Suspension/Wheel budget of $5000-6000. Priority is actual upgrade, looks are 2ndary
 

Honestly, i'm a little confused with the whole camber adjusting options. Reading about the pros/cons of different ways to dial in the front/rear camber is getting confusing for me. I'm coming from cars that had double-wishbone setups and it seemed very easy. Looks wise, I am planning on a mild drop of 0.5 to 1.0 inch drop. Wheels would be a little more aggresive compared to stock, such as 17x8 with low 40s offset

I have a budget of $5000-6000 for coilovers, wheels, tires, and whatever else is needed. When it comes to coilover, i'm thinking about waiting for what Bilstein and Ohlins have in store. My car is mainly used as a weekend car and I will track a half dozen times a year. This budget doesn't include "braces".

Btw I know this platform is brand new so I don't mind waiting. I could be patient :)

MCA coilovers
Any 17" used 5x100 stock sti impreza wheel.
Used R Comps.

Wait for Ohlins, drive it on stock wheel and tire combination. Note the feel. Switch to 17 x 7.5 RPF1 or similar lightweight wheel, Direzza Star Specs, adjust to feel accordingly.

AST coilovers, lightweight 17x9 wheels, Dunlop Star Specs in 235/40 or 245/40

This is my plan, but what would I have to do with camber adjustment? I believe the fronts would come with camber plates on top but the rears seem to be tricky

This. And AP Racing Sprint BBK (10lbs lighter PER CORNER!)

It wouldn't surprise me if Ohlins made coilovers that are easier to adjust both front and rear.

If anything, I think the stock -1.5* setup is fine. Lowering the car may increase negative camber anyway.

Out of personal preference, I would keep -2* up front, -1.5* out back, and add 5mm-10mm spacers, depending on the offset of the vehicle.

Mild setup. Clean look.

i think he wants the adjustment because as you lower the car, youre likely to gain too much negative camber.

what are YOUR goals? what don't you like about the current setup? what do you want to improve? if you haven't defined your goals, then dumping 5-6k is simply a waste of money. people suggesting parts A or B are simply stating what they like and doesn't really help in what you need.

This!

How do you plan on using the car? Is it a DD? Track time, auto-x, time attack, hill climb, chauffeur service?

- Andrew

Mainly used as a weekend car and I will track a half dozen times a year. I want to lower the car by 0.5 to 1.0 inches and while i'm upgrading I would want better dampers while not messing up the camber. Slightly more aggressive camber but not more. What I care about the most if low/mid speeds if that make sense since I will be going to mostly tight and technical tracks.

When it comes to wheels/tires I want to stay relatively close to the stock specs. Basically I don't want to mess up the stock geometry by going with too high or low offset, while losing weight.

Hanasuko,


I make my living with providing driving instructions and setting up suspensions for my customers. So, take it for what's it worth.

First of all, about 90% of HPDE drivers are better off investing money in quality driving instructions (pro coaching) that include some sort of skidpad trainings to slide cars if their goal is to improve their driving skills or to improve their laptimes.

Having said that, you sound like a perfect candidate for a nice set lowering springs and camber bolts. A half zone time a year of tracking is not enough to warrant a full-blown coilovers unless you're competing for times. So far, the only lowering springs I've seen that are worth trying are Swift springs, because their spring rates are not so weak to deal with the lowering unlike the majority of lowering springs available in the market. If you follow this path, you can also upgrade your shocks to nice ones like koni yellows when your stocks shocks get worn out.

If you still want try the coilovers, buy the real ones; ohlins, koni, bilstein, AST, etc. The generic Tawainese dampers render horrendous results whey they are tested on a shock dyno to the extent that will make you think that the manufactures of these cheap coilovers are just bunch of scams...All they really do is lowering the cars...

I've driven a stock 86 few times now and it's a such well-balanced car that is eager to rotate and easy to control in slides, making it a perfect car to practice your drivings. If you can drive a stock 86 to its full potential, you will be able to drive the wheels off of anything.


Good luck!

Hi Hanasuko,

The above poster is wise. I agree with his/her comments. My advice would be to save your money; at least for now. The 86 is a great handling car and already most are ruining them.

Don't change the suspension until you decide what you want the car to do, and until you understand what different modifications will do.

While Toyota set the suspension in the car to be 'sporty' they still have to make it quite tame. The car has quite a bit of castor but almost not front camber. Above poster recommends camber bolts and I second that. I would also add THIS

This will give some more caster and more front camber; both of which the car will benefit from. It will turn in better and you will notice it steers better. It will also understeer less.

I would also add an adjustable rear sway bar, I would go Whiteline again. This will make the car more eager to oversteer. Since it is adjustable you can easily change how much of this effect you prefer.

I would recommend better subframe bushings. Again, these can be gotten from Whiteline. They reduce the amount of slop in the rear end, and will also give you more grip, both in the corners and off the line.

If you desperately want to sink more money into it, get forged wheels, 16" or 17". Use 205/40 or 205/45 tyres. These will be a smaller diameter than stock, so it will 1: Lower the car; 2: Effectively shorten the gearing

This is exactly what I will be doing once my 86 arrives.