Pillowball Question
 

So, I'm installing Vorshlag camber plates and RCE T2s. After tightening the top nut on one side, the pillowball is at least twice as stiff as the other side when I manually tilt the plate. I cannot remember if it started stiffer or not, but I think I would have asked about that earlier if it had.

By stiffer, I mean side A moves with just firm finger strength, and side B needs me to grab and move with arm motion.

Anyway, does anyone know what is going on here? Did I mess up the pillowball somehow? Should I even care about them being mismatched?

I don't think it's something to be concerned with, they probably need to wear in a little. The weight of the car will overcome any difference in friction resistance you can feel with your hands

My Kw CS plates were the same even when new with oem kw pillow balls, not a problem, after some driving if you check them out you’ll find them loser, it’s normal.

Recently I replaced those bearings with some fresh new Rodobal and they’re the same with one side slightly stiffer, totally fine to me.

Also…tight the top nut with an air gun or electric impact, just a couple click, or they’ll be lose.

Is it safe to check the top nut of the front suspension with a torque wrench once on the car? I know when I put the same camber plates on and compressed the springs on my T2s I used a ratchet strap to prevent the strut from spinning (2 man job). I don't want to damage my shiny new T2s [emoji1787]

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From my experience torque wrench is not enough: I did the same the first time and then I marked the position of the top nut to the shaft, then I gave it a quick bus with an electric impact and the nut went another 1/8 of turn in, this removed the pillow ball noises when hitting bumps.
The best way is to use an impact while holding the shaft with a strap wrench as you said IMO, you don’t need anything crazy just a couple clicks of your tool and everything will be properly tightened.

So I did use my Impact as recommend by RCE unofficially :)

Officially and unofficially I would highly highly recommend NOT using air tools lol. I'll leave it at that. Yes it's a pain to get that nut tightened...but please don't use air tools.

- Andrew

Contrary to the video you can use a torque wrench, you just need to use a crows foot socket or a torque adapter, this is exactly what they're made for. Amazon has a reasonably priced set, a friend gave me them some years ago and I've found them very useful. There is a minor adjustment to the torque value, but if you can put the crows foot at 90 degrees to the torque wrench there's no error.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03324A-...dp/B000N7DHFK/

I've literally never seen a brz/frs camber plate that needed a crows foot.

I just used a Harbor Freight passthrough socket set (and Allen wrench) with a luggage scale to torque down the nut.

I'm an idiot never mind :bonk:

I did use a Torque Wrench to tighten it down 95% and gave it a few clicks from my Impact on low speed to confirm it was tight.

So based on this they recommend an impact and you can check after the Strut/Shock is on if using their top hats. I am confused here :bonk::bonk: