Winter is coming...
 

Oh Sean Bean, why must your character die in every movie/show I like that you're in.. :(

Anyway, as fall starts, I'm sure most of us in the northern states and Canada are also looking ahead to winter and the dilemma of what to do with our cars.

This is the first car that I'd like to not drive in the winter thanks to the terrible salty roads around here that will eat the car up as well as the rust that will eventually follow years down the road. I'd like to put it away, but my concern is how to do it properly so when spring comes there isn't any problems. Does anyone have any tips/suggestions on how to do it? Other then filling the tank up fully and adding stabilizer to the fuel.

Of course, I could just move south, then I'll be able to drive year round without a problem! ;)

My tip is to go seach the miata forums, theyve been doing it for decades.

You can still drive it on occasion, just be sure and wash it, rinse the under carriage, ect. Youll want to change the oil every 3-5 months even if you dont put any miles on it.

just drive few occasionally when salty road is cleared up.
like a once a week? 1 mile drive?

While I will avoid driving in the snow whenever possible, 90% of the time the roads are clear in the winter, usually within a few hours of a storm ending. I'll just be sure to get a car wash frequently.

Thanks for the tip! I'll go check and see what I can find. :thumbsup:

:bellyroll: Funny thing is, I was thinking of this same exact picture when I made this thread. :D

I was talking to a coworker today suggests against that. Then again, he was talking about starting it for like 5mins then shutting off, which could lead to condensation in the oil. I'm looking to park it and not touch it till spring.

Pretty much the same here. My commute is on a busy road, and is cleared usually right away, with the cars moving the salt off it quickly. I'm just concerned that when it's snowing/right after. Guess I could just call in sick that day. ;)

That's what I plan on doing too, if I drive it in the winter, to get it washed at least once a week, if not more, depending on the roads. Touchless wash with undercarriage rinse by my house too. I'll even try to get a hand wash in once a week or so. Another concern would be removing the snow on the car when it does snow without scratching the clear coat and removing the ice on the windows. Then again, my old car took years to warm up in the cold, thus making me have to scrape the ice off the windows manually to get anywhere.

yea im referring to DRIVING it, like to work, the mall, your Grandmas house, not just around the block. Change the oil a few times. Only keep 1-2 gallons of gas in the tank and refill after each short trip.

Never heard that before. Leaving the fuel tank empty that is. Wouldn't that make it easier for condensation to form from the change of temp, which then causes rust?

Salt is only corrosive at warmer temperatures.

Could you explain? I have not heard this before. :iono:

Not flaming, but I have to jump on this:

THIS IS NOT TRUE :mad0260:

Salt is corrosive at all temperatures, otherwise you could just wash off the underbody of your car before the temperatures got too warm in the spring and you would be just fine.

This, however, is not the case. The chemical reaction of rusting (the oxidation) still takes place, albeit at a slower rate than at warmer temperatures.

So, long story short, little science buddies, is that as long there is liquid (water) and an electrolyte (salt), there will eventually be rust, no matter what the ambient temperature is. Hell, all you need for rust is a metal and oxygen, the water just makes it happen quicker.

p.s.--rusting can occur even with only ice around, but the rate is very, very, very slow.

/science minute

Always keep the tank topped off (90% or so) and use fuel stabilizer. I'm not planning on driving mine at all during winter, it will be in the garage the whole time.

What you do is keep tank full with stabilizer, run it for a minimum of 15 minutes once a month, and move it through all gears (not moving the car, just the tranny) and roll it forward and back a few times, in and out of the garage a couple times is all that's needed.

This keeps everything lubed and the fuel system clear with the stabilizer. When you put the stabilizer in, make sure to drive for 10 minutes or so to mix it in the system completely. This is very important with the ethanol in gas these days. Unless you can get ethanol free gas, but still use the stabilizer.

Never changed oil every few months or even 6 months when a vehicle wasn't in use. Never noticed any issues with oil. New oil put in after 6 months still looked new, not sure why people says to change so often. Done this on many cars and trucks without issue.

I go by mileage not time.

Oh and the tires are fine sitting that long, radials don't have the flat spot issue of old tires. No need to put it on jack stands, though doing that if you store for more than a year is a good idea, but only lift half the suspension travel, not all the way off the ground if you do that.

edit: Reason for full tank, ethanol and air cause oxidation, so a full tank with fuel against all the metal parts can't oxidize.

I'm looking for 2004-2006 wrx wheels, I will be dricing My Scion all winter, I want to run some 205/55r-16 snows so the search begins now for the wheels. Living at 7500 feet, there will be snow.