my lug stud broke...
 

So i was swapping to winter tires, and one of my stud nuts was incredibly hard to remove. Usually just stomping on tire iron provides enough torque to loosen the nut, but this one didnt move. after a few stomps it just broke off. Theres just barely enough stud to fasten a nut to with the winter tires on.

This wheel also happens to have my other compromised stud (stripped at bit, but still usable) so i can just replace both at once.

I have had no issues with the remaining 3 studs (so far), and the rest of the wheels have had no issues either.

Im wondering if i should just replace all 5 studs instead of just the two since the wheel hub will be opened up.

front or rear?

rear, drivers side.

I'd struggle on all of them

You can pound out the rear studs and play with them until you get the right angle to get them out, then put in standard length arp studs. Extended studs are too long to do this on the rear.

Ya, find a set of replacement ARP studs and get a long handled torq stick (wrench). Jumping on a lug wrench is likely a recipe for bad news, similar to using an impact to put lugs on. Swapped all my studs last winter after having similar issues from PO taking it to shops who'd use impact guns on splined nuts.

+1 for harder ARP OEM length studs if you want a one and done solution.

Otherwise if the other stud threads are in good shape and spin easily by hand I'd leave em and toss OEMs in where needed.

If ya got the money and the time get it over with and change them all to
ARP ones.

I've heard of studs breaking from several Subi owners on various platforms. Is this as wide-spread of a problem across the brand as it seems to be?

Years ago I had a couple break on an Outback Wagon I owned at the time, but thought it was due to age of the car and poor service by the previous owner. Now I'm starting to wonder.

Glad to hear there is an aftermarket option.

Seems to be. Never had a problem on any other car. Changed to ARP and never had a problem again.

This is the answer. CSG has OEM length ARPs in stock.

Just a thought on your (lug) nuts. When I installed ARP studs, I purchased Gorilla nuts. These came with a specific socket that you have to keep track of. If left on the ground, it will always roll to the center of the car or some other hard to reach place. When you need it, is it in the center console, glovebox, tool kit, or somewhere in the trunk?

Solution? I got Mcgard(?) lug nuts. It's 13/16". I use an old spark plug socket and a 3/8" breaker bar that I switched out in place of the stock lug wrench

When this happened to me years ago I just got some Dorman replacement studs from NAPA. Much harder and sturdier than the OEM studs. I just replaced the broken ones because it is a PITA and I just wanted to drive the car lol.

I haven't broken any oem studs that were appropriately torqued. Of course the PA state inspection techs don't use a torque wrench, but that's not my problem anymore lol.

I had an issue with the dealer who totally screwed up my studs and i ended up breaking 2 off before taking it back to the dealer to have them replaced.


the ARP lugs are great but if you want to keep the OEM studs here's what you need to do:


under no circumstances let anyone else installing the wheels use an impact gun.

the way you described how you're removing them sounds like you were putting pressure on the stubs beyond the pressure is supposed to be distributed.


its not big deal to use an impact to take off the lugs (1/2 drive impact)
before putting the lugs back on use either some pressure lube or anti-seize
start by hand threading, then you can zip them on with a 3/8 impact if you have one but don't drive them into the wheel once they stop turning.
use torque wrench to tighten them the rest of the way.


I have been doing this and have had ZERO issues with my OEM studs.