Check the connections for the sensors, you probably disconnected one on accident. Those should only trigger a code if the ecu isn't receiving signal at all.

Where is the connection? Is it just where the wire end and goes to the sensor in the hole?

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So I found the issue with the wheel speed sensor. See the two pictures below.
On the left side of each picture is the bad sensor and sensor hole. The right side is the good sensor.

When we were taking off the left wheel, the first one we attempted, we had a ton of difficutly removing the hub. My dad tried several ways of prying it off. Apparently he bent the thin silver metal ring/shield on the axle. You can see it is bent in the bottom left picture. The right side shows the same piece towards the back of the hole and not bent.

The left sensor got chewed up by the rotating bent silver ring. So now it looks like I need a new sensor and to get that piece straightened out.

Thanks for the follow up, you're sure to help tons of people with a similar issue in the future. Good luck getting it fixed.

I cant get the rotor off. I will try bolts in the 2 holes in the rotor tomorrow. Are they M7 x 1.0?
Does this mean I will also have trouble with the hub?

I am installing APR studs front and rear.

you removing the rear rotor?

Yes, I is an M8. I made one by running a suitable screw through an M8 die. Screwed it in and off popped the rotor. Am now trying to get the nut off the 1/2 shaft. So far all of my 220 lb at the end of a 2.5 ft breaker bar won't shift it


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Getting the rotor back on will be harder, when you remove the rear rotor you need to loosen the brake shoes adjuster to relieve the tension against the drum. You need to loosen the shoes before putting the rotor back on. There is an adjuster hole on the surface of the rotor hub area. For the hub nut make sure you release the hub nut stake and use a 3/4" breaker bar or 1/2".

http://fastcraft.biz/blog/wp-content...3/02/D0006.jpg

Sucess on one side. The answer to the stuck axel nut was to borrow a compressor and impact driver. For the other side I will remove the brake shoes getting the hub back on was difficult, the shoes were in the way.

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ARP stud quality problem

I am so mad right now... I have finished my rear wheels and right when it comes to mount the wheels back on ... It seems that i have a full set of APR stud with quality defect.

If I use a simple lug nut (short cheap one) they mount 'ok', but if I use the longer Muteki models, I get a huge amount of resistance when they are 3/4 in.

The Muteki screw in like butter on the other wheel, but on that set, there seem to be a problem with the screw steps or something.


Did anybody ever had this problem ?? I am so bummer I'm gonna have to redo the whole thing again.


FYI, I removed the hub fully and installed with a press, so they where in perfect condition, none of the yellow coating was removed or dinged.

Now I tried to screw the Muteki nuts and the yellow coating is coming off with some metal shaving, so clearly something is wrong on my APR stud set... and all the studs on this set have the same problem

I double checked and they are the same part number, ordered on amazon.com and all

:(

I am crying !!


UPDATE ...Seems like ARP is aware of some bad stud batch... be carefull, test the studs with long open ended nuts BEFORE installing !!

More than likely your aftermarket lugnuts are the problem.

I have Muteki open ended lugnuts and they work great with my APR

I had same problem.. it was my lugnuts not the studs

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The weird thing is that I tired the same lug nuts on the other APR stud sets and they screwed themselves in all the way with my fingers...

I am in contact with APR, we'll see what they say. I'll report back.

sucks, it is such a pain to remove the rear studs :S