Understanding the alignment specs
 

Recently got an alignment done and wanted to see if others could assist in helping me better understand the alignment results:

https://imgur.com/a/QHsgLDc

-How can you tell if the toe is IN or OUT? Wasn’t sure if “IN” represented inches or Toe In
-Is .01 basically 0 toe?
-Is .08 variance in camber significant delta ? I understand some shops will spend as long as possible to get the numbers dialed in exactly
-Do I need to be “concerned” about the caster spec? I’m just genuinely curious if this is something I really need to worry about in general.

Do you have a printout?

- Andrew

That's what you get not going to GTE. :D :bonk:

Rear should be toe in so it looks like front is toe in as well. If the toe is out in the rear, you would discover it really quick going through a turn. :D

I would not worry about the variance in camber, too small to matter.

That caster is most likely cross caster, it is fine.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_(automotive)

+ = toe in
- = toe out

Alignment looks good assuming it wasn't super expensive, better then I'd expect from like a $60-$80 chain store, but if you got charged over say $120-$150 you might be getting ripped off.

That is assuming there aren't parts limitations and instructions that conflict - if you told them maximum camber up front and they did max it out - that's on you, less then a tenth of a degree difference in camber - you're fine. Depending on parts you have in the rear there may not be much to adjust to improve it, but again less then 0.1 degree is negligible in my experience.

You can't get an alignment anywhere for less than $150 these days from what i've seen. Alignment looks good! Bit of toe in for stability on the highway is never a bad thing.

0.08 degrees cross camber is NOTHING. Stock, these cars have sometimes ten times that... you're good!

Slight & even rear toe-in helps also with stability in lacking grip situations, eg. in winter on snow/ice.
Camber variance is no big issue, imho it should go to >0.5deg for butt dyno to feel differences in right vs left turns. But it's not so with toe, +/-0.1deg toe right to left can change handling noticeably.
Imho even less one can notice caster variances.
From overall camber amount, car suspension seems not 100% stock, i don't think one can get as high negative camber on stock suspension without camberbolts/camberplates. Rear also seems to have extra camber, maybe due LCAs, maybe due lowering.
Overall seems reasonable light-track/street hybrid alignment with less understeer (and less variances) then stock alignment. I'd wish 0 toe in front, and a touch more rear toe-in, but that's nitpicking.

Sorry, for some reason the image didn't upload initially so I had to add it after posting it. The link should be there now.

:lol:

Thanks everyone for the feedback! I wasn't sure how to interpret the spec sheet.