TSSFab front subframe VS factory front subframe
 

So im here to clarify weights of something that alot is not mentioned about and say some very nice things about the TSSFab subframe for the ZN6 chassis.

To the point,

Factory subframe and supports: 24.4 lbs.

TSSFab subframe: 20 lbs. Shipped (only weight i have on it as i did not weigh or have access to a scale during install) this weight includes the supports.

Now for the good stuff, the quality was amazing! Install was easy, all the holes lined up perfectly.

The bad, kit came with bolts, however i had to go to lowes as there were some missing or the wrong bolts shipped for the steering rack. Was not complaining because the product was not affected by this. I regret not getting powder coat from TSSFab, i painted mine with high temp engine enamel 550° rated. Baked @250 for one hour. Meh is all i have to say 😂.

The drive home felt solid and more rigid, i couldnt tell what was different but something felt different on the drive home. The purpose was to gain clearance for my fat ass 3inch overpipe, alas this still did not solve my issue, again no fault on TSSFab as the product isnt really designed for that specifically as far as i know. I will be modifying the overpipe because it costs less than the frame plus i really like it and i have Megan racing mounts coming in the mail to assist in my rattling conundrum.

Photos

Overpipe still touches... unfortunately. Gonna have an exhaust shop notch it out or do something magical lol.

It’s cool but I wish it kept the threaded holes for the skid plate.

The skid plate is not installed in that photo, the skid plate still goes back on as far as i know, i just havent got around to it as i need to have my overpipe modded. I left it off for now and ziptied and duct taped the plastic down, i would NEVER recommend to ride around with no skid plate in these cars. I have a bent control arm bolt because of a manhole cover....needless to say it still can be aligned properly.

On the stock crossmember there are 4x m8 holes for the back of the skid plate but maybe they just aren’t showing up on the pics of this new piece.

Potentially cool part for the inveterate tinkerer. The lack of plate mounts would be a show stopper.

Unfortunately the supports are also missing holes for the transmission cover. So 2x covers that potentially can’t go back on.

I just swapped to gr86 front bracing but if I didn’t I would consider doing this and welding threaded bungs on. On their website they say this piece is 15lbs.

That’s unfortunate. Getting old gas (edit; HAS killed - my old age GAS is pretty deadly, too) really killed my motivation to do stuff like that.

Edit edit: what makes the GR bracing special?

The GR86/new brz have redesigned crossmember supports that allow for mounting a new boomerang shaped brace.

I always wanted a 2 piece crossmember brace after seeing STi and TRD offerings, but ended up settling with a 1 piece tanable brace. Big mistake, made the car too rough imo.

Then Toyota/Subaru comes out with this new design that now supersedes the STi draw stiffener, so I had to have it.

https://i.imgur.com/l5K9caw.jpg

But those side supports on the tubular crossmember look like they provide the same effect (being super rigid) as the new boomerang braces.

I can't get over how happy you were that you had to take your pants off for the first photo :D

Overpipe clearance sounds like an overpipe issue. My 3" clears fine with the stock subframe.

I see now...damn i wish id noticed this before hand, couldve had them weld some on :(
Yeah there isnt enough to hold it on

Can you give an idea what was involved in swapping the 2nd gen bracing in? Any mounting holes need to be drilled / tapped? Do all the underbody covers fit, etc.?

I have a used 2018 tS crossmember and flexible draw stiffener that I haven't got installed yet, but had thought doing about this swap instead...