How bad is it that I've had a 2 inch hole in my air filter resonator for 2 weeks?
 

CEL came on after I changed the air filter 2 weeks ago. It was a K&N high flow one that was red. Codes were P0171, P1170, C1201.

I reclamped the air filter box 3 days ago, double checking that the tabs on the bottom lined up well, and figured itd go away.

It didn't so today I did some inspecting and found a golf ball sized hole in the resonator thats attached to the bottom of the intake, after the air filter box. About parallel to the outlet that goes to the cabin sound generator tube. https://imgur.com/a/C9D4HnD

It must have happened during my first install, when I was moving pieces around. I dont see how, but the CEL coincided with the first attempt at install so it must have happened then

I'm gonna buy a replacement resonator and put it in but my question is, how bad is driving around with a golf ball sized hole in your intake?

I haven't driven through any particularly dusty areas but I've probably driven 200 miles or so on highways and cities. Its on the back of the resonator, the side not visible when looking at your engine from the hood. Is there anything preventative I should do to help mitigate damage? Or is the damage done and Ill find out in a few days/months/years when my engine needs rebuilding prematurely.

Also, it looks like its not easy to find a new OEM Intake Resonator, so I'll probably be going with this plug

https://tecnocraftcomposites.com/pro...or-delete-plug

unless anyone has a experience with a different one.

Edit: nvm, this resonator and the one thats broken on mine are not the same.

Edit2: Looks like my best bet is just to buy a new inlet tube without the box

last addendum/bump:

the one thats broken is the small dangly one, AFTER the filter. Here is a picture of the resonator on a for sale tube: https://imgur.com/a/C9D4HnD

Below the T junction where the sound tube is. It is NOT the bigger one on the left that people talk about deleting, which is before the air filter

So definitely I have been raw dogging unfiltered air into my engine.

Sand and such will scratch the cylinder walls. If if did any major damage you will start to consume oil. I would not worry about it you will spin a bearing before you wear out the cylinders.

Just throw all that garbage away and install A Perrin intake tube.

Unless you've been following other cars along dirt roads, you're fine. On a related note, I'm not a fan of the high flow aftermarket air filters for the same reason. Less resistance to air flow across the same cross-sectional area by definition means less filtration. Also those serviceable oiled filters can foul the MAF sensor. [cue the hate]

Good call replacing the resonator instead of just plugging the hole. :thumbsup:

Yeah i wanted stock air filter for the same reasoning (the power gains are tested to be virtually non existant and the platform has already been decently optimized for performance) but they only had this high flow one available

Im gonna get an aftermarket inlet tube because i cant find the resonator for sale and i dont wanna buy used/go to a scrap yard lol

Thanks for the reassurance guys. Ill keep an eye on oil consumptiom though theres not much to do regardless

Gatorade cap mod

Somebody else's filthy outside air has touched it

this is the exact reason scrap yards exist... they'll probably charge you $40 for the ENTIRE intake system.

Yeah im thinking about it. Ive just never done a scrap yard before. Can i expect to confirm that they have frs/brz before i go?

Btw your posts on sound deadening were great.

Row 52 has been a great resource for me. I just need to get off of my ass when the email notifications come in. :bonk:

there's really 2 variants of scrap yard.

pick-your-part yards= you can confirm they have 'a' vehicle(usually with a picture of the vehicle as it was coming into the yard), but they won't confirm anything on it still exists, you must visit the location, and remove the part yourself with your own tools. depending on the popularity of the yard, and the vehicle, i've seen entire cars nearly stripped down to the frame in a matter of 2-3 days.

i've done a ton with LKQ pick-your-part yards, but they're all about the same. it basically kept my old ranger on the road. all the oem window switches failed, and there's zero replacements for those.



standard scrap yards= they don't allow anyone into the yard, you call/email them about the year/make/model you want to discuss with them, as well as the part/color you need. they'll give a quote, and if you want it, they send someone out to the yard, pull the part, then you can either pick it up, or they can ship it to you.

my local yards that do this generally are closer to MSRP of new parts, so i just plain avoid this route if possible. but i've done a ton of this through ebay. i'll search for the make/model of car, then specify the part i'm looking for, as well as highlighting 'used' items.

in this case, i'd jump to this listing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12603809785...Condition=3000

no, it's not the right part, but then i message them asking for the related component that they don't have listed. most times they're very reasonable on pricing. i do this a lot for parts that i'm going to alter. i order the replacement, modify it, then keep the original on the shelf for the case where i want to, or need to return the vehicle to stock, or something goes wrong with my modification.