Stalling at idle...Please help
 

Recently tuned by Delicious on their stage 2 tune. Had no issues the first few days. I'm not sure at all what the issue could be. This only happens after RPMs increase and drop back down. Does not happen when coasting in neutral or resting at idle.

Idle log: Giving the car a little bit of gas at idle here, not too sure what to look for here but I see the voltage dropping super low as the car almost stalls.

https://datazap.me/u/nickebanks/log-...?log=0&data=16


Driving log: Not sure if there's anything else to look for here. There are a couple points in time where I almost stall highlighted by the voltage dip.

https://datazap.me/u/nickebanks/log-...=0&data=6-9-16

I'm super new to all of this and will take any pointers or suggestions.

Had the same issue. I couldn't get much help from them so I have ended up getting a tune elsewhere. :bonk:

Ok in the log at idle with no throttle the target afr is round 14.7 which it should be, but the actual afr or measured afr varies rich to lean. This seems bogus as in a few places the actual afr is measuring 20or close to 20this is heavily max lean, but the injection times from the port and direct are not zero. Most likely cause is bad 02 sensor the front 02,or possib Y intake or exhaust leak. Also check the direct injection computer has all three mount bolts in and tight

Mine didn't stall but Delicious did the tune for the car and it never drove right spiked over 20 on AFR would stumble if when I would get on throttle in any gear. Had a member here reach out and retuned it and it is running better than it ever did before.

Don't want to drag them through the mud but I wont ever use or recommend Delicious to anyone.

From my experience of having this issue:

The exhaust i had installed was not sealed completely and if you have a vacuum leak or leak in the exhaust you can stall the car. Other things that make it worse is a lightweight flywheel or lightweight pully. An exhaust has to have the right amount of back pressure, too much free flowing can confuse the ECU unless you get it tuned right.

I got my car tuned up to revision 8 or eight times to get it right. I did change things a lot, so that didn't help the exhaust.

Once my exhaust was fabricated and the option to open and close the valve the car was more stable. A tune can help with the retarded drops and keeping the revs up.

well what kind of stuff have you done to the car as far as engine or drive train just the smallest thing can cause the problem you are having also is the service engine soon light on ?

Still trying to iron this out on my car as well. Insanely frustrating sometimes. Initial tip in and barely touching the gas sends it into this mode where it goes lean rich lean rich and stalls. Even with idle set to 1100rpm and forcing throttle open more at idle doesn't help. My lightweight flywheel makes it really bad, but something recently caused it- thinking maybe messing with VE table

are you guys talking about rev hang

Lets say the bottom bolt and top bolt on the DI ECU are in to torque spec but the third bolt on the right isnt, could that cause the issue if im having the same problem? Sounds kinda stupid i know, im gonna get the bolt anyways but i would love to know

yes

I get this somewhat often too, albeit only during the first few drives from a reflash. Not sure what the issue was but once the idle has been fully learned it would never happen again.

wait a bolt missing in di ecu will give a different symptom

if di ecu is not good grounded it starts but it dies as soon as you touch throttle

if your car dies during instable idling after reflash is just a setting in the tune that fail to closed loop correctly the afr and timings during those unstable learning time for the ecu
Maybe cold start reduced and the maf scaling doesn t fit well in tgat particular time but it happens that those settings works good after ecu learned a few things