P0302 17 BRZ EDELBROCK SC/W DELICIOUS
 

Hey y'all, my DD decided after a few months to throw a cyl 2 misfire.

Background, swapped to a stage 2 daily by Southbend about 3 months ago. No issues until today. Fuel consumption has been normal. Plugs got changed in the last 6 months.

Driving home, I noticed a stutter at low RPM (2k ish.) After about a mile I got triple flash MIL. I nursed it back home. There's no obvious damage to cyl 2 (front left, someone please verify.)

Not gonna lie, my guess is the Delicious tune (which I have had repeated issues with.) Now I'm wondering if it fouled up my plug or something.

datalog https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/p030...11-29-32-33-52

So other than fighting to get to that plug, anything I should check? I F@*&*#G hate getting to these plugs... The connection looks good, is there a way to pin out the harness without it running?

Thanks for the support yall!

As i see for so many american cars, your is also affected by "racerom bugs" on US calibration

you can see from the PI % ration forced to 100% instead of use both the injections
that was not commanded by Delicious, but it is a severe bug never corrected by Ecutek (probably won t ever be fixed)

Said so , the cyl misfire so bad is not correlated to it. To start, I suggest you to try swapping the coil in cyl2 to another cylinder so to see if the misfire moves

Really? This is a known bug that EcuTek is aware of? Is there a work around? Does this cause problems for many with FI?

work around is to convert to euro tune, like Openflash does, it is possible also with ecutek but NO tuners ever do it
Ecutek ignored me about this when i wrote them, they don't care anymore ,their job with gen1 is over basically i bet

it cause problems with PI% usage during lift off and idle and low load and the calculation of injection when on boost... but the tuners usually just tune "over" it , in the sense that they will just put a different scaling on maf/Speed density to counteract and not even notice

the car would then drive mostly good, just not fluid at low speed and low throttle... i ve seen so many logs of american cars with this thing so i assume the tuners don't even notice and just proceed to tune as always
But then when you upgrade to euro tunes and everything becomes smoother, it s pretty obvious the difference

Anyway it does not correlate with the misfire problem of OP

I had the same thought, I'll probably run from 2 to 4 and see what happens. Is there an ohms check for the coil pack?

P0302 solved I guess. FML
 

Well, went to swap the coil from 2 to 4 and found half the spark plug in the coil from 2. Guess I don't need to do that test.

Anyone got a good engine shop around Clarksville TN?

how the hell did that happen my thought is it was drop by the part store and they just put it on the self there should be enough of the plug to get on to pill it out

Probably damaged during installation.

Why do you need an engine shop? The rest of the plug should just come out normally.

Not so much bud, I've got 12 years of professional experience and did the install myself.

I'm about to add new pics, but it looks like to plug core was blown out, I'm guessing too much fuel or pressure.

Definitely more than a hairline on the ceramic I think.

Anyone seen this before? The core is blown back into the body, no damage to the arms. I'm guessing too much fuel or boost?

Well looks like you can account for all the spark plug parts. That is a good thing. If not you may want to borescope that cylinder to check for damage. I like your statement “Not so much bud, I've got 12 years of professional experience and did the install myself.” That means you are not even a teenager mechanic yet. I am still on page of that plug was physically damaged prior to or during installation.

I was thinking about running my bore scope in there, but I have all the parts and the threads are fine.

I'm still confused about what damage could shove the plug core back 3/8".

If the ceramic is damaged enough to break it, could have been damaged enough to jar the center section loose and could have pulled back when whatever was still attached to it was pulled out with the coil. It's not that hard to remove the ceramic, guys do it all the time to make a DIY TDC tool.

Plug color looks like what I would expect with code P0302. Question is chicken or egg.

Chicken or the egg indeed. So possible theory
Ceramic was damaged prior to install
That causes the metal core to pop or break, along with the rear portion of the ceramic
The compression then pushed the electric and remaining core components back into the sleeve

I think I'll be taking the remnants to a good shop and getting an opinion. Maybe I just had a bad plug, I guess I can hope lol