Need help with junkyard fa
 

So long story short I blew my 2015 frs motor from a hole burned into my wastegate line and I found a long block at lkq in a 2013 frs. Brought it home and swapped everything over from the 2015 motor (direct injectors, all sensors except knock sensors, <4k mile HKS SPARK plugs, coils, mechanical fuel pump, flywheel, + some other stuff I’m probably forgetting). I’ve double checked the whole wiring harness, tried a new battery and had it jumped by a truck trying to start it with no success so far. I checked for spark on cylinder 1, there was. I tried spraying starting fluid into the pcv port on the intake manifold and it doesn’t seem to make a difference, so I don’t think it’s a fueling problem either. I’ve tried both crank positions sensors and made sure I didn’t forget the timing plate behind the flywheel to see if ignition timing was off. Haven’t been able to do a compression test because I’m not sure a regular kit will work in the tight space. I’m out of ideas at this point, so I thought I’d ask here before giving up on the motor. I also have a video of what it sounds like cranking here

https://imgur.com/a/OU3O0MN

Not currently with the car but should be able to work on it again this weekend. just wanted to get some ideas on what I could check before I get back.


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I did compression testing by jacking one side of the engine up. Loosen the opposite nut so the engine will pivot.

Did the junk yard do leak down or comp testing? You also might make sure your battery is fully charged or even try a new battery.

Thanks for the tip, I’ll have to try that to check compression. No, the junkyard just sold me the motor as it was. It didn’t come with the direct injectors, so it wouldn’t have been able to make compression there anyway. I actually did try a new battery and even had jumper cables hooked up to an f150 while I was trying to turn it over. If it makes compression I don’t know what else it could be, but I guess I’ll have to see.


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Make sure that all ECUs and fuse blocks are screwed down and firmly in place. We have seen a few cases where these were not in place and grounded during an engine replacement so the car would not start.

Oooof, I can't say I envy you picking up an engine with a broken seal "as is". The last engine I installed that came with the intake off was a hemi from LKQ and it grenaded the instant it started. Butterfingers who took it out dropped something in the back two cylinders. It's less of a risk on an inline engine with the ports horizontal, but on a V or boxer, it's a risk. The people who take those out aren't really master techs.


Speaking of risk, even if it's cranking slow or is a no-start, it should not be making that LOUD tapping noise. I would stop trying to crank it and find out where it's coming from, because that's what the grenaded hemi i just talked about sounded like. Borescope it, but it may be too late.

I’ll be sure to check for anything but I gave the engine a shake with it sitting on a tire to try listen for rattles as a test and didn’t hear anything but I’m not sure if I would have heard it anyway though. I think the tapping is the engine firing really weakly but I could be wrong. I didn’t replace the Teflon seals on the direct injectors when I swapped them over so that could be causing a compression leak, but even then I don’t see how it could be big enough to not let it start


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I saw something about the grounding bolt on the efi ECU on here somewhere. Weirdly enough I was actually not running the bottom bolt on the old engine and it didn’t give me any issues, but I found a bolt that fit and gave it a shot with no success. Other than that I didn’t touch the other ECU or fuses box other than checking for blown fuses. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to make sure the fuse box is in place, but is there anything other than those 2 in the engine bay I could be forgetting about?


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Enough speculation. Test compression.

If it's good, buy new DI seals, clean everything, and carefully reinstall direct injectors.

That tap/pop is nasty. Is that the sound of cylinders firing through leaking DI seals?

Honestly engines I've heard in person with leaking injector seals were merc OM612 and OM642 and the Aprilia DiTech and they all sure as hell didn't sound like an M6 nut getting smashed into a combustion chamber.

Sounds mechanical, but is intermittent. I've never heard the pop, but is it even possible to reuse DI seals?

It's an alarming sound, for sure.

I reuse them all the time on the WV EA888. I sadly have taken off a great many CCTA fuel rails. That time I had to do a Nissan Juke they went back in perfect too. BMW puts them on top of the head, so there's never a need to reuse the seals because if you're taking one out it's to replace it, and those f*ckers come out with a slide hammer anyway.

I have learned quite a bit this week.

Just finished checking compression,seamed to be good, around 150 psi on each cylinder. I really don’t think it’s the direct injector keeping it from starting but I’ll order new ones either way. Kinda stumped as to what else it could be at this point


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That's low. Minimum is 165. Normal is more like 250 but, as long as they're all even, maybe it's ok.


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