OS Giken installation
 

I am finally getting around swapping in the OS Giken lsd into the spare diff. I am leaning on the experts on this forum to help guide me in case I am missing anything:

Attachment 218390

Instruction guides that I am using:
Parts Docs
BTR Justin's installation video

Parts I need to order:
2x Differential Carrier Bearing PN# 9036650001 (G5001)
10x Differential Ring Bolts PN# 9010111353 (38113)
1x FRSsport Diff cover gasket


Does anyone have a recommended guide or knowledge on how to check and adjust backlash? I inquired about this service at a reputable shop and unfortunately this isn't something they've done before.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I re-used the ring bolts with no problems.

I think I re-used the bearings too?

I did not unbolt the driveshaft in the center but did use new driveshaft to rear diff nuts and bolts.

I kept the OS Giken in the freezer overnight before pressing in the LSD ring; it went in easy.

Don't tell me ASC refused to adjust backlash, any decent performance shop should be able to do it.

As someone who works in the bearing industry I'd suggest changing the bearings for peace of mind. Compared to an LSD they are cheap and once its all back together at least you know its good for years to come.

Looking at these pictures, I think I did use new bearings...

Always use use new side bearings.
Ring gear bolts are highly recommended, as used ring gear bolts can sometimes loosen.

I appreciate the insight everyone!

Has anyone checked/adjusted their backlash? From reading BTR Justin's posts, it seems that it's pretty common for people not to check the backlash on these diffs. I wouldn't mind attempting to do it myself but unfortunately there doesn't seem to be enough installation guides for newbies to attempt it.

The factory service manual is invaluable in these cases. It goes through exactly what you need to do. Trust this over any internet guides.

In my experience you don't have to measure backlash, but you do need to check it. Essentially, you want there to be an ever so slight amount of play between the ring and pinion if you wiggle the input flange a bit. The tough part is evaluating the "ever so slight" part effectively. Too much play, and there will be an impact force when on/off throttle, and the gear teeth can crack. Too little play, and you can cause premature wearing of the gear teeth.

Always use new side bearings and ring gear bolts (with RED lock tite). And I always replace the output shaft seals because they are cheap and easy.

As for whether you "should" do this installation. I think it comes down to how mechanically inclined you are (not necessarily experience). If you are pretty good at understanding how things work, and figuring stuff out, it's not that difficult of a job, but it's also not for "newbies". However, if you are sort of nervous working on cars, and have trouble understanding mechanical systems, I would not attempt this. There is a lot that can go wrong, and result in anything from annoying loud whining to catastrophic failure that can cause injury or death, i.e. if your differential locks up at highway speeds.

Really !!


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Reported

Update: Got the diff installed!
 

Finally got around installing the OS Giken in the spare pumpkin using the new bearings and ring gear bolts:

Attachment 218923

To get the bearings installed flush, I used the inner race from the old bearing to press down all the way:

Attachment 218924

If you don't want to use a dremel like I did, I recommend getting a bearing puller or you may be able to find a sleeve that fits the same diameter as the inner race



Special shout out to @Code Monkey for helping me with the installation! (he basically did most of the work lol). I feel pretty confident in being able to do it on my own now.