That sucks. Can't tell you how many times I've taken my wheels on and off. The ARP studs are nothing short than amazing! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0d036aaf93.jpg

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The studs were bad. Die mis-calibration was root cause. Conclusively.

ARP should issue a recall then

Yeah. So, like, are ALL the old studs bad? I haven't had any problems with mine yet. Bought ~June 2013.

I'm sure they're not all bad. My bad lot was packaged in November of 2015, and it sounds like they corrected the die in January-early Feb timeframe, but I'm speculating a bit. As for a "start of bad run" date, idk..

Wouldn't hurt for a wholesale customer of ARP to ask the question. @CSG Mike @CSG David?

FYI, I emailed ARP to ask about the studs I bought in 2013:

so I had the same issue.. ordered from amazon... I have these lot numbers:

115566 packaged on 1/02/2015 -- ? (not sure if packaged date is right, hard to read)
112509 packaged on 9/1/2015
116509 packaged on 11/22/2015
117726 packaged on 12/16/2015

*120404 packaged on 2/04/2016*
these work, BARELY. I felt a lot of resistance towards the bottom of the stud even though the lug nut would never make it that far I'd rather have a perfect product than "good enough".

Hope this helps a few people out.

I just finished installing my ARP studs. Thanks for the pictures. They were very helpful.

My biggest struggle was separating the hub from the e-brake plate. I ended up threading the bolts into the hub and hammering them to break it free. It always makes me nervous when I use a hammer on my car, but I couldn't find any other way.

All my studs and nuts were a good fit without any binding.

Can you go into more detail on how you separated the hub from the ebrake plate?

Is there a good alternative to ARP?

I'm basically looking for a stud and nut solution with higher durability than the OEM?
Do not care about the extra length/racing things.

Tools I'll be needing for this?
Sizes?
Two of my studs broke off, I'm going to be swapping out.
Thank you.

From experience i learned that this is the worst way to do this, All you need to do is use the brake adjuster "star wheel" from the front of the hub, loosen and the drum rotor will slide right off.

@Dezoris, how did you solve this?

When I did it I had the same issue, one chicago winter about 25k miles. I definitely needed to get a hub puller. Rented it from autozone for about 50 bucks. returned it and got my 50 bucks back after about 10 minutes. it's worth it and save yourself the time for the rear. :)