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2017 BRZ VVT Issues
Hello!
I’m currently in the process of building my track car with the help of your comments on this forum (thank you a lot those of you who replied to my last post). After speaking to CSG Mike, it was clear to me that a new tune for the parts I already had on my car before the engine went was in desperate need. Thanks to the folks over at CounterSpace Garage for helping me out with a great tune so far and helping me trouble shoot my issue! At the moment, we’ve reached a hiccup, my VVT won’t enable. I’ve been scouring the forums for the potential issue(s) and potential solutions. The new motor was purchased brand new from Subaru and installed by a reputable tech and from my understanding, everything was running fine (I was a dummy and didn’t monitor anything via ECUtek). What are the odds that my VVT sensors could have gone bad in the last 950 miles or so? I’ve tried all the tricks I’ve read on the forums from past folks with the same issue and no matter what I do, the VVT remains at = 0. I saw a comment by CSG Mike to completely replace the gears but at my current skill set, that seems out of my wheelhouse. I would love any advice to figure how to fix this and if it’s just a bad sensor perhaps versus a bad cam gear? Zach at CSG has already confirmed this isn’t a tune issue and has to be a mechanical issue! Thanks in advance! -Raiden Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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What is your idle set at? You have to idle below 1K to enable.
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try last resort
reset dtc with dash on, press throttle slowly 4 or 5 times turn engine on let it idle 5 minutes without ever touching throttle if still not active, start driving without stopping for a few miles or more if need to warm oil up while driving at a point you ll need to go past at least 3500 rpm with about 40-50% throttle and then also reach 5000 rpm with second gear but with few throttle Once at 5k rpm let the car engine-break a lot Finally slow down and stop at idle and look at VVT Enabled value This hardly fail, you could possibly do more tries with it for somw reason, rebuilt engines can be doomed with slow activation of VVt i suspect it is caused by the VVT initial values that are imprinted in the ecu by the ecu itself, maybe the alignment of cam gears and everything in the front cover and valvetrain made by the mechanic is not perfectly equal to how it was before with the old untouched oem engine Still withing spec but a little difference that can mess with the activation at idle of the VVt just after cranking or, some other problems with the cam gears reactiveness, i dont know Driving like i wrote before somewhat moves things and put favorable conditions for its activation |
Are your OCVs actuating? Or at least getting signal? Might try replacing those.
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