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Please help a JRSC car driving in Texas summer and overheating
So I have a JRSC with HBP tuned from CSG. Everything was fine until this heat dome came over where I live and I had commute in ambient temp 105 F (heat index 115 F). I have all the stock setup meaning the intercooler, supercharger oil cooler and the JRSC track oil cooler are all mounted in front of the stock OE radiator. The stock OE radiator was missing those air guides. I put them back in and installed brand new fender liners. When I drove out in the morning with ambient temp 85-90 F, no overheating issues. But when I drive in the afternoon, once the coolant temps climb past 204 F (96 C), there is no coming down after that. Yesterday it climbed all the way to 214 F (101 C), so I rolled the windows down and blasted full heat. That brought down temps below 200 F (92 C) and I made my way home. I take it as a sign that the coolant is moving the heat atleast to the heater core ? Just drove the last half mile with A/C on again, coolant temps climbed back up to 210 F (99 C). I recently have had a pressure test done, which showed great numbers and I recently drained and filled original OE coolant. Had it burped again just a couple of days ago. Before anyone tells me to get a vented hood, Jackson racing races the same setup with a non-vented hood in the same temps and don't have this problem. Can someone help me out please ? What the hell am I missing ?
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That’s quite a bit of stuff you have mounted in front of your radiator, have you considered moving one of those cooling devices to be behind where your fog lights are?
Obviously doesn’t solve the mystery as to why JR can run their car without hood vents…but hood vents are pretty magical! Except when it creates a magical waterfall from your hood down and out your skid plate, that’s not as much fun to watch. |
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I have rain guards on my Verus vents but something that prevents water from getting in at all would be great. I wish you luck on your cooling journey, unfortunately that is all I have to offer. But did want to mention that no water should be getting into the vents when you are on the highway. All the air rushing out will prevent water from getting in. |
For your car and what you have done 210 is not a concern. If you want to cool it down louvers will help and Verus has rain guards for them.
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Did the foam on top of the radiator make it back in place after the upgrades? Sounds like you might have a lot of air going around the radiator rather than through it. Also keep in mind the air into your radiator is already very hot from passing through three coolers first (intercooler, oil coolers, and AC condenser). At the very minimum make sure the OEM foam is around all sides of the radiator forcing air through it rather than going around it. Better yet would be to add ducting from ACE or make some of your own.
Past that your options are to increase cooling capacity with a bigger radiator, reduce air temp to radiator by moving the oil coolers, or increase air flow through what you have with hood vents. |
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Does anyone know if there are any trims around where the skid plate meets the rear engine cover to help engine cooling ? So the air getting to the radiator is not a problem now. The air exiting the bay is the main problem I think. Coz clearly when I blast the heater out rolling the windows I am evacuating heat.
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What kind of commute are you talking here? If it is stop and go, venting and such isn't going to do much of anything. My NA car gets that hot in stop and go. If it is highway, then venting and making sure the shroud pieces are in place becomes more important. I personally wouldn't worry that much about it.
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A texas toll road highway commute is cruising at 90 mph and dodging lifted trucks from running you the fuk over coz they cant see your tiny little car.
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