Review: AIRAID vs aFe Takeda - Battle of the Roto-Mold
 

Good evening folks. As some of you may already know, I've been planning to do this comparison for a while now. I'm a personal fan of molded plastic intakes both for their factory look, excellent air flow, and just the overall ability to make the intake with practically any feature you want, without ugly welds.

The BRZ/FR-S/GT-86 currently has two options for this style of intake, and both are fairly new to market. AIRAID released their unit in August, while aFe Takeda released their unit just a couple weeks ago. I've had the opportunity to really put each through it's paces and have logged plenty of miles/hours.

I'm separating this review out into different sections, with my experiences/opinion of each. The sections covered will be Packaging, Build Quality/Design, Installation, Appearance, and Drivability/Power.

So let's get to it.

Packaging

AIRAID

http://imageshack.us/a/img571/9954/airaidbox.jpg

The AIRAID unit arrives in a large squarish box. AIRAID opts for bubble wrap for it's "stuffing". The box is sturdy and the intake arrived unscathed. The box didn't seem to pass the cat test though, but that's ok... because bubble wrap!

Because I was a pre-order for AIRAID, they included a 2nd lid option, which was cool. I would have preferred a blank plate to do my own custom engraving, but the fact they included a second option at all was great. There were no missing parts.

http://imageshack.us/a/img72/6105/airaidparts.jpg

aFe Takeda

http://imageshack.us/a/img839/8725/afebox.jpg

The aFe Takeda also shipped in a single box, slightly larger than the AIRAID. It too, was sturdy and the unit arrived unscathed. The choice of packaging here was thick brown paper. This box DID pass the cat test, as you can see.

http://imageshack.us/a/img684/4066/afeparts.jpg

Unpacking yielded a surprise from Takeda. They included a filter recharge kit. I'm not sure if AIRAID does the same for their oil filters (I ordered the dry from them). It was a pleasant surprise to say the least. There were no missing parts.

WINNER: Tie Both arrived in perfect condition and included cool surprises.

Build Quality/Design

AIRAID

The AIRAID is made of heavy duty molded plastic. The plastic is sufficiently thick. For clamping, is uses regular screw time steel clamps. It is very sturdy and I have no worries about any of the plastic being compromised under any use. The couplers are of higher quality and reinforced. The mouth doesn't quite reach the portal to the front bumper. There is a good 1-2 inches of gap space in there. This results in considerably hotter intake temps while driving and throughout the rev range when compared to the aFe. However, the larger filter box helps curb the temperature rise while idling above 2.5 minutes.

http://imageshack.us/a/img803/6926/1010608.jpg

Here is a graph showing the idle temp climb over a period of 5 minutes. It compares the delta (difference between IAT and ambient), rather than raw temps, to get a more accurate idea of how heat soak will affect the IAT's at idle. Since the aFe is a true CAI, it registers a lower delta up until about 2.5 minutes. Since the AIRAID has a larger filter box, it's temperature progression is less aggressive than the aFe unit; it doesn't heat soak as fast.

http://imageshack.us/a/img189/5552/a...edeltaidle.jpg

The AIRAID incorporates a velocity stack at the filter mouth and a kinda/sorta one at the box mouth which is cool. It flows slightly more than stock, as you will see by my graph of MAF readings.

http://imageshack.us/a/img705/8302/a...ockairflow.jpg

The AIRAID has reported issues of the lid screws backing out. I can confirm this happening to me. If you decide to buy the AIRAID, make sure you USE LOCKTITE. The instructions don't call for this, but I would hate to see what would happen with a loose lid flopping around an engine bay. AIRAID was very quick to send me replacement screws for the ones that vibrated out. Also, AIRAID opts for using a double threaded rubber mount (pictured below). I HATE these, and you should too. They oxidize easily, making it almost impossible to remove from the screw hole once it's rusted. More often then not, the shaft will snap off inside the screw hole. Also, the AIRAID MAFS mounting is a bit disappointing. It comes with tiny little white plastic washers to gain the appropriate spacing on the MAF sensor. Honestly, how hard would it have been to incorporate this into to the mold? aFe Takeda did it....

http://imageshack.us/a/img825/9007/16447.jpg

^ Evil.

aFe Takeda

The aFe Takeda system is also made of heavy duty molded plastic. It, too, is sufficiently thick. Also, screw type steel clamps provide your clamping power. It takes a more simplistic design approach. There aren't any prominent possible points of failure. It's actually quite a brilliant design and I applaud them for it. They have the same kinda/sorta velocity stack at the mouth of the filter chamber. Also, the filter enclosure "snout" extends a bit further than the AIRAID unit; almost to the foam of the radatior support. This makes the chance of sucking in hot radiator/engine air a lot less than the AIRAID.

http://imageshack.us/a/img10/2563/afemouth.jpg

I dislike where they chose to locate their MAF mount. It's right after a swooping 90 degree bend. The engineer in me screams that this would cause inaccurate MAF readings, and the fuel trim values being reported by the ECU indicate that, but somehow, drivability wasn't an issue. More on that later. Also, I would say their design of the PCV port could be improved upon. They supply a grommet to use in the pipe. The stock elbow just slips inside the grommet. I liked AIRAIDS screw-on-elbow design a bit better. It creates a better seal and doesn't interrupt airflow, but I highly doubt that has any effect on overall performance. I also didn't like the cut-your-own-noise-pipe. They include the couplers and clamps to add it, but why not just use the same method AIRAID does, and include a precut one with a plug?

Temperature wise, aFe is a much "cooler" intake. Both intakes are branded as CAI's, while I'd technically consider the AIRAID as a LWAI or Luke Warm Air Intake. As you'll see by my graph of a full 3rd gear pull, the aFe registers a much lower temperature delta (the difference between the IAT and ambient temp), which is compounded by the fact that AIRAID locates the sensor in the filter box, where the air would most certainly be the coolest. aFe locates the sensor on the final stretch of piping right before the throttle body.

http://imageshack.us/a/img849/303/ai...lta3rdgear.jpg

WINNER: aFe Takeda It's just a much better design with less possible points of failure.

Installation

AIRAID

The installation of the AIRAID unit wasn't necessarily difficult, but it was a chore. The unit LOVES screws and washers. The easiest way I've discovered to install this is as follows:

1. Screw in the PCV elbow, make sure it's tight and facing the throttle body side of the tube.
2. Install the front filter chamber bracket. This uses an hex screw and washer with the little bracket. Take a rubber mount from the stock intake and install it on the bracket here.
3. Install the MAFS into the MAF body with the velocity stack. Make sure you use the white plastic spacers. And for the love of God, did they need to use hex based screws here? What's wrong wth simple philips or flat head? Seriously...
4. Screw in the threaded rubber spacer of doom in the car.
5. Mount the filter chamber box in the car, don't tighten.
6. Move the clip on the MAFS wiring and push the grommet around the wire.
7. Feed the MAFS wiring harness into the filter chamber. Adjust the grommet to the chamber and clip the harness into the sensor.
8. Mount the MAFS velocity stack body to the filter chamber with the provided hex screws and washers.
9. Install the tube
10. Tighten the filter box mounting points. Tighten the clamps.
11. Install the filter chamber lid.

... and that's the EASY way.

aFe Takeda

Installation of the aFe Takeda was refreshingly easy. Here are the steps for it:

1. Install two of the stock rubber filter housing mounts onto the filter chamber.
2. Secure the chamber to the car.
3. Slip the filter into the chamber, using the largest clamp to secure it.
4. Install the tube from filter to throttle body, clamp down.
5. Install the MAFS in the mount with the flat head screws.
6. Pop the PCV elbow into the grommet.

Very. Simple. Didn't even need to look at the instructions.

WINNER: aFe Takeda By a landslide.

Appearance

AIRAID

The AIRAID unit is black. It features a rectangular filter chamber with a black anodized lid (with an AIRAID logo engraving). On the pipe, there is a recess in which a decent size yellow elliptical AIRAID logo sits. I received this unit first and thought it was a pretty decent looking intake system. You will definitely know who manufacturers it. After installation is complete, you will see the mounting screws used to mount the MAFS velocity stack piece inside the filter chamber.

http://imageshack.us/a/img703/4384/a...ernateview.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img696/1620/airaidtopview.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img811/659/airaidsideview.jpg

aFe Takeda

The Takeda unit is really, really nice looking. It's got a very smooth and streamlined appearance. It might even pass as stock to the untrained eye. There are no visible screws screws, other than used on the MAFS, because it uses none. Just a smallish rectangular logo on the filter chamber, and the word "Momentum" on the chamber snout. I like it, a lot.

http://imageshack.us/a/img823/7898/afetopview.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img571/3363/afeangleview.jpg

WINNER: aFe Takeda Appearance is a matter of opinion, and I'm sure there will be people on this thread screaming about how much they love the AIRAID look. I'm more into sleek, smooth, and streamlined appearance. Rock what ever you like.

Drivability/Power

AIRAID

I'm going to try to be as fair as possible with this comparison, given my well documented experiences with the AIRAID unit. It's well known that I had quite a few problems using the AIRAID unit where I live. I live in a well populated area, and do a lot of stop and go, city driving. On the AIRAID unit and a STOCK TUNE ECU, city driving was a pain in the ass. I would get severe bogging, jerking, sputtering, and loss of power. I posted youtube videos and ECU data logs of these in the bogging thread if you want an example. Now, highway driving was a blast. The car ran well above 3500 RPM. The revs climbed smoothly torque was available. I ended up being the first person to return the unit because of these issues.

As far as power is concerned. I didn't keep the AIRAID unit long enough to run a dyno. Visconti has dynoed one though and reported that it didn't make much, if any power. I went with @Sony when he dynoed his Perrin exhaust and AIRAID intake. He made 8 whp combined, most of which I'd assume came from the exhaust.

NOTE: @Visconti has since fixed these issues for customers of his tunes. So if you have a Visconti tune, you most likely won't experience any of these issues.

aFe Takeda

I'll start off by saying, this intake had NO issues on the stock tune in my car. It's really quite odd, because the MAFS placement caused abnormal numbers in the ECU fuel trim adjustment values. The ECU clearly compensated for the drastic change in MAFS environment because it's been smooth from day one. The butt dyno didn't register much of a difference, and neither did a real dyno. Following are 3 scenarios (Stock Tune - Stock vs Takeda, STG1 93 Tune - Stock vs Takeda, and STG1 e85 Tune - Stock vs Takeda). As you can see in the results, the intake really didn't add much until much higher than stock power levels. The e85 tune had the most consistent gains out of the three scenarios.

http://imageshack.us/a/img191/3290/s...ckintakevs.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img607/8183/s...ntakevsstg.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img835/5899/e...tockintake.jpg


WINNER: aFe Takeda I understand there are a TON of people out there with no issue on the AIRAID unit, but I also haven't seen any third party dynos showing it making any power either. Couple this with John's experience of not making any power with it, and the consistent gains of the Takeda on e85, and I'll have to give it the nod. If the issues can happen to me, they can happen to you.

Conclusion

It all comes down to what you want out of an intake. If you're main concern is the power gains, I wouldn't suggest ANY intake on the market until they can be proven to actually make power on pump gas. Of course if you run e85 regularly, I'm going to have to suggest the Takeda. It was the difference maker between me making 193-195whp and coming within a C hair of 200whp. I'm still convinced it WILL make 200whp on a nice cool run.

If you're main concern is looks, I'll still give the nod to Takeda, but it really comes down to your personal preference.

As far as sound is concerned. The AIRAID sounds pretty badass from the passenger seat. I didn't cut my Takeda, because I deleted the sound tube since my exhaust overpowers it anyway.

So there's my review, take from it what you will. :)

i'm glad i ordered the one that passed the cat test :)

do you know if the stg1 tune is the generic one or if it was tweaked specifically for the takeda?

Well, thanks to the dyno day John and I did, he now has STG1 tunes adjusted for this intake.

Di you know when those will be released? I have had the aFe on for about 100 miles on his stg1 93 tune. Am I risking anything? Should I ecu reset? Or has it already adjusted by now?

I don't think you have too much to worry about. Here is a dyno of his off the shelf 1.06b2 93 tune with the AFE. Nothing looks overbearingly concerning. One little lean patch where it comes up to 13.7 but the high RPM looks pretty safe.

If there are no significant gains with an aftermarket intake then I guess is doesn't matter what intake you choose. Basically it's going to come down to personal preference. I also like the look of the Takeda, however it seems to me that Airaid did do some homework on hiding the sensor in the airbox vs Takeda on top of the tube. Makes for a cleaner look, not to mention the flexibility of choosing between black or polished lid also makes a for a custom look. As much as I like the look of the Takeda, the Airaid is just a much cleaner look to me all around. And if nothing else, it sounds great, as I'm sure does the Takeda

Nice review ;)

The MAFS location on the AIRAID is what also makes much more of a chore to install. I guess it's a give and take at that point. You get to hide the sensor, but sacrifice simplicity and ease of install. That and then there are screws every where visible to the outside. 4 on top, and 3 on the side. But that's the power of personal opinion... rock on! :party0030:

But yea, unless you're making higher power, an intake almost isn't worth it. Removing the snorkel makes gains in and of itself, so I have no doubt that manufacturers compared a snorkel stock system to a snorkel-less version of their system and that's why they show significant gains. That said, I wouldn't remove the snorkel on the stock system, because then you're just sucking in hot air and you'll lose power.

Agreed, the sensor install was a little frustrating on the Airaid for sure, but I think it looks better in the end. One trade-off for another I guess

Edit: A positive note with the Takeda that I noticed is the shape of the airbox vs the Airaid, if you happen get water under the hood on top of the airbox, I can see where it would run right off vs the flat box on the Airaid ;)

I don't mind having the sensor exposed, personally. Plus I like not having to worry about stretching the wire or having it start rubbing against the belt.

Maybe Takeda should package a better looking sensor cover so it looks more streamlined like the rest of the intake LOL

Your right! It does come close to the belt, definitely some caution required when securing the wire after install to the airbox. Much more simplified install on the Takeda for sure

Forgot to ask, what was the cost ratio between the two intakes as I'm sure that will play a factor with most buyers

Thanks

Hard to tell, since both are at introductory pricing right now. The plan was to wait until full retail settled before comparing that.

Here are some interesting results. I compared two data logs. Both were conducted on the same stretch of road in 3rd gear. Same mods other than the intake. The unit of measure is g/s.

To be fair then, what was the price point at which you purchased both, taking into account any introductory pricing breaks, groupbuys, sales, rebates, shipping, etc?