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Brake Scheduled Maintenance
Starting to gather info on parts needed for a brake job. I can feel the brakes getting a bit soft and there is some squeal. I'm at around 45K Miles. My commute involves more in-city driving vs HW and it has increased ever since I got transferred to our bigger offices in a busier part of the city.
So far I have: -MTEC Brake Lines @spike021, I think you might've had a set you wanted to get rid of? -Centric Front and Rear Rotors -Pads: Stoptech Street Touring but I am open to suggestions, I could also go OEM. Unrelated side question: Im buying everything off 86speed as they have been reliable ever since I've had the car. I was browsing their Strut and Shock section and came across HKS Hipermax G set, single tube damper design. Spring rates are (N/mm (kgf/mm). F=28(2.9) R=45(4.6) I currently have, and plan to install soon the RCE Yellow Springs on OEM shocks. Any thoughts on the HKS G? @NoHaveMSG @DarkPira7e tagging you since you are very knowledgeable when it comes to these things. |
**EDIT**
I totally misunderstood and replied about the Hipermax S coilovers. I shouldn't be replying to anything until I have finished my coffee. I don't have a lot of knowledge on the technical side about what's going to be best, I think the important part is knowing how progressive these springs are (and as msg said, they don't provide a dyno) so you can kind of predict how they will react to sudden impact. As I had said in my previous version of this post, I've only driven around Fairfield/Bridgeport and on the Merritt- I'd lose teeth over how rough some of the roads are if I had to daily around there. I don't know if it'd be fun to experiment with a new shock/spring combo that could possibly be over-reactive. |
Hmmm nope not me.
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Never heard of that HKS setup til now. I looked them up and HKS G are a spec strut/spring combo sold together link here
Couldn't find hands on feedback but HKS looks to have valved the shocks for the spring rates. In theory those should ride great, I could not find anything on the site indicating ride height. Probably closer to stock with 2.9K front springs and limited bump travel. Yellows have a 4.5K front by comparison. Whether they would ride better than say a yellow/B6 setup is hard to say. Would be an interesting comparison of anyone lives near you with yellow/B6 should you choose to go with the HKS. |
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I found that to be odd too. There's no record on the forums for the specific strut configuration. Maybe Japan forums? Nor dyno info, which is odd for a manufacturer like HKS. Would I be willing be the test guinea pig? Maybe, I'll probably contact 86Speed and ask what they know about it. As far as my brake parts go, anything you might be able to suggest. Is that set up good or any recommendations? |
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You're right, I might have to go the "Pay it forward thread" and see who is the one that mentioned brake lines. |
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Do you only street drive? I think you have the right idea. I would probably just buy new OEM lines my self as I understand they're internally braided.(correct me if I'm wrong) Never ran that version of stop tech pads but for a street driven car that should do just fine. |
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Correct, I have the yellows, just yet to install them. I was going to purchase the B6 and just do everything at once. Im doing as much research as I can on these HKS before making a decision. As far as the OEM lines, I'd have to look it up. I've seen the suggestion to make the switch to SS lines so I thought might as well do it. I currently do not have an issue with brake response, rather feel, probably worn out or on their way (pads). There are so many pads out there so I didn't really know where to start. I could also just stick with OEM and call it a day. |
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For what it's worth, replacing my OE pads and rotors with Centric blanks and TRD pads helped me bring my car down much faster than OE and more than once, unlike OE. Still on stock lines. I haven't heard a peep out of the TRD pads either |
If you’re set on replacing the pads/rotors centric/stop tech are fine for a street driven car. I haven’t done the brakes on my BRZ yet but have used Centic plain coated rotors and posi quiet pads on my F150 and Camry with very good results. The replacement parts noticeably out perform the OEM parts, at least worn out OEM parts.
That said, 43k miles seems a little early to be wearing out pads. If you haven’t flushed the system yet, I’d do that first and hold onto the parts. If you want to replace then regardless it certainly won’t hurt anything and you might get better feel in the bargain. I run hot and cold on the stainless lines. Every motorcycle I owned after 1990 that didn’t come with them got them shortly after I bought it. Cars? I haven’t felt the need so far. My BRZ felt a little spongy when new. I replaced the fluid and installed a master cylinder brace and that tightened them right no up. I’ve done one fluid flush since. Didn’t notice any difference after. |
toyota maintenance intervals calls for brake fluid changes at 30k mi. if you haven't done that, i'd do that first.
commuting can also tend to glaze pads more from light repeated stops. try a few really hard 60-0 stops, the squealing should taper off. for commuting, especially on an '18, i don't think altered brake lines are really any sort of worthwhile investment. |
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I'm not dead set on the SS lines, just deemed it a "nice to have" if I'm already doing repairs in the immediate area. The only thing that lead me to believe that the pads are on their way out is the longer stopping distance, squeal, and slight softness on the brake pedal. I could just get a measurement tool and take a peek at how much pad is left. |
I understand the allure of SS lines. I guess it’s like wearing really sexy underwear that you have no interest letting others see. If it makes you feel good about yourself DO IT.!
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