Wheel stud replacement
 

Where did you purchase the nismo stud?


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Got them from japanparts.com but I've seen frsport.com selling them as we'll.

Thanks


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Might be a stupid question or I missed it somewhere but, do I need to put spacers on with these apr studs? I don't want to put them in just for them to be too long and not tight. Thanks!

No, but you'll probably need open ended lugs.

Noooooo!!!!

What would be a reasonably size adapter(5x100->5x114.3) to use on the arp stud. I don't want the studs to hit the back of the wheel.


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That's it. Open ended lugs.

Don't use Ichiba studs, as others in this thread have posted.

My story posted here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=38

What size washer to place between open end lug nut and hub to push stud in?

APR studs with Muteki neo chrome lugs

Any size will do really, as long as the ID for the washer is bigger than the stud diameter. You'll need a few washers to space the lug nut out otherwise you'll bottom out on your socket as you tighten it. Do you have a cordless impact wrench? They're awesome for this job. Only needs a few zaps to pull and secure each stud.

This pile is only 2 years old, only saw one winter 23k miles. Cant get hub apart here. (Rear) Going to have to order new ones. Everything that should be simple isnt.

How are these studs treating you?
I want stronger studs without being super long.
I bought ARP studs and was gonna just suck it up with how long they were and brought them with new lugs to a shop and they said they couldn't install them bc they are too long in the rear.
Now I'm reading this thread in greater detail, I think I'd like the nismo ones bc I don't have spacers and don't think ill need them. Are these working out for you?

Too long for what? Do you not have open end lugs?

FWIW the extra length with the ARP studs is incredibly annoying when you don't have a cordless impact, very convenient when you do.

They said the ARP studs don't fit in the back. I've never done anything like this before so I didn't really know what to tell them other than ppl have done it. But they were convinced the studs wouldn't be able to fit to get them installed.

I didn't go to the dealer (yet at least) bc I figured it would be cheaper.

I use the Nismo ones, and they're perfect. Just slightly longer than stock, didn't have to remove the hub.

I dont have spacers either.

They cost more, but sounds like it's worth it. What are you using for lugs. I bought open ended ones for the long ARP ones, could use them anyway with nismo studs?

Sounds like they're trying to install them without removing the rear hubs.

You can get the ARP studs into the front hubs without removing them from the car (just pull the rotors), the rears you need to remove the hubs to fit the ARP studs in. You can get the stock studs out and back in with the hub still on the car, but longer ones won't fit without removing the hub.

Do they really? I could have sworn mine were cheaper.

I just bought some closed ended tuner lugs from Autozone so your open ended ones will work fine.

Where did you find them? This seems to be the going rate for them ($110 for ten)
http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-4222RS0...F-_p_7865.html

I got ARP ones on amazon prime for $37 per set of 5.

Mine are holding up fine. If those guys can't fit the ARP studs you should start looking for another mechanic. They need to remove the rear hubs in order to fit the long studs. I didn't want to mess about with all that work so I chose the Nismo ones.

Anyone else have a huge amount of trouble getting the front hubs off? I've been pretty liberal with the PB Blaster and have been beating on the 4 bolts from behind to get it to break free... nothing.

I really wish ARP would make standard size studs..

I had to take a hammer to my ratchet to break them. The rears were worse than the fronts for me, but then again i've only got 9k miles and it's never seen snow/salt and rarely rain.

I have used a breaker bar as well on some.

One of the lug nuts I got with my wheels trashed a stud, so it looks like I'll be replacing a stud if I dam find one tomorrow. Grrr. I figure the washer method will suffice for just one. I've used a similar idea to press bearing into my mountain bike's bottom bracket.

Just wondering: I am going to replace a front hub assembly (yay wheel bearing!).
I really just want to remove the rotor - will I need the caliper piston tool?
Will the pistons compress if I just slide the caliper/pads away from the rotor?

Thanks!

You have to remove the caliper bracket also (to get the rotor off).

If you are not changing the rotor or pads, you will not have to compress the piston. Just remove bottom caliper bolt, rotate caliper body up, remove pads, rotate caliper body down, put bolt in a few threads, remove caliper bracket bolts, suspect caliper from spring/shock/whatever (not the brake line) with wire, zip ties, bungie, etc, pull rotor off, remove abs sensor and then remove the hub.

Sorry for the thread revival, but does anyone know for sure if 25mm spacers fit on the ARP studs?

Stock studs are 40mm, ARP are 60mm = +20mm - 25mm spacer = 5mm diff. I've seen ppl put 3mm spacers on with no problem, those extra 2mm could be a thread or two of bite. This is close.

When I contacted H&R about extended studs + 25mm spacers they said they didn't develop a 25mm + extended stud product because their engineers didn't feel this was a good idea. Therefore they only offer 25mm bolt on spacers for the 86.

Very good info, thanks!
 

Small correction/addition: Dave said that he torqued the bolts holding the front caliper mounting to 59 ft-lbf and then for the rear brakes he used the same torque. I see in the service manual that the torque should be 59 ft-lbf for the front but for some reason it has only 49 ft-lbf for the rear.

Also the service manual says that the 2 bolts holding the caliper mounting, the 4 bolts holding the hub and the rear axle nut are all non-reusable parts :cry:. Usually most of us would reuse such bolts without thinking too much about them, but we already know that the OEM bolts holding the wheel in place aren't strong enough to withstand repeated use. So I don't feel good about reusing other bolts that Subaru says shouldn't be reused.
quirkparts.com has the P.N. 902170049 for the axle nut but so far I couldn't find the part number for the other non-reusable bolts :mad0260:

Florin

Anyone have any issues with Vorshlag studs?

I am going to be using 5mm spacers up front and 12mm in the back, Vorshlag seem to be perfect for this application.

I am running the ARP extended studs with a 20mm spacer up front and 25mm in the rear. Since they only sold 25mm as a bolt on option I pressed out the other set of studs and just used them as slip on spacers.

I have been running this setup for about 5-6 months now with no problems.

So I have to do the fronts this weekend. I plan to hammer the studs a bit while they are bolted to the hub (just to loosen them a tad-anyone know if that'll be possible/clearance behind??), then remove the hubs, and hammer them out the rest of the way. I also plan to use the washer method to put them back in.
I'll repost with washer size.

I have to do this for my car due to my 17x9 +45 rpf1s with 245/40 sport comps on eibach pro springs - I was told I could use 3mm spacers but that was a lie. I need 8-10mm.
I will be using ichiba as Ive had good experience in the past.

Just take the whole assembly out then hammer them out. To save your bearings, use something like a vice to hold the top of the hub to keep from hammering the bearing.

Also, i'm currently running 17x8 + 48 RP01's with 245/40s on coils with no rub - for reference. No spacers or anything.

http://www.licmotorsports.com/sites/...28473fg000.jpg

You wont know if the stud is fully mated this way.


and yea, its these eibach pro springs are stupid wide. Shoulda went with coils.
Will take your advice and save the bearing, don't wanna damage that lol.

Edit: Studs arrived, will be taking pictures of the other way of uninstalling/installing these this weekend - aka a Big C-Clamp that I use to depress calipers.

Just so we are clear, you do NOT have to remove the hubs to remove these studs (atleast for the FRONT). There IS enough room to wiggle one stud out at a time. If you're going install anything longer than 10mm+ stock however, you will have to remove the hub to install them.

The biggest issue with just hammering these out, is keeping the bearing in tact. So the DIY way around this is a C-Clamp with a socket on one end, or this style of tierod remover tool:

http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH..._WHESTU_01.JPG

I still have to do my rears. Fronts were cake with the hubs removed. At least with the rear, you know the work going into it before you start.

BUUUUT - ARP studs = worth it.

Where did you find that C clamp?

I removed the hub from my car today, only to discover that the studs supplied with my H&R 5mm spacers were only 2mm longer than the OEM studs! :(

So now I need to find studs around 5 - 10 mm longer than stock, and a method for removing the stock studs. As a test, I tried tapping the stock studs with a hammer, and they didn't budge! :eye bulge:

I just recently did one of my rears. I didn't remove the hub, just the caliper and rotor. Then grabbed a BFH and gave one good wack and out it came. Not too difficult to do.