Race Car Conversion Questions...
 

Hey Guys,

Had a few questions around converting a 1st gen car to an endurance racer.

The first is with pit stops (fueling, driver change, etc.). Sanctioning bodies like AER will require the master electric is cut via shut-off before fueling can be done. This is effectively disconnecting the battery.
Does anyone know what needs to be done on our cars to prevent an ECM relearn when the battery is reconnected?
Also, is there any way to use EcuTek or something else to hard code the TC/VSC to be off when the new driver gets in and starts the car? Yes, they can hold the button down while going through pit road but there's a lot of other things they are getting acclimated to for the start of their stint in that first few seconds until they are out of the pits. The OBD connector is being used by a P3 gauge so a hardware device or jumper that plugs into that connection probably won't work unless it has a pass-through.

The second is around engines and tunes. Are the flashed tunes stored in the module attached to the passenger side fuel rail controller such that you could have 2 complete engines with modules attached, tuned the same way and if something goes wrong with one you basically pull the lines for fuel, water, oil cooler adapter and yank the first engine with harness attached, drop the second in, reconnect the lines and go with a fully functional tune? Or is it stored elsewhere in the computers so it doesn't matter? When I picked up my spare engine with that module included/attached, I never had to do anything to recalibrate the factory immobilizer, it was just drop in and go. My ECM was completely factory though so I don't know what would have changed if anything when doing the swap with a car that has been tuned.

Finally, I'm looking to do the CageKits weld in road race cage (not the X-bar FD cage). If anyone has one or has dealt with one, do you know if the driver footwell fuse block needs to be relocated and how much room you have with just the door cards removed. Wasn't planning on fully gutting the doors if it could be avoided but I feel like some of the bigger team drivers might be pretty close to the cage.

Hope this makes sense. Thanks in advance for the help!

Figured out the first part. Looks like Trac-Box and the cubby switches are a perfect solution! Allows for disabling the features entirely or tweaking to each driver's taste or weather conditions on the fly. Still retains usability of the OBD connector as well.