Injector service, what else should I tackle?
 

Looking for a little advice/insight.

2013 BRZ with ~75k miles, with JRSC for about 1.5 years ~10k. Looking do pull all the injectors and have them sent out for service this summer now that the car is 11 years old. Wow, she's gonna be a teenager soon...

Anyways, in the name of preparedness while I've got the intake manifold off and the car down for a week or two, what else should be serviced/replaced? I've read several places from various car forums/articles the high pressure fuel lines should be replaced, they can be reused but its not recommended due to corrosion.

What else would be a good preventive measure? Forward/both 02 sensor(s)? Fuel pump? Any particular hard-to-reach vacuum or coolant lines that tend to poo the bed by 100k miles? VVT oil control valves?

Other stuff done recently- plugs, valve spring recall, and head/cam carrier gaskets (and coolant as well) were done at 60k in 2021. Last month I replaced the clutch due to a roached TOB, and checked oil pan pickup for stray silicone- there was some but it was minimal. Having the peace of mind was worth it after the valve spring recall but it appears they did a good job. The car has only ever had 91oct or better, (91 is our 93 at altitude). The only other problems I've run into have been a catch-can related vacuum leak throwing a code and replacing cyl 1 coil pack every few years.

There shouldn't be anything worth worrying about on top of the engine really at any mileage. Your hoses and lines should be fine for at least another decade or two, if not longer with advancements made with automotive materials being used.

I redid all of my injector stuff and re-used old hard lines. There shouldn't be anything corroding your hard lines.. if there's anything on it, you can be that after a wire wheel touches it, it'll look like new. If nothing is leaking, no sense in fiddling with gaskets either if they're not already leaking. Same with your 02 sensors, just let them be.

Replace your serpentine belt, make sure not to re-use any gaskets from things you've taken off- cleaning off the gunk from within the throttle body is a great idea too. Good luck!

The whole swap the hard lines thing is an issue with different cars, haven't heard of an issue with the twins. I know the older Duramax had issues with their hardlines, they were chrome lined and it would flake off and cause issues.

This is where you eyes come into play. Look everything over good. Replace anything that looks degraded or damaged.

Serpentine belt was new with the JRSC at 60k, still looks perfect. I'll definitely do IM and TB gaskets. I'm curious to see how much residue might be in there.

I saw a report showing internal pitting/corrosion as one reason, but otherwise everyone else says its due to the sealing surface deformation, same idea as reusing crush washers. One site (can't remember the vehicle) showed pretty reliable sealing after 1-2 reinstallations, but 3-4 would develop leaks at the fittings.

I'm having the injector shop install new DI seals, but I wasn't expecting this many seals to need replacement, geez. Referring to the 3 seals/o-rings on the port injectors and 6 on the direct injectors. I imagine the clips might not be necessary but sometimes they don't spring back to shape properly. If its all recommended then of course I'll do it, but sheesh. Are some of these just spacers that can be reused?

Well now, wheelhaus, I do believe in preventative maintenance, however, I also believe in that "iffen it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Unless any of the injectors are leaking or miss-squirting, I'd leave them alone.

:iono:

I would replace the high pressure fuel lines shop manual calls to replace them. I replaced my lines when I replaced my injectors granted I was at 170k miles when I did it. But the extra piece of mind of not worrying about having a high pressure fuel line leak was worth the $70 it cost. Just make sure to triple check everything when putting it back together, the port injectors sometimes don't seat right on the seals so they can leak. Happened to me once. Caught while running the engine after I finished putting everything back together.

Too often I use the alternative approach. Iffen bit ain’t broke I fix it til it is.

That's engineer talk!

PCV.
Remove and clean or just replace.

Definitely no external leaks, so I presume the o-rings can stay. I mean they're o-rings, you just replace o-rings right? They're over 10 years old now, but if that age is a non-issue then I'm happy to leave them be. The car is a daily, so it doesn't sit and rot. Well, maybe for some weeks during summer when its prime 2-wheel weather... Anyways, its the same reason why I replaced the rear main and trans seals when I did the clutch, technically they're not failing (yet), but I don't wanna pull the trans again down the road for something I could have addressed within 10 minutes while it was out.

Is there any other realistic way to check/diagnose flow issues/miss-squirting without pulling them for a bench service (aside from noticeably running rough/rich etc)? I figured this is a good way to ensure she's happy with boost for another 10 years.

A man after my own heart. :cheers:

Already on order. I've noticed some oil residue around it so its just getting replaced. I've had a few minor vacuum issues with the PCV side catch can, and the original PCV may have contributed.

It's a 2013...



If the Intake Manifold is off, it's a GREAT time to update the wiring harness and coil packs to 2015+.

I have heard mention of the harness upgrade, but haven't done a deep dive into it yet. Repeated P0351 misfires, ultimately cyl 1 coil pack failures, have happened like clockwork every 2-2.5 years.

Hell, I donno nuten bout fuel injected things. I fell off the pumpkin wagon when they quit putting these on engines.

Yep, life was simple, adjustments were made with two screws and if the float got stuck, ya jest rapped on the side of it with the handle of a screwdriver.

:iono:

The 2015 coils are vastly superior. However they aren't compatible with the plugs on the 2013/14 harness so to update the coil packs, one must also update the harness. This assumes a simple adapter from a 2015 coil to 2013 harness does not exist (it didn't when I updated mine). 3 Racing seasons, not a single failed coil.

I recently installed a 2015 motor into a 2011 forester and spliced in the later coils to the original harness. Not too involved.

I was curious about this, but not sure how sensitive the ignition system is in the BRZ under high temp/high load with spliced ignition wiring. Arguably a situation few Foresters will ever see.
There are adapters now (which I can't find anything negative about). The company that makes the adapters also sells pre-terminated pigtails. This option is really tempting; wire splicing is something I'm plenty comfortable with.

https://www.icefabrication.com/produ...grade-to-2015/

https://iwireusa.com/products/ignition-coil-plug-e


Regarding the harness itself, I'm finding some confusion with PNs. The TSB states the 2013 and 2014 use different update harness PNs, but the harness PNs for the 2015 and 2016 model years are both 24020AG080, same as the 2014 in the TSB. Is it not compatible with the 2013?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...31587-9999.pdf