I have a dead FA20, oil failure, what should I do?
 

So my 14 FRS died of oil failure, low pressure, and cooked the engine at 114k. Not hotrodding at the time, it just seized up. Also found a blown head gasket and it was very low on antifreeze per the shop I had repair it. Got it running again with a Car-parts.com replacement. Bought a transmission with it too, what the heck, lower miles. Still a stock long block with an HKS supercharger. But back on the road.

I kept the spent engine and parts and have the long block torn down a bit. Cams are galled, carriers looks shot as well. Nice to see the heads look fine, but at the mileage, probably need a refurb being it's apart. Haven't cracked the bottom end yet, waiting on the specialty rod socket. See some indicators of hot colors, purple, but that might be crank forging, not sure yet.

Checking the piston ring wear on the cylinders, I find no perceptible ring ridge at the top of the cylinder whatsoever, that surprised me. I can still see lots of cross hatch marks. A deglazing should be all that's needed. Mobil 1 has been run the whole time.

Being cars and interest rates are pretty high now, I'm thinking I'll send this off for what I expect will be a new crank and bearings at minimum. But I'll also put in some better rods to handle much more power. And then start planning a turbo for when this replacement engine fails. It will, the amount of RTV they use in these things, I'm amazed mine lasted as long as it did. Obnoxious squeeze out everywhere that will eventually get where you don't want it.

I'm thinking a turbo to 400 bhp range because I haven't seen a supercharger post those numbers yet. Still a fantasy and looking into it. Still cheaper than a new ride.

You will probably need the cam carriers. Back in my motorcycle days they would take material off the cam caps and line bore the cam journals back to size. With the carriers being replaceable it's probably not worth that. I'd also look into replacing the cam gears, they really don't like debris. You may be able to disassemble them and clean them, I don't know how much I trust that though. Would suck to go through all that work and get a cam timing correlation code. May be easier to just send off the shortblock as a core and buy a short block from IAG or someone like them.

Been looking at the money layout. Cams, carriers, and those phaser units for sure. New crank, beefier rods, Maybe an oversize piston and boring if the micrometers don't agree. Still not sure if I should go with 10:1 vs 12:1. Namely a turbo vs supercharger in my look so far. Big rods make any option possible on this motor.

And at 114k on these heads. I never spent a drop of oil, maybe some boost rated springs and just call it good. Micrometer checks will be done, don't get me wrong. I won't use near the sealant OEM does that cratered me in the first place. No OEM head gasket either.

I'll do the math and see where I land. I still want an LS3/T5 magnum trans with a hotter cam. The shift to turbo from my SC definitely makes the math lean V8 for cost and better reliability from Chevy.

I have a stage 2 IAG block with a c38 and highboost pulley on ethanol and should be at that number if you can pay. Call up CSG and IAG and tell them what you want to do and they will tell you what to look for. Sadly the 9500 rpm beehives weren't going to work for me, so don't get your hopes up when you see them listed on IAGs site.

I've decided to bail on this engine. Finally pulled it apart, con rod three spun a bearing. Ruined the crank, but the cams still look "usable" if one is looking to put a car back together and do the cleanup work to clear out oil passages and such. Have it on FB, got one bite, guy ended up going elsewhere.

Now I need to find someone who wants the good stuff that's left so it doesn't go in the recycle bins.