Roll Cage Install - Remove Heater Box or Not
 

I am having a full roll cage installed for NASA/SCCA racing. I'm on the fence about removing the heater box before having it installed. I believe I will be able to remove it later but it would be easiest now while the car is apart and cage is not installed.

Any pros/cons that people who have done this or left it as-is?

AC was removed a long time ago, but I use the heat/defrost for cold days at beginning or end of season or rainy humid summer days (in New England).

I've seen people that just deal with it, that treat the inside of the windshield, that use heating element kits (like rear window). It also appears there is a heated windscreen available from a vendor in the US for the Gen 1s.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Seems like a huge hassle for something you already know you need. Every time you breathe hard in the car it's going to be a pain

You might look at Vintage Air or another aftermarket company. They make heat and AC units for various builds. Several years ago, I put one in a Ratrod build.

Remove it and retrofit another more compact windscreen blower/defrost. Trying to keep any part of the HVAC that isn't required (like Spec Miata) is just a compromise in a proper cage. A bilge blower motor and hose are typically enough for most. BMW convertibles had a standalone heater/blower for the rear window that also works well. You can also add a defroster grid to the front window.

Keep it. Weight savings is something you have to put back in the car to be near 2750 lb range

and I doubt you can do both SCCA and NASA competitively unless you are just having fun.

Recommend NASA NE ... there is a bunch of us with 86 cars.
See you out there.

No plans for SCCA this year, maybe a CRE or something just to get my feet wet.

My plan is to run in NASA ST5 in NASA NE. I'm in the Boston area. I'll see you out there!

Car will also be setup for Grlidlife GLTC but the overlap is pretty good, I think it'll be a competitive car for both (FA24 Gen1). Not sure I'll do many GLTC events, but the club I run with in the Boston area (COMSCC) has a GLTC spec class which is pretty popular.

Currently my car which has a half cage is 2800 w/ Half Fuel + Driver (225) although I think it'll stay around the same with a few interior bits that aren't going back in when the full cage goes in. It's probably good (or too light even) for ST5, need to run the calculator. For GLTC it's on the bubble depending on how I want to tune/detune it.

Leave it in. If you use disconnects on the factory dash bar to the cage A bars, you'll be able to remove the whole dash for maintenance down the road so you'll have access to the HVAC stuff.

I ended up removing it and then putting a T7 Design Heater in w/ PWM Fan and ducting that to OE defrost ducts. Saved a ton of room under dash, weighs less and is much more serviceable. I'll post some pics when I have a chance.