Anyone have any tips for removing a rear hub thats stuck on?

If you are referring to the entire hub and bearing assembly: I had to wack it with a hammer on the brake hat to get it to come loose from the rust holding it.

If you are referring to the brake hat: I had to thread a bolt into the one of the two holes to get it to de-seat from the hub assembly.

Entire hub assembly. I hit the flange a good number of times but the thing is still stuck in there.:sigh:

are the nismo studs holding up? are you using it on track as well? thanks

Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but I thought I'd add some information that I couldn't find in my quest to add spacers with longer studs. The company that sent me my spacers didn't send me the right studs. When I asked they send me the right ones, they sent me longer studs, but they were still about 2 mm too short to get the correct length of engagement with the lug nuts.

When I went looking for correct studs, I couldn't find definitive information on the various stud lengths. So in the hopes of saving some of you what I went through, here are some measurements - all measured from the bottom of the head.

Stock wheel studs - 42 mm
Vorshlag "65 mm" - 59 mm
ARP studs - 76 mm (but thread length is about 68 mm)

In my case, I ended up using the Vorshlag studs in the front with a 15 mm spacer and the ARP studs in the rear with a 20 mm spacer. I am able to use closed end lug nuts all the way around, but only after I ground most of the unthreaded portion of the ARP studs down so they were about 70 mm total length.

Hope someone out there finds this helpful.

Hey guys, I'm a newbie and didn't really understand what "recrush axle nut edge" means, can anyone explain please? Thanks!

I can't (quickly) find a good picture, but if you look at the one below, notice the thin, round part above the hex faces. There's also a notch in the axle. You'll hit a screwdriver or something on that thin part of the nut in to the notch to keep it from backing out.

http://atkinsrotary.com/store/images/P/LA01-33-042B.jpg

Edit: This one shows someone taking one off, but you can see the notch and the nut crushed in to it. FYI, you really aren't supposed to reuse these crush-type axle nuts because of this. But I always have.

http://goo.gl/UqGsqE

One more edit: Do this.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../hubnut002.jpg

Thanks a lot, now i'm confident i can do the studs :)

Thanks @Fizz

Stupid me I was in a hurry to change over to my winter wheels/tires and accidentally cross threaded one of my rear studs and ruining the lug nut in the process.

Great to know that I don't need to remove the hub. I will be installing just another oem stud so I assume I should have plenty of room.

I just completed installing new studs on the rear. Now I have a check engine light and error code p0500. Something to do with vehicle speed sensor. I removed them and replaced them as instructed. I'm not sure why I am getting the error. Suggestions?

First time doing rear extended studs. So due to three New England winters, my car is pretty rusted up.

Attempt #1 ended up with not being able to get the stud assembly thing out.

Attempt #2, did some research and bought a slide hammer. The whole assembly was rusted together and instead of pulling it all out, I just got stud carrier thing (?) as pictured:

http://i.imgur.com/puc0dMV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/x5V5wpa.jpg

I was able to slide hammer it all back in... I was wondering if there were any repercussions to pulling that out? I think I probably should have regreased it but I didn't have any at the time.

Did a quick drive around and everything sounded fine. Anything I should note by pulling the whole bearing out?

http://i.imgur.com/0yXhEb1.jpg

I unscrewed, removed, replaced, and screwed in both sensors again. I disconnected the battery.

The error code came back up. I cleared the code. Powered off the car and back on and the code is still there.

Does it say which wheel sensor? I can't recall if the BRZ/FRS use a VSS or just base VSS off all 4 wheel sensors or a specific one.
@Books - that's normally a bad thing for the bearing. I'd replace that if it were me but at the very least keep a close watch on it.

I'm using torque on Android. It did not say which sensor.

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