Dream BRZ Build..Suggestions
 

I want a 2016 brz to build good for daily driving but I want a nice sound but not too much so it wakes the entire neighbourhood. Not only that but I want that power to match the sound because what's the point of having a car that sounds good but has no power to match it? I want it for daily driving but I wouldn't mind ripping it around the track. Any suggestions??

Subaru BRZ/FRS/86 2016 - 20,000.00 (rough estimate)

Wheels
18x8.5 30 5 x100 TE 37- $5000.00
225 /40/r18
0r
18x7.5 5x100 Prodrive GC-010E forged rims




Brakes

Engine
FBM Fa20 Stage 2 Head Package- $2,995.00
FBM Competition port and Polish intake and exhaust ports:
- Competition Valve Job
- Resurfaced and Clean and assembly
- Ferrea 6000 series Valve
- Ferrea Single Valve Springs (+1mm oversized)
- Ferrea Tool Steel Retainers
- Ferrea Seat locators and new valve stem seals

Stage 2 heads:
Stock Exhaust Flow @ .500 lift = 170
FBM Stage 1 & 2 Exhaust Flow @ .500 = 220
Stock Intake Flow @ .500 lift = 280
FBM Stage 1 & 2 Intake Flow @ .500 = 305

Stage 1 Cams:
Full Blown Stage 1 FA20 Cams- $1,395.00

Transmission

Forced Induction and Supporting Mods

SUSPENSION:
Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit Whiteline BSK020 - $494.82
Whiteline adjustable end links (Front)- $123.71
Whiteline adjustable end links (Rear)-
Whiteline Center/Bump steer correction Kit - $352.90


Intake
Perrin Performance Cold Air Intake Black BRZ - $420.00
Perrin Performance Inlet Hose Black for 13-16 BRZ - $120.00


Exhaust



Performance Accessories
???fuel pump
???fuel kit
????Belt and Pullets
??? Cooling lines

Body Kits and Accessories
Interior
Perrin Drift Button - $31.45
AEM boost Gauge
AFR Gauges



Exterior
Valenti GOLD edition 4th brake light$300.00
APR Carbon Fiber Mirror- $383.35


TOTAL: $31,616.23

Buy a Corvette.

Sounds like a great plan for a DD.

Sounds like you are wanting two completely different things.

500-800HP Track Car != Daily Driver, no matter what you do.

What kind of racing are you planning to do? Have you raced before? Looking at your build sheet, you have little to no suspension upgrades, but a ton of performance upgrades like you plan to just drag race.

As much as you probably don't want to hear it, I would suggest starting out small. Buy the car, take it to the track stock and learn how to drive it, then slowly mod it. No need to go balls to the wall with a fully built turbo right out of the gate.

Don't bother with a built engine or heads, cams. Get the turbo kit, run at 10-12psi and it's going to be great.

I like my car but your budget is a 20k car w 27k added to it. Not including labor, maybe it’s your own.

You checked out a Supra?

"500 hp is a good start I don't want anywhere above 800hp" was all I needed to read.

Ask your parents for a Ferrari for your 17th birthday.

lmao

looks like you have a realistic approach. I would budget an additional 20% for the unknown. You can make it reliable but it will take time. Don’t expect to put it together and it be reliable you will have to work out some bugs. One of the issues is you are getting above the transmission capabilities for reliability.

Get the car first, focus on a build second imo. I do want to point out that you're missing supporting mods for such a high powered venture; oil cooling, clutch, potentially transmission, to name a few.

This. A used C6 Z06 is right in that price range.

Same.
Anyone remember Nick Hogan???
OP sounds like him.

This is exactly where I thought this would go.

that's a lot of money just to run to the gas station for smokes every once in a while.

Might see a mini van at a stop light. Never. Again.

Maybe he needs beer and condoms also? Wait he will not have any left over money for a Girlfriend so just beer and lottery tickets.

Meh
Posted his shopping list at 10:27
Logged out at 10:48
Has never logged back in.

Normally I would call them a Bot with that user name, one post and gone but if it is it is a very ambitious one to make up that list.

Guess we wait and see if links appear in an edit.

That's a lot of work to make a dream list like that with all the costs calculated up just to troll

Yep. Unless you sell all that stuff and just want the name out there.

It is also a lot of work to make up that list, join the forum, post it, then immediately disappear.

Could also very well be just a wish list of somebody that will never ever do any of it anyway. God knows we have seen many of those over the years.

There is a lot fishy about the whole thing no matter how you cut it.

How long until bots no longer let humans access internet? Something like skynet minus the nuclear holocaust. Sarah Connor shaking her router in slow motion desperation.

it's easy to mod a car in forza. wait until he realizes that the list he posted would take at least a year after he bought all the parts, he wouldn't be able to use the car at all during that time, and if one pays a shop to do all of it, it's likely double in labor costs...

FTFY.

Also maybe he pays his way by being a man whore for other men.

That list looks like my shopping cart on CarID whenever I'm on a self-loathing spree.

Lol this seems like the typical troll to trigger twin owners about horsepower. Similar to the whole comparing it to some high horsepower car totally unrelated to a twin.

Pretty sure it is a kid like Tcoat said.

All power, some random chassis parts that are not needed, spec'd for 225 tires, tons of cosmetics. Don't need adjustable endlinks with stock suspension and the RC/bumpsteer correction kit is for cars that are lowered since it fucks up the geometry a bit but he doesn't have coilovers in his list.

don't forget the $500 prs sound creator intake tube. i'm still not entirely sure what it does. but it does "increase power" and "improve throttle response"

you know i've seen a device that promised the same thing before, that was nothing more than a light bulb that got stuck in the car.
https://truck-drivers-money-saving-t...page_image.jpg

Is that a buttplug powered by a cigarette lighter slot? Genius

Like how they highlighted "temonials" and "guranteed" but misssed "mo mechanic".

I put one of those on my car along with the tornado and magnet around the fuel line. I have to drain fuel out of my car every week now to keep it from overflowing!

I can not believe people fall for this stuff, our society is doomed.

i can.

"make something idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot"

https://www.amazon.com/LuLaRich-Season-1/dp/B09CFXPNSX


back in the day, all these people died off quicker with environmental hardships, and a lack of OSHA. now every life is precious.

The longer I live the less precocious life becomes.

I am not a bot if you want me to prove it I can. Maybe I am ambitious with the list but I am fairly new to cars and trying to get some more insight. I have made some edits I just don't know how to update the thread.

if you're new to cars, learn on the car first. this is an excellent vehicle for learning anything on. it's somewhat easy to work on, parts are plentiful, and the chassis is very responsive to showing you what does and doesn't work. but you need to have the seat time beforehand to feel the car out to be able to feel the difference.

wheels are fun to change, but are entirely aesthetic until you've reached the upper echelon of any motorsports racing category that the weight can actually make you a faster driver. a fast driver can make better wheels faster, but better wheels don't make a faster driver.

motors are interesting, but keep in mind that the subaru built the original motor to be 100% reliable well over 100k miles. once you start changing parts, or adding power, the entire motor with all it's tiny parts, reliability becomes a gigantic question mark. and once you start diving into the aftermarket to solve all the reliability question marks, that means yet another component that has a lead time if it fails. it's also a race to 'the weakest link'. sure, you can upgrade the block, the connecting rods, the pistons, the valves. but no one makes an aftermarket bolt-on oil upgrade for this motor. no one makes better timing chain guides. no one makes an improved '500hp' wheel bearing...

there's a thread in the performance section on the driveshafts that went haywire because it turns out that the oem drive shaft is still one of the best options, despite not being rated for big power. every drive shaft has a critical speed maximum.

it's a question of what you want to break when something breaks. i like to keep my breaks to things that are easily accessible.

my car might be boring being stock, but i can guarantee that if any common part fails, i can just run down to the auto parts store or the dealership and get a replacement. it'll be in stock, and have the car ready to go by the end of the day.

but aftermarket, you now need to deal with specific brands, specific parts, and they're always on the opposite side of the country.

i learned this a while back with r/c trucks. every hobby shop stocks the stock traxxas parts. they're only nylon, and launching the truck off a 10' halfpipe breaks a lot of things, no matter how fun it is. so this leads to the rabbit hole of searching out all the aluminum/titanium parts that make up the truck to make it survive 'falling in style' from 20' up. but most of those parts are at least 1-2 weeks out for every single order.

so i ended up facing a choice. i was going to keep going to the skate park with the truck, and i was going to keep launching it off the halfpipe.. i could keep the stock nylon parts, let them break, replace as needed, ready to keep doing it every day repeatedly, or i could upgrade everything to much stiffer parts, and likely be down for many weeks at a time waiting by the front door for the replacement.

i was mostly breaking a-arms, shocks, a-arm mounts, and drive shafts. as soon as i upgraded any of these few parts to a stiffer version, it would transfer the shock load to other parts. so then instead of just those few parts right near the wheels that were easy to access, now i'd need to replace the more central and buried components like the main chassis rails, the shock mounts, and the center drive shafts. all of which are much more difficult to get to.

so that was how i decided to intentionally keep using the stock traxxas truck parts, despite knowing they would break, and knowing how they would break-- because they were easy to replace.


cars aren't all that different really. once you exceed the design parameters of the original manufacturer, you're on a journey by yourself. everything wears faster. suddenly parts that were considered 'lifetime' need to be replaced, and sometimes replaced often.

you've done a nice job of figuring out your costs to build what you want. but keep in mind that the initial build is only part of the equation.

you're going to have recurring costs. and there will be down time for the vehicle while a BOV suddenly sticks, or an engine tune suddenly doesn't work out that takes weeks to figure out with a tuner.

a custom-built, custom-powered car like that could easily start costing closer to $80k over the course of 4-6 years of ownership, and you might only get to drive it every other 6 months over that 6 years. you need to have somewhere to park the car while working on it, and you need to have another reliable vehicle to deal with the down time a build like this could take.

what it's worth to you is a personal question. maybe all that's worth it. but to a lot of people, myself included, it's not.

Ambitious is a complete understatement. With your shopping list you can pretty much count on the car being broken more than it runs. If you truly want to learn you need to dial all that back about 90%.
Reading about all that stuff and actually doing it are two very very different worlds.

Do you currently own any vehicle? Thats the starting point.

I'd suggest doing more research on built engines, NA builds especially. You are pretty much lighting your money on fire with minimal returns.
OEM engine with a basic turbo or supercharger kit has similar MSRP around 4.5-5k and nets 100whp. You give up some reliability but that's how adding boost to a non boosted engine goes.

HKS makes a stroker kit with cams and it makes all of 10hp or so more over an OEM sealed engine with the same bolt ons.
https://www.hksusa.com/application/f..._FA20_2.1L.png

“Precocious” or “Precious?” Doesn’t really matter, I guess - I’m with you either way.

LMAO...I noticed that everyone else is keeping this thread alive!

Either way, that guy's budget plan is way south of his target goals...sadly, I can speak from personal knowledge because I am on a build similar, but way better lol.

Regardless, the shit is not cheap by any means!

Haha, my bad for bumping this thing back up again.

I wanted to reference your build as what to do for a dream build.