2013 FA20 engine build / direct swap ideas?
 

Hello all;

Long time BRZ owner - haven't been on the forum much at all though.
I have a fairly modified 2013 BRZ - It's been my daily for the past 8 ish years, Gets much better fuel economy than my Tundra, so I appreciate that a lot.

The car currently sits in this configuration (leaving out a lot of the non-relevant mods, but it's got a lot)

Stock FA20 (2013) motor, 101k miles. Vortech Supercharged on 8psi with Ecutek tune - 265whp
Other than that, it's stock drivetrain wise (with exception of clutch parts)...

I did an oil change recently and noticed some copper flakes in the oil. I'm guessing something is giving way, unfortunately. I've not been bad to this motor, but I suppose the reliability of these things can be questionable, especially when boosted. FWIW, I typically stuck around a 4000mi oil change interval. It has been boosted since ~50k miles.



Now- for what I came to the forum about...
I have some options in front of me. I am curious what options there might be for Drop-in long blocks on the market? I saw that IAG makes a short block, but not a long block FA20? I love the idea of dropping in a more stout long block, and then upping to my 12PSI pulley and calling it a day. But it seems there's nothing quite like a built long block on the market?

Picture of the car attached.

Thanks!

A long block is just a short block with the heads fitted for you. The heads of these cars are great from factory and have far better port sizes than the wrx FA20, which I think is largely why companies like IAG don't feel the need for an expensive long block package deal.

My advice would be to get another stock engine with low miles, and try to enjoy the car as-is.

Thanks for the feedback - I'm starting to realize that.
Either that, or just the short block and have the heads freshened up?

Does anyone know what having heads "rebuilt" or freshened up on these cars would entail?

Alternatively, I do just find an OEM engine with low miles (likely from JDM source) and swap it in as-is, which would very much be direct drop in, and I could enjoy the car as-is.

Just trying to weigh my options.
@DarkPira7e - I see in your signature you have an IAG block - was that the short block mated to the OEM heads? What did you have to do, if anything, to the heads for that setup?

thanks in advance!

What's your budget for this endeavor?

Yes, my heads that were on the car initially, not new heads. I bought a new set of OEM head gaskets and I used new ARP head studs. Gently cleaned off the old rtv sealant, replaced the oil filter screens, cleaned out the cam gears, put in new valve springs and replaced the valve seals.
My car was a spun bearing failure though, I absolutely recommend not touching the cam gears.

If you do this preemptively, I would get new valve springs and seals. Change the little filters, get OEM head gaskets and ARP head studs. Send the heads to a shop for planing to make sure they are absolutely perfect and flat.
I also replaced my direct injectors at this time to make sure the seals were new and installed correctly. Do not try to fiddle with the direct injector seals yourself, massive headache.

I'm willing to spend ~$10k. I plan on driving this car for at least the next 5-10 years still.

Thank for the info @DarkPira7e - I just poked through your build thread. Good reference.

OK, it sounds like you and I are in a similar situation. I don't know how much work you are willing to do though.

However, here's my breakdown.

• Pull my own engine. This includes removing my turbo and all necessary components.
• Tear down the engine to separate the heads from the block.
• Determine whether or not I go with Outfront Motorsports short block or have a local shop build my block. The cost is about the same.
• Have the shop install new valve springs and buckets with retainers.
• Reassemble with ARP studs and new head gaskets.
• Reinstall myself.

So, the cost breakdown for me looks like this:

• Shortblock with forged rods and pistons - ~$5000
• Valve Springs ~$500
• ~Buckets and Retainers (Denstoj) - ~$600
• ARP head studs ~$275
• Head gaskets - ~$300
• Miscellaneous parts and gaskets - ~$500

So, I'm at about $7k give or take. I already have an engine hoist and a stand. I also do most of my own work too.

Your $10k budget it workable if you do some of the key parts.

Put an FA24 in and then re-use your SC and retune the car.

Not that I really think you're wrong but I haven't been able to find a FA24 for under $6-$7k in the midwest.

I looked for a few months but found one locally for $3750 out of a low mile automatic.

Thanks for the detail. I'll use this as sort of a template to learn what all I need to do.
I'm comfortable doing my own work, I have a full shop worth of tools, and i'm no stranger to wrenching, but I have never built my own engine from scratch, that's the reason I'm coming into this from this angle. I think getting a short block and prepping the heads, removing/ installing the engine myself would be a comfortable amount of work for me.

They are like 4-5k on eBay and shipping is a few hundred bucks.

This was my first full engine rebuild as well. I went with the IAG closed deck block and had my local machine shop rebuild the heads with Ferrea valvetrain and oversized valves. After, went with the smallest pulley i could reasonably run up over 8k rpm, set the soft limiter at 8200 and have been running it like this for a few years now. putting down over 400 at the wheels reliably.