Blown engine - HKS SC equipped rebuild planning
 

14 FRS 114k, HKS SC, lost something, then oil pressure, then it went kaput with knocking. Oil was full.

Working with a tuning shop for new engine versus just replace it with a used motor. Current thinking is an IAG longblock, 12.5:1 compression and keep the SC system since investment is already made.

Talking E85 upgrades and maybe a smaller pulley, but only really get the pulley benefit when running E85 from what I can tell. Would like a flex fuel sensor system and tune to constantly adjust to optimize the tune via the flex % value, but we'll see. Shop said some new EPA regs are getting strict and it just may not be as easy as it sounds. That's developing. I'm in a smog zone and they're getting stricter all the time. The SC passed the OR DMV check last round as it came from HKS. It has the HKS provided tablet tune for reference, otherwise stock exhaust with CSG MXP cat back and a KN airfilter.

The other attack plan would be a 10.5:1 compression block and switch to a turbo. I like this idea as the power could be more easily dialable with boost adjustment. But I'm not thrilled about all that extra cost on top of a hefty bill forming already. Is it worth it? It looks like the only path to easily get more power.

Anyone been through this before? Figured I'd throw a post out before I spend a bunch of time digging for it. If the dollars go too high, I'll consider an aluminum block LS swap of some flavor. Few kits out there look pretty good. Especially the ones with the controllers to make all the CAN bus bits plug and play nice. So many rabbit holes to go down and explore to the bill of materials level on this one for me. I enjoy the pondering, but don't have luxury of time, I just want my ride back.

Not related to your question but just curious, did you check your valve covers for cracks? Could have thrown rocker arm.

were you with petrol only?
if you have access to e85, easiest way is to keep stock compression and use that, for easy cheap power
an unrestricted hks sc with 90mm pulley will reach about 0.95-1.1 bar (depending on ambient temp) and with e85 that s easily 400whp

about ecutek yes it s shitty situation, does your smog check include an obd check or they just check for smog in tailpipe?
Because there is a workaround (pm me ) for ecutek to work with everything, but if you then have to go back to a USDM based tune it becomes annoying the conversion

FWIW: If you don't have the luxury of time, then an LS swap is probably not the way to go. I haven't done a swap on a twin but I have done other swaps. It's not something that gets finished in one weekend.

This.

Coincidentally - I threw a rocker my first weekend with my Harrop Setup on a stock block, 95mm pulley and E85. Just a series of bad events and my time was due. I've had the car since new, and it's been beat on since 900 miles when it first saw the dyno. Car had a not-easy life of 35k miles or so.

Anyways, some neat photos bc it's honestly pretty impressive

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8Q&oe=646210D4

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...jA&oe=6461D26E

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...og&oe=6461AEE5

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...wQ&oe=646153F2

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...DQ&oe=6461A772

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ow&oe=646187B9

https://scontent.fosu3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Uw&oe=64620D4A



ANYWAYS.

I went with an IAG 600 Short Block (12.5), IAG does not offer longblocks in FA20 (non DIT) configuration. Even if so, that's a real pretty penny to be investing in a fully built longblock, assuming IAG's FA20DIT prices would track linear.

I was able to reuse my driverside head, I had to source a new passenger side heat since the other one basically got shot by birdshot thanks to a piston that was no longer a piston. I needed new OEM Cams since both took hits by the rocker arm bouncing around.

Decided to invest in GSC Valves since OE Valves were way expensive and the cost to replace 1 side versus doing them all was minimal, GSC Valve Springs, Rocker Retainer Arm Kits too for the heads. Sent the heads off to a machine shop to deck the heads 0.003" and assemble the heads with the valves set w/proper lashing

Needed a new timing cover since the oil pump chewed itself up, my VVT Solenoids looked not great (at least the driverside there was dust/oil all over) so I replaced those 4 as well. Reused the Cam sprockets on all 4 cams and the timing chain.

On the bottom I grabbed a new oil pan, Moroso Baffle and Killer B Pickup Tube.

All in, minus some other misc costs that I grabbed outside of the rebuild itself I was probably 9k or so.