New clutch problem
 

My clutch quit on me again today. Driving along stepped on the clutch and it felt a little light. Next shift the clutch was gone. I managed to jam it into 3rd gear to get home. Now the clutch petal has no resistance, and it stays stuck to the floor. I'm on my 3rd TOB now so I know the symptoms, but I hope it's not that.
I'm thinking it might be a master/slave cylinder problem. With the petal disengaged there is some play between the clutch fork and the plunger. I can push back on the plunger to get even more play. With the petal stuck to the floor, there's no play between the plunger and the fork, but the fork hasn't moved.
Any ideas on how to diagnose the problem? Has anyone had this problem before? And what did you do?
The car has 240,000 miles on it and I DO NOT WANT to drop the tranny again. That is my last resort.

Well, if you put the pedal to the floor and the clutch fork hasn't moved, it sounds more like a hydraulic issue.

Look at your fluid level, look for a leak at the master cylinder rod inside the car, a slave cylinder leak inside the dust boot, try to bleed it see if it comes back.

Try bleeding the system. If you have air in it, then the MC or slave has a bad seal and needs replaced. If it's not pushing fluid, likely the MC is bad.

The TOB could have seized, but that would have made quite a bit of noise and would have been noticeable.

Clutch fork could have broke. You may be able to pop the boot out of the way and peak down there to check. Or stick your phone down and take a picture with the boot out of the way.

With 240,000 miles on it, I would suggest you replace the clutch master and slave cylinders.

Merry X-mas present to you - ;)

That's a great idea. I don't think the fork broke and there was no noise but it seems like a great observation point to see what's going on without removing the whole damn thing. With a borescope you could see everything.

Great idea. Thanks.

And I thought I had a high mileage unit (165,000 miles)!

Congrats on hitting the 1/4 million mile mark, which I have no doubt you'll reach once you get your car fixed.

Well, my hopeful thinking didn't work out. I ended up having to pull the transmission again. 4th time. I sure hope it goes back together easier than last time.
Let's see if you can spot the problem.
At least it wasn't the TOB this time.

How can they build such a great reliable car with such a POS clutch mechanism?

And does anyone have a fork they want to sell? No I'm not getting the Versus.

I have a used stock fork you can have, just PM me. I'd check with a dealer though, they can't be that expensive and might be just as fast.

Thanks for the offer NoHaveMSG. I checked and the clutch fork SU003-00803 cost $21.05.
So I think I'll just go with a new one. The clutch disk SU003-00799 cost 69.57. The pressure plate SU003-00800 cost 139.29. And the TOB SU003-00802 cost 16.16.

Anybody see a pattern in the part numbers? I wonder what a SU003-00801 is?

NP, figured that would be the case.

00801 the pivot maybe? The subaru part numbers are different so my part number reference that I usually use doesn't match up.

That`e a sh!t go.

stock is fine, but honestly, it's really only 1 extremely vocal person against the verus, none of his issues have been analyzed outside of a single shop, no one's inspected the fork he had, and no one's reported a similar issue.

so if those single-vocal-poster threads are the main reason you don't want the verus, i think your trust is misplaced.

but stock is definitely cheaper and up to the job.

Is that the original fork? If so, 10 years and 240,000 miles ain't too bad. Given the history of this component in the older twins, it would prolly be a good idea to change the fork and pivot whenever you change a clutch.