Car Won’t Start
 

Symptom:

* After a drive of about 20 minutes, I switch the car off, and when I try to restart it, it won’t crank.
* After waiting about 30–60 minutes, it starts normally.

What happens when it fails:

* The dash and all lights come on normally.
* The brake lights work when I press the pedal.
* The shifter moves between P and N normally.
* The green key indicator appears on the dash.
* When I press the start button, there is no crank, no click and no sound at all. It is completely silent.

What I’ve already tried:

* Replaced the key fob battery.
* Replaced the ST (Starter) relay with a new one — no change.
* Replaced the ST CUT relay with a new one — no change.
* Tried starting in both P and N — no difference.
* Kept the key fob away from my phone.
* None of these changed the problem.

Dealer:

They couldn’t find the fault and suggested replacing the whole wiring harness. I don’t think that is a real diagnosis, so I haven’t agreed to it.

Since the problem only happens after driving and disappears after waiting 30–60 minutes, I’m wondering if something is failing when hot and working again after cooling down.

Has anyone experienced this exact issue on an FR-S, Toyota 86 or BRZ? If so, what was the actual cause and what fixed it?

Any part numbers, fuse/relay locations, or diagnostic suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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Do you have headers or something that raise under-hood temps? It almost sounds like the starter is getting heat-soaked. I had a similar problem in a different car and just wrapping the starter in a heat blanket fixed it.

Yes, the car does have headers, and they have had heat insulation since I bought the car a long time ago. I’ll definitely take your suggestion seriously, as heat soak could possibly be the cause, especially since the car starts normally again after cooling down for 30–60 minutes. Thanks for pointing this out.

Do a through check on the battery cables.

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll definitely have the battery cables, terminals, and grounds checked thoroughly, including a voltage drop test when the problem occurs. I appreciate your help.


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How did it go? Find a resolution yet?