekend. I used washers and an impact and everthig went well. I hammered the fronts out aftet removing the brakes. For the rears, I hammered the studs out then removed the hub and pulled the studs in. I used some Ichibas in the front and ARPs in the rear. The ARPs are light years ahead of the Ichibas. The ARPs made my impact work to get set, while the Ichibas could almost be pushed in by hand. One of them wouldn't even seat, it just spun in the hub. Fortunately I put a nut on my stock studs when I hammered them out & they were still usable. I've already ordered ARPs for the front and this Ichiba crap will soon find solace in the trash bin.
I guess now I know why they were for sale. :/

Ha yeah man for this purpose I wouldn't touch anything but an OEM stud or the ARP studs.

Anyone tried this? http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...?RecordID=5105

Good? not good?

Yep, i have them. They are great. Hold up way better than stock studs.

I found the ARP online catalog. and the 100-7727 is the stander OEM replacement size.

Still running strong? I'm considering your identical setup after spinning a stud on my 20mm spacers and the shearing a stud on my read hub.

Do you do any tracking on them?

What kind of wheels you running? I want to use OEM wheel and lug nuts, but I'm worried the nubs at the end of the APR studs make that impossible.

Well they were running amazing up till I recently sold the car. I am sure they are still doing well for the new owner. I had no problems with the extended studs and they were a great upgrade considering I snapped one of the stock studs.

I was running OEM wheels with Muteki open ended extended lug nuts. I also had 20mm spacer up front as well as 25mm spacer in the rear that I had to press out the offset pair of studs since no one makes a 25mm+ slip on spacer.

I had traced the car once on that setup as well as daily driving and a fair share of spirited driving, so I think they did the job very well. I recommend it.

The install is also very simple and straight forward.

Damn, I guess you can't help with my little favor.

I know it's been said here numerous times that the closed OEM lug nuts don't work with the APR extended studs due to the nose cap on the APR studs.

But what happens when you put an OEM lug nut on? Does it just simply not fit and no thread catch? Or does the 5 mm nose go into the semicircle cap, and 6-7mm of threading catch, but it's just useless because it's so far out on the stud?

I ask because APR has released a new range of sizes for their extended studs stock, 1.950 UHL", and 2.545" UHL.

I haven't done the math yet because I have some measurements to take and I don't know the answer to my question posed here, but I hope to use the new sizes to create a setup where my spacers will push everything out far enough that the stock lug nuts will be able to torque down the wheel even with APR's weird extended noses.

Can anyone with APRs and OEM lugs thread one on and see how much of the APR stud disappears inside?

The OEM lugs take about 20 mm of stock stud and I wonder if it's about the same with the APR (albeit with 5mm less threading).

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help!

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

im having the worst effing problem removing the rear hub. that puppy is siezed. the fronts are cake but man those rears! and its a little past midnight... any idea what might help??? btw ive already looked through this whole thread and youtube and i got nothing...

I'm pretty proud of my ghetto setup for removing/inserting studs into the rear hubs. That's a t-slot clamp fixture with a grade 8 bolt. I didn't even end up bleeding!

http://i.imgur.com/kv27fDm.jpg

Yea sorry I can't really help you out there. haha

Best of luck though in your search.

Anyone have any tips for removing a rear hub thats stuck on?

If you are referring to the entire hub and bearing assembly: I had to wack it with a hammer on the brake hat to get it to come loose from the rust holding it.

If you are referring to the brake hat: I had to thread a bolt into the one of the two holes to get it to de-seat from the hub assembly.

Entire hub assembly. I hit the flange a good number of times but the thing is still stuck in there.:sigh:

are the nismo studs holding up? are you using it on track as well? thanks

Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but I thought I'd add some information that I couldn't find in my quest to add spacers with longer studs. The company that sent me my spacers didn't send me the right studs. When I asked they send me the right ones, they sent me longer studs, but they were still about 2 mm too short to get the correct length of engagement with the lug nuts.

When I went looking for correct studs, I couldn't find definitive information on the various stud lengths. So in the hopes of saving some of you what I went through, here are some measurements - all measured from the bottom of the head.

Stock wheel studs - 42 mm
Vorshlag "65 mm" - 59 mm
ARP studs - 76 mm (but thread length is about 68 mm)

In my case, I ended up using the Vorshlag studs in the front with a 15 mm spacer and the ARP studs in the rear with a 20 mm spacer. I am able to use closed end lug nuts all the way around, but only after I ground most of the unthreaded portion of the ARP studs down so they were about 70 mm total length.

Hope someone out there finds this helpful.

Hey guys, I'm a newbie and didn't really understand what "recrush axle nut edge" means, can anyone explain please? Thanks!