I can second the ease of adjustment on the Agency Power arms. The alignment guy said it was one of the easiest aftermarket control arms to adjust. The Cusco ones look like hell to adjust.

There's a very good reason to have the adjustment as close to the subframe mount as possible. Moving it farther out greatly increases the bending load at the threaded connection, which is something you usually want to avoid.

agree with Jamal. Problem with the Agency power arms is that the adjustment ease unfortunately introduces an easy point of failure for the arm. I don't know if they have stress tested for this, but there is not point in having a beefy arm if you are going to have a break point in it.

The AP design is plenty strong, in fact I think the AP setup and all of the others are a little over engineered especially when comparing any of them to the stock arm. The threaded section on the AP unit is solid steel 3/4" in diameter at its thinnest point as it tapers to a full 1" hex for adjustment. The Aluminum arm that it threads into is solid 2"x3". On top of how beefy the arm is, is the fact that most of the stresses on the lower control arm are at the Coilover mounting point and the hub carrier. To break a lower control arm you would have to have a catastrophic failure of the upper control arm (as in no longer there) which would probably cause the front link to snap, and even then you would destroy your coilover as well before the lower control arm would fail.

I guess if you whacked it hard enough with a sledgehammer that would break it...I would draw a diagram explaining the forces on our suspension, but in the end all I really need to say is that as long as the hub carrier and coilover have sturdy mounting points and the over all structure is rigid the lower control arm will serve its purpose.

I will say this though the AP lower control arms are pretty heavy compared to the stock arms...maybe I'll pull them off this weekend and measure them and take a few detailed pics of how it all mounts up.

Also...AP arms are red, all other brands are not.

i got cusco arms. i know people running cusco and GT spec and have yet to fail. if you see snow or salt just make sure to slap some anti-seize on them and power wash once in a while.

I wish these companies would anodize in different colors so I actually had a choice, some of us prefer form and function. I am trying really hard to keep the general color scheme on my Whiteout FR-S, white, black, red, and ploished metal, but it's hard as hell. I understand brand recognition, but i cant be the only person who actually weighs how a certain piece will disrupt my OCDness because it's not the right color.

Powdercoat

Rattle can?

Any feedbacks on DME?

We are currently running the SPC rear arms on our BRZ. So far we have been very happy with them.

From an adjustment stand point these are one of the easier arms to use.

The inner bushings are stiffer than stock.

As far as looks go these are coated black and look more stock than any of the other options out there.

SPCs is what I plan to try on my car. I like that adjustment/tightening the most as its looks to be one of the most durable while easy to adjust.