How to max out camber with crash bolts?
 

I got the crash bolts installed but even with two people the most camber I could get is like 0.9 degrees on one side and 1.3 on the other side. I keep reading how people get closer to 2 degrees with the crash bolts. Is there some secret to kicking it out more or do the manufacturing tolerances just leave some cars with a degree less even with the crash bolts?

The upper hole would need to be slotted for that much camber, perhaps you were checking threads with guys running coilovers? Typically they have slotted upper hole.

You can achieve -2° if you get a SPC lower camber bolt to pair with the upper crash bolt on stock struts.

I used these on my 2017 to stay legal in DS for autocross. I had -1.1 on each side. I think when we were doing it we got -1.1 on one and around -1.3 on the other and moved the one back to match.

You won't get -2 for sure. -2 would have been great for street class with these cars. You'd need regular adjustable camber bolts for that like SPC, Whiteline, etc.

Ah, thanks… I went back and looked and not sure what I was thinking of with the -2. I ended up with -0.9 on the left and -1.3 on the right. So the right side seems good but I guess I’m a little off on the left. Maybe it’s just a manufacturing difference on the car. Figured I’d just leave both sides uneven but maxed out for Autocross rather than pull the right one back to -0.9 to match.

I don't know if I remember correctly, but there is a Subaru bolt that you can buy to stay legal in autocross and get more camber. It also involves switching up the placement. Don't know if it works on OEM suspension or if it aids with coilovers only.

That's very low for 2 bolts, I was able to get -2.4.

You can probably even those out by shifting the subframe.

Setup used:

Pedders top mounts
SPC lower camber bolt
Crash bolt up top (using the OEM lower bolt swapped to the upper position)

Something that helped me a lot during the installation was the following approach:

With all the new components in place but still loose, lower the car slightly onto a piece of wood positioned offset toward the outside of the wheel. This helps to push the suspension outward and maximize negative camber.

Once the car is resting in that position, tighten all the bolts with the piece of wood still in place. Then lift the car back up, remove the wheel, and torque everything to spec.

If you’re lucky, both sides will come out with very similar camber. In my case, I ended up with -3.2° and -3.1° using this setup.

Afterward, it’s best to visit an alignment shop to confirm the camber and let them finish the toe adjustment.

PS: The same process works without Pedders top mounts; you should still get around -2° of negative camber.

When installing RCE Tarmac 2 (with slotted top hole), I used a large F-clamp to hold the top at maximum negative camber while I tightened the bolts. This should work for a crash bolt at the top hole.
Or use a camber bolt both top and bottom, which makes this much easier to adjust for max camber.

While running Koni Yellows I used camber bolts in the top and bottom holes plus Pedders offset top mounts (-75*). My alignment guy said he could get max -3.5*negative camber. We settled on -2.75* as at that point I was 95% DD highway commuting with a few lapping days per summer. I don’t recall whether the Koni’s had slotted holes but I never slotted then.