Rear left hub bearing replacement, advice.
 

Good day folks.
I will be replacing my rear left hub due to wobbling wheel.
I will follow this video & hope I won't need that hub tool to remove it.
I'm around 70 k miles now, never winter driven.
Any comments, trick/issues you had would be welcome.
Apart from removing the hub I don't expect any issue.
If someone has ft/lbs I would appreciate, but google can convert...
Someone has the shop manual in their sig but I can't remember who, have not been here in a while.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whjs...l=MrSubaru1387

Cheers :cheers:

@Ultramaroon has the manuals in his sig.

Before you do anything disconnect the wheel speed sensor, it mounts to the top of the knuckle through a little hole, I believe 10mm socket. Zip tie it up out of the way that it won't get damaged. You will break it if you forget to do this and try to pull the hub out of the spindle.

Loosen the CV axle nut with the car on the ground. It is like 120ftlbs.

Take a picture of the parking brake assembly when you pull the rotor off, will save you a headache later if you are unfamiliar how it goes together.

Make sure you get the rear of the car high enough you can get under it. The hub bolts are on the backside of the knuckle and are around 40+ftlbs. It just makes things easier to have access from more sides.

I believe the CV axle needs removed first, can't remember. I don't think you will have access to the hub bolts with the CV in place. You will only need to pull it from the hub end, the other side can stay in the diff. To remove the CV axle you are going to need to disconnect the lower control arm and the trailing arm from the hub, sometimes it is handy to use a jack or stand to hold the hub where you want it. You will need to tap the splined end of the CV through the hub so have something handy you can use that will not damage the end of the axle. Use never seize on the spline putting it back together.

Get a new nut for the CV axle. They are single start and you peen them in place to lock them. The old spot always lines up close to the new one if you try to reuse it and you risk it backing off. This will manifest into a click that will drive you crazy whenever you move at slow speeds.

Use zip ties to hold the caliper to the shock spring to keep it out of the way.

Edit: Just skimmed the video, looks like you can get the hub bolts off with the CV in place. Will save a lot of time that way.

MSG's info covers all the nuances really well.
The only thing I would add, is if you run into a wonderful situation where the the bearing assembly is stuck or seized in place... Some penetrating oil and a big hammer can help. Heat may or may not help much because both parts are steel, so they'll tend to expand evenly, but it can help break a rust bond by making the parts expand and change shape ever so slightly. Nonetheless, don't burn the boot. If you get to this point, its probably a good idea to get the CV joint out of the way, anyway.

Take a bolt to the local Ace Hardware and get 4 matching bolts about 1/2"-1" longer. Thread the longer bolts in by hand and smack them with the hammer to drive the bearing out.

If reach/clearance is an issue and the hammer can't strike the bolt heads cleanly, pick up a cheap sacrificial impact socket and a short extension if necessary. This can help maintain purchase on the bolt head so you can smack away, just make sure the socket rests against the bolt head and doesn't bottom out on the knuckle.

Make sure it's coming out evenly so it doesn't get jammed. I did longer studs several years ago, and had to remove all the bearing assemblies. The rears didn't give me much trouble, but the front left put up a HELL of a fight. Felt like a blacksmith by the end of that day.

They can be quite stubborn. All the best!

Well, all done.
Not too bad, started around 11am, finished putting all tools away around 3:30.
Video was helpful. Disc was a little hard to remove, had to contract the parking brake a
little to remove it. The shaft was kinda stuck in the hub, good thing my neighbor was
around he tapped the shaft to push it out of the hub, tapping till it was all the way out
while I was holding the splash plate. Hub came out no problem, using little taps around & around. I did remove all the parking brake stuff, no need to remove it, just need to remove that silver bar at top being held on with 1 spring & it should come out, see end of video. He does not show that at the star of the video. My notch was no longer in the
right place, it had moved??? Hard to torque those 4 bolts, I was able to torque 2 & the
other 2 with a 1/2 inch socket wrench.
I much prefer working on motorcycles, thank God I don't drive this car in the snow
otherwise it would have went to the shop.
Easy to do if your familiar with mechanics, don't forget to put anti seize when putting
it back together.

Tks to @NoHaveMSG , @wheelhaus & @Ultramaroon

Nice, glad to hear it went smoothly.

Which notch are you referring to that was in a different place, the axle nut?

It's a win anytime we can fix it without breaking something else. :D

Kudos!

Correct.

For sure, always my worst nightmare, break something & need to wait for parts
for a few days at best & the winter beater is down & out. Or, break something
I can't fix & need to roll it to a shop!

While you hopefully won't need it, having a dedicated axle removal tool will make the job easier, especially if the axle is stuck.
PolyTrack