I was able to easily press in the fronts, but the rears didn't have enough access so they were going in at an angle. Ended up with the ball joint tool method documented above instead.

Great thread, thank you Dave.

Some pics.. I don't have step by step pics but the steps are basically as follows:
1. Lift the vehicle and safely support it (jack stands or a lift).
2. Remove the rear wheels
3. Remove the axle nut with an impact gun (or hand tools if no impact gun is available). You will need a 32mm socket for this job. Also if you are using hand tools you will need someone to stand on the brakes if the e-brake won't hold the axle from turning.
4. Ensure the the e-brake is released.
5. Remove rear brake caliper assemble (caliper, bracket and pads can all be removed together) and hang out of the way, as seen here:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMAG0396.jpg
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMAG0377.jpg
6. Remove rotors (just pull on them).
7. Remove the speed sensor (10mm) on the top of the hub, the bolt is visible in this picture:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMAG0380.jpg
8. Remove the four bolts (14mm) bolts that hold the hub to the rear upright, three of the four are visible here:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMAG0381.jpg
9. Once all of them are removed you should be able to pull the hub assembly away from the car, push on the end of the axle to avoid the axle hanging up on the hub. 10. Once removed, use two of the bolts to secure the drum brake assembly to the car so that it doesn't hang:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMAG0384.jpg
11. Remove old lug studs using a press, or ball joint tool as shown above.
12. Install new studs using a press (if you have the right pieces, I couldn't use a press for the rears while I could for the fronts).
13. Reinstall is the opposite of the above. I used the same torque specs for the caliper bracket, hub bolts and speed sensor bolt that I used for the front. The axle nut is 136 ft/lbs.
14. Use a drift punch (or similar) to recrush the edge of the axle nut, or preferably, use a new axle nut and use the drift punch to crush the edge of the axle nut into the slot.

Pic of it finished, save for the brakes being re-installed:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/IMAG0403.jpg

how are oe failing, just snapping? on track? or with impact?

I remember some talk about snapping when torqued somewhere but can't find it. This thread is talking about spinning newly installed longer, cheap studs.

I installed them because I wanted 10mm spacers in the back. I'm using open lugnuts. I didn't want any track tech inspection to worry that there was not enough thread engagement, so longer ones went on the front as well.

I didn't like Ichiba's see thread below. ARP or Vorshlag are the way to go, ARP's are longer. I used Vorshlag open lugnuts as well, bulge nut with a reduced socket size. Not pretty, but effective.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...275#post622275

I just had to replace one rear stud that i effed up with my impact last week. Went pretty good, and once i removed the rotor, i just wedged something in between the hub and the plate behind it and about 4 hits the old stud was out. There is plenty of room if you're just replacing stock studs, as i did, that you don't *Have* to remove the hub from the car.

However, if I would have had the large socket to remove the axle nut, I would have gone that way.

How much longer over stock are the arp studs?

How big of a spacer can you run with the new wheel studs? I know people say 3-5mm max on the stock ones. I'm curious if something like a 15mm would be possible on the longer studs.

The ARPs should be good for 15mm. I have Vorschlag studs that are not as long and they are good for 12mm spacer.

I put 15mm worth of spacers on with short, closed end muteki lug nuts and the studs actually WENT THROUGH the tops of lugs lol.

I would say the ARP studs could take 25mm of spacer on it easy. I have Kics extended Neo Chro lugs on the way to replace the old ones.

Dave, what spacers did you end up getting and what was the front brake kit you were going to have with the stock wheels?

Wait, can you use 5mm spacers with the stock studs? For instance, the 5mm H&R Spacers are in the "DRS" series, and for DRS it says "This spacer is fitted between the wheel and hub, exhanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones. The wheels are then fitted to the hub/spacer with the existing wheel nuts." Is a 5mm spacer OK on our cars with the stock studs?

I did find this thread on the topic sorry: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13427

Can you? Probably, it will barely hold.

However, you will stretch the end threads out after a few hard turns, and risk losing a wheel.

3mm stock studs, or longer studs, or bolt-on spacer.

-alex

I've been using 5mm spacers on the rear now for a couple months. Still no issues. I remember seeing somebody who had used 5mm spacers on the track before and it was just fine. It might vary a bit from wheel to wheel due to the backspacing thickness, but on rpf1s (which I have) it hasn't had any issues.

Just did this DIY to my front. Great write up. I am ordering 20mm slip on spacers as well.

Just did this myself. I had to replace one stud the dealer cross threaded (used another oem stud). Thank you for the write up, it was a super easy job and took maybe an hour start to finish. I did not have to worry about the dimple when taking the axle nut off either, it came off just by loosening the nut.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Please add to DIY directory

@Dave-ROR @bpracer

Is the axel a standard thread, where counter-clockwise loosens the nut? Also I found the 1 1/4 socket a better fit than the 32mm, which is weird given our car is metric.

Have to say, putting longer studs to accommodate my 10mm spacers is a lot more work than I had anticipated. Thank you for the detailed write-ups, you've helped me immensely.

Forgot about this thread.

I've only run 10mm spacers, but there's a ton of stud leftover still. I'd guess 20? Haven't tried it though.

Cheap Project Kics 10mm. I run the Essex Sprint front brake kit. It's a track oriented setup. 10mm with those brakes barely clear the AP calipers. I run extended studs anyways, I've found them to be far more durable (ARPs at least) when changing wheels/tires after a track day when everything is still blazing hot. We use the ARPs on the race car also and remove wheels when the brakes are still 1,000+ degrees. Changing pads when they are hot enough to melt gloves sucks :)

Standard CCW to loosen and CW to tighten. 1/14" is 31.75MM so that makes sense. I actually use a 1 1/4" as well since I never remember to bring my 32mm with me.

For the front axle it's really easy, the rears are easy too, just more crap to deal with.

Same here! Thanks @Dave-ROR. Just did the AP Sprint on the fronts last weekend with the extended studs and used this walkthrough.

Haha, I already got them on the car. 15mm spacers and still needed extended lugs. It's all good. I imagine I could get another 10-15mm on there if needed but that pushing it a tad bit.

I'm using Ichiba 20mm slipon up front. Still plenty of room with the ARP studs for lugs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just did mine rear studs. Didn't have to remove the hub but I'm also not going with longer studs. Just have to rotate the hub and hammer the studs out.

I'm planning of upgrading my wheels studs to stronger one's since I remove the wheels quite often. Anyway I would like to know:

a) what is the length of the stock studs? (i already know it's M12x1.25)
b) does ARP have any shorter studs for Subaru?
c) will the Nismo 50/60mm (M12x1.25 with 14.3 knurl diameter) fit?

I want a stronger stud but don't like going too long (i.e. ARP 3"), and a number of Subaru guys have recommended going for Nismo studs as they come in shorter lengths.

Did one stud this past weekend as a shop overtorqued one of my Ray's lug nuts and I sheared off my wheel hub bolt inside the lugnut. Took a hammer, knocked the old one out. Bought a new one at auto zone for 2.69 and used the washer method to hand tighten the wheel stud in. I have a ghetto lugnut in place while I had to order an ENTIRE set of Ray's to just have replacements available.... Not too happy about that. This is why I need to pay attention to any alignment shop with air tools working on my car.

Fixed that for you.

I took my car to a non-dealership once (Goodyear tire store to get new tires mounted on stock wheels). Never again. They managed to shear off 6 studs with an air impact gun even after I explicitly told the service writer "NO AIR GUN! NO IMPACT GUN! Anything not a hand tool does not touch my car." and he agreed, but failed to tell the technician.

Edit: Forgot to add that I really appreciate threads like this. I used the information presented in here to fix the huge fuckup that Goodyear gave back to me.

Is it necessary to get a wheel alignment done if you remove the hubs for stud install?

Would you recommend putting thread lock on the hub/knuckle bolts? What about the axle nut?

I don't do any of that.. suspension bolts are not being touched for the hubs, and I just torque them. I don't recall the service manual suggesting that they have thread lock on any of them.

Axle nut gets staked in.

Ok I just ordered some Nismo 50mm studs as I wanted a stronger stud with just enough extension to run a 5mm spacer. Plus I am also hoping that I'll be able to fit these studs without removing the rear axle nut and hub...since they're only a tad longer than stock.

I'll update again once installed.

Finally got around to install my Nismo studs. The fronts were very easy, I just hammered the old one's out and used the nut and washer method to install new studs. As you can see they're only 10mm longer than stock studs, which is more than sufficient for spacers up to that thick. Even without the spacers on I was able to use my Leggdura 35mm nuts with space to spare....no need to run ugly open ended nuts.

I haven't done the rears yet because they wouldn't fit without removing the hub...and i was too lazy to do all that. Will do the rears next weekend.

Anyway these wheel studs are perfect for those who want something stronger than OEM but without having extra long studs sticking out.

http://s23.postimg.org/b1gc2458b/ima...ucmz/image.jpg
http://s23.postimg.org/n21s2ucmz/image.jpg

So I removed the rear hubs to install my Nismo studs....and after all that hard work I realised that the new stud will easily fit without removing the hubs. Doh!!!

So guys, if you're installing these Nismo 50mm studs on the rear, all you need to do is remove rotors and hammer out the old stud. Also used an impact wrench with washers to fit the new studs make installation a breeze. Few zaps and new studs are secured!

This isn't going my way. Sensor 10mm bolt is off. 4, 14mm bolts from behind are off. Big 32mm axle nut is off. Am I missing something? This damn thing is not coming off!

Did you remove the sensor or just the 10mm bolt? You have to remove the sensor as well. You may have to hammer the axle out to free the hub assembly from the drum assembly.

Yea, I had everything removed. It really needed some lovin. I ended up having to pry it off with a flathead all around. The dirt/gunk made it difficult, but that one is done at least!

Just had a wheel stud replaced last week on the back. Just so you guys know, you don't have to take off the axel nut to expose the studs. There are two threaded holes on the rotor/drum that you can use to insert a bolt that basically pushes it out evenly if you alternate one after another. Just don't know the size. I think it's the same for the front IIRC.

Yep.

I don't know the size either. I know I don't have a bolt that fits.

I was doing this with a member. What he did was used a larger washer and then a nut that threaded on. Then used an open end lug nut and used an impact drill and just tighten which pulled the stud. No need to remove the hub and the threads were perfect. This guy is smart :)

No need to remove hub if you're fitting stock or slightly longer than stock wheel studs. But if you're fitting the ARP studs for example, you'll definitely have to remove hub. But yes, tightening the studs with an impact wrench is waaay easier and faster than doing it manually.

I didn't have any problems fitting my ARP long studs with the hub in place.

Rear as well? How did u manage to wriggle it in with all the e-brake mechanism in the way? My nismo stud were only slightly longer than stock and it juuust squeezed in.

Oh, not rear. I only did the fronts.