Hard shifting
 

The other day, I was driving the FRS and I noticed that the shifts weren't as smooth as they should be. When I stopped at a light, it would not go into 1st gear and I had to turn the engine off to get it going. Fortunately the next 3 lights were green. I got it to work but later in to day, it would not go into any gear and the reservoir was empty. My wife brought some fluid over but filling it did not change the clutch. No, I did not bleed it since one cylinder or the other is likely bad and I'm going to replace both anyway (2013 with 110k miles). It's been sitting at work while I've waited for the new master and slave cylinders to arrive. They got here today.

There was no noise. I have a Verus fork and pivot and an updated TOB. Fingers crossed that the new parts fix the problem.

Did you get the correct slave cylinder, or is that the stock one? ;)

do you have an exedy clutch?

RockAuto.

It an ACT clutch with a 6 puk disc.

No, I don't like it or the lightweight flywheel but I don't think it is currently the problem.

I was mostly yanking the chain of a fellow experienced shade tree wrench. ;)

Hope the project goes smoothly. :cheers:

How dare you call me a "shade tree wench". I've got a lot more class than that.

Well, actually, no I don't.

Went reasonably well. Installed cylinders, bled system to clear fluid, but it wouldn't go into gear. Lengthen rod, still wouldn't go into gear. I start contemplating ways to get the home to pull the trans when my supervisor and bleeding assistant (read wife) suggests another round of bleeding. The fluid looked clear but after that the car went into gear.

Now, the clutch doesn't engage until I let it almost all the way out. The rod is almost at the end of it's threads and there is no free play with my foot off the clutch pedal. Tomorrow is going to be cooler. I'll do some adjusting.

Haha... class is way overrated.


Careful with the pedal adjustment. I think you are in the range where the master piston can't retract enough to open the relief port. If you cannot draw the end of the fork forward to force the fluid out of the slave cylinder. It's locked out.

All right, it's doing it again. The car was sitting for a week or so while I was on vacation.

I started the car briefly to "feel" the clutch. It was the same as in my last post. I then adjusted the pedal so the clutch would catch an inch or so off the floor but it would still go into gear easily. I pushed the pedal in and put it in gear 3-4 times and on the last time when I had it in 1st, the car tried to lunge forward and after that, it wouldn't go in to gear again.

I adjusted the rod all the way out and reblead the system but it still doesn't go in gear. I measured the travel at the top of the fork and it was the same as my son's 2012 Impreza. I looked at the pressure plate bolts, thinking maybe they were backing out, but they looked tight.

To recap: Act II clutch, updated TB, Verus fork and pivot, and new slave and master.

Any Ideas?

There is no noise or vibration in the pedal and the tension in the pedal seems normal.

Physically pull the top of the fork forward. Are you able to push fluid from the slave back into the reservoir? Or more to the point, is the slave piston allowed to completely back out to the retaining clip when the pedal is fully released?

I played with that and even rigged up a return spring. It looks like the slave is fully retracting. Measurements were almost identical to the Impreza.

I did it wrong when I replaced the clutch master on my 240Z. It eventually pumped up to the point where the clutch didn't fully engage. That's when I learned about how they work. I still remember taking the wrapper off of my crisp new factory service manual.

That sounds like the opposite of my problem but what did you do to fix it.

LOL: I think I found my answer.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128871