Looong crank and stalling.
 

Long story short i've been having misfires for a while now and i even posted a thread about it: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153985

But lately things have gotten worse.
For the past few months, I've been progressively getting a long crank. it has gotten worse overtime.
The first time it finally starts, I can only drive for like an hour or so and as soon as I slow down (in traffic or traffic light), the engine just stalls - lights on and all (so not a battery issue). I had to start it again - at this point I didn’t experience the [super] long start.
Well now, it got worse over time.. when it stalls now, it takes about few cranks
to get rolling again.
And the kicker now is the amount of time it takes for it to stall reduces overtime. Basically like maybe about half an hour [that I drive around or even sitting at idle], it just stalls - fuel cut of some sort, and after consecutive next successful startup the length of the engine running reduces all the way down to like a few minutes. And I have to wait like 10 to 15 minutes to get it started again - going through multiple long crank.
Only thing that came through my mind is maybe the coolant temp sensor is the cause? But the techstream/ecutek seems to be reading things right - but I still have a feeling there might be something that’s overheating…no idea.
I have changed the sparks, coils, crank position sensor, camshaft sensor, tested battery (good). THe coolant temp seems fine (so I kinda ruled out the temp sensor) 0- All these being monitored on the ecuTek app.
Last result is to use techstream to see if I get get any useful freeze data during the stalling below:
[See Attached pictures]

I would really appreciate if anyone can sorta point me in the right direct looking at the freeze data. Only thing i am sorta aware of is the fuel pressure not matching the target. :iono:

Edit:
here are datalog of the stallings:
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/11-43s...g=0&data=27-36
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/11-43s...g=1&data=27-36
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/11-42stall?log=1&data=27
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/11-42stall?log=2&data=27
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/11-43s...g=0&data=27-36
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/11-43s...3-36&hg=22-3-4

let me know if there are other parameters you may want to include in the future for further diagnose..
The only thing that I know (according to my limited knowledge) would be the fuel rail pressure droppping way lower before it stalls.
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UPDATE:

Well upon close inspection, it was the fuel pump not properly installed. it was missing additional o-ring and the fuel pump container wasn't snapped down properly into the fuel cannister (only one out of three was snapped in place). That's the issue for the fuel starvation.
Now mind you i was already having this issue prior to the new pump...but since then I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor (tested it and no ohms and the magnetic force was weak compared to the new replacement), one of the camshaft sensor that was leaking oil, and high pressure fuel pump. So Anyone one of those could have fixed the original issue after the [low pressure] fuel installation.

The next stage now is the figure out why I'm still getting those misfires on cold start and when tapped on the gas for split second. I'll post the logs for those later.

Here is the current logs i took today after the fuel pump fix (so sign of vacuum leak or something else):
fuel trim acts according to rpm /acceleration angle:
Cruising logs:
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/cruisi...ta=40-52-57-60
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/cruisi...ta=40-52-57-60
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/cruisi...ta=40-52-57-60
as you can se the massive positive fuel trim.

Idle logs:
https://datazap.me/u/ojuniour/idling...ta=40-52-57-60

so far the target fuel pressure target seems to now be on point with the current pressure.

oh and you disregard the p0420...I'm running catless and I don't want that tuned out yet.

Oh and I also though it was the fuel pump. I've since completely changed BOTH the high fuel pump and low fuel pump .
Yes, I know..I've been throwing stuff hoping something sticks. I just don't want to waste more time and money trying to decide things all on my own. :(

What does compression test say?

I've yet to do compression test.
I believe I can simulate a [compression] active test in Techstream for all cylinders. I'll give that a shot.

Now at this point, I'm not if that would yield any accurate result due to the cranking issue.

It can only be one of two things, intermittent/no spark or no fuel. If it was a carbureted engine I'd say you had a stuck/sticking float that starved the engine of fuel. You have to wait for the float bowl to file up to go again.
I had a number of problems on my MV Agusta that caused the engine to stall and then not restart for years. Error from ECU caused the TPS to read idle was 0 rpms. Then there was an air leak in the number one inlet tube, the only cylinder to have an air sensor and faulty fuel maps. Almost killed me. Not to mention the starter sprag issues. MV Agusta America wrote a special map just for my bike along with some trick parts and fixes. Took five years and they still hadn't addressed the starter sprag issue. After ten years (the last three I didn't ride it) I sold it so cheap I literally gave the bike away.

yea..no doubt it's a fuel/spark related. and it's highly unlikely it's a compression issue because of the symptoms - Maybe the cranking, but not the wild stalling.
I'll still do the compression test just to be sure.

The FA20 does crank using the port injection 100%, correct?

Techstream compression test just turns the crank for you. You still need to measure it with a pressure gauge

I know the relative compression test isn't 100% accurate..but it helps as a starting to figure out how bad it is..
I will still do the absolute test anyway. Taking out the spark is just a PITA- :iono:

I'm by no means an expert, but am I correct in reading that your MAF shows higher air mass as the rpms go down?

Once upon a time I had weird symptoms and similar codes from a vacuum leak.

Yep...and other parameters like the fuel pump duty.. not sure if that's by design..

I'm your case where exactly did you detect the leak?
Maybe that can be helpful.. Thanks.

Mine was easy. I had just installed an oil catch can. One of the hoses that I was sure was tight. I made a diy smoke machine to find it.

I do have a smoke machine which I used months ago for the misfires...but haven't since this current symptoms.
I'll try running the test again.
Thanks for the input.