They cost more, but sounds like it's worth it. What are you using for lugs. I bought open ended ones for the long ARP ones, could use them anyway with nismo studs?

Sounds like they're trying to install them without removing the rear hubs.

You can get the ARP studs into the front hubs without removing them from the car (just pull the rotors), the rears you need to remove the hubs to fit the ARP studs in. You can get the stock studs out and back in with the hub still on the car, but longer ones won't fit without removing the hub.

Do they really? I could have sworn mine were cheaper.

I just bought some closed ended tuner lugs from Autozone so your open ended ones will work fine.

Where did you find them? This seems to be the going rate for them ($110 for ten)
http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-4222RS0...F-_p_7865.html

I got ARP ones on amazon prime for $37 per set of 5.

Mine are holding up fine. If those guys can't fit the ARP studs you should start looking for another mechanic. They need to remove the rear hubs in order to fit the long studs. I didn't want to mess about with all that work so I chose the Nismo ones.

Anyone else have a huge amount of trouble getting the front hubs off? I've been pretty liberal with the PB Blaster and have been beating on the 4 bolts from behind to get it to break free... nothing.

I really wish ARP would make standard size studs..

I had to take a hammer to my ratchet to break them. The rears were worse than the fronts for me, but then again i've only got 9k miles and it's never seen snow/salt and rarely rain.

I have used a breaker bar as well on some.

One of the lug nuts I got with my wheels trashed a stud, so it looks like I'll be replacing a stud if I dam find one tomorrow. Grrr. I figure the washer method will suffice for just one. I've used a similar idea to press bearing into my mountain bike's bottom bracket.

Just wondering: I am going to replace a front hub assembly (yay wheel bearing!).
I really just want to remove the rotor - will I need the caliper piston tool?
Will the pistons compress if I just slide the caliper/pads away from the rotor?

Thanks!

You have to remove the caliper bracket also (to get the rotor off).

If you are not changing the rotor or pads, you will not have to compress the piston. Just remove bottom caliper bolt, rotate caliper body up, remove pads, rotate caliper body down, put bolt in a few threads, remove caliper bracket bolts, suspect caliper from spring/shock/whatever (not the brake line) with wire, zip ties, bungie, etc, pull rotor off, remove abs sensor and then remove the hub.

Sorry for the thread revival, but does anyone know for sure if 25mm spacers fit on the ARP studs?

Stock studs are 40mm, ARP are 60mm = +20mm - 25mm spacer = 5mm diff. I've seen ppl put 3mm spacers on with no problem, those extra 2mm could be a thread or two of bite. This is close.

When I contacted H&R about extended studs + 25mm spacers they said they didn't develop a 25mm + extended stud product because their engineers didn't feel this was a good idea. Therefore they only offer 25mm bolt on spacers for the 86.

Very good info, thanks!
 

Small correction/addition: Dave said that he torqued the bolts holding the front caliper mounting to 59 ft-lbf and then for the rear brakes he used the same torque. I see in the service manual that the torque should be 59 ft-lbf for the front but for some reason it has only 49 ft-lbf for the rear.

Also the service manual says that the 2 bolts holding the caliper mounting, the 4 bolts holding the hub and the rear axle nut are all non-reusable parts :cry:. Usually most of us would reuse such bolts without thinking too much about them, but we already know that the OEM bolts holding the wheel in place aren't strong enough to withstand repeated use. So I don't feel good about reusing other bolts that Subaru says shouldn't be reused.
quirkparts.com has the P.N. 902170049 for the axle nut but so far I couldn't find the part number for the other non-reusable bolts :mad0260:

Florin