Another update.

So first things first, I checked all the fuses I swapped out for continuity and they were all okay. I was able to start the car three times back to back this morning, that of which happened after I forgot where the stop light fuse went, yet the only issue was that the ABS light was still on. I left it for an hour, put the fuse back in, and the car didn’t start again. Took the same fuse out, no start. I installed a new battery, and still no start. I did this DC Amp test (saw on Chrisfix YT channel) to check for parasitic draw where I disconnected the negative terminal, set my multimeter to DCA and put the positive lead on the negative terminal on the battery, and the negative lead on the negative terminal going to the car. Here’s a photo for an idea. The meter read -.20 but fell off to -.05, then 0.00 after prolonged contact. When I took breaks in between eventually it dropped all the way to 0.00 with no change. I replaced the left turning signal for peace of mind. I put in the replacement fuses for the ABS, the #13 under the dash and #13 in the box up top.

Brake pedal is hard after turning the car off. I’m wondering if it’s the stupid clutch switch or the starter harness, but that would contradict my parasitic draw test. Is it possible the ABS will trigger if I need new brakes? That doesn’t make sense to me bc the brake fluid will compensate but at this point I’m running out of ideas.

Fuck me... Try this.


Take out the stop light fuse again and disconnect the battery for a few secs. Then reconnect the battery with the stop light fuse still removed. Does it start?

are we sure this isn't the immobilizer circuit?

it's starting to be the only thing that makes sense anymore. i don't know if the key-type immobilizer on these cars just controls the fuel pump or if it prevents the starter from turning over...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3K0ntbc024

Boys…we might have done it.

So in a drunken rage, I snipped off a part of the little wire that slides onto the solenoid and pried it open. Gunk everywhere, so cleaned that out. I looked up how to bypass the relay with a wire and tried that to make sure the solenoid was okay which it was. I clamped the end of the wire to the solenoid back on, and tried it. Nothing. Went to the relay, swapped with the large horn relay. Nothing. I then said fuck it, had my cousin start the car while I used the wire to turn on the starter, and we just let it sit. I drive it to Oriellys and tested the alternator which was good. Bought a continuity bulb tester and tried it out on the now restored end to the solenoid, and we now have continuity. PLUS, I don’t know wtf happened, but it seems the relay we swapped is now working like a charm. Don’t know why it didn’t work before and don’t care. I can at least get around and to work. Once I get paid, I’m going to take it to the dealer and ask for a new main harness. What I have now looks so damn Mickey Mouse I won’t trust it running with the car for the next couple months.

Thank you guys so much for all your help. I learned so much from this, and I almost had to pay $1100 at the dealership to “fix” this, which I doubt they would have because last time they gave me a battery that was too big and was probably the reason why my fuses were all burnt like that.

Now onto the next issue. My clutch is practically useless bc I can just push my shifter into any gear without engaging the clutch pedal.

Thanks a lot boys!

i used to have a ford ranger that the turn signal would go wonky every few weeks. the fix? take it out, drop it on the ground a few times, and then reinstall. it'd start working again for a while...

Popcorn emoji