How do i put stock headers (with the stud bolts) back in?
 

For the life of me I can't figure it out.

I've seen "loosen the bolts on the overpipe to front pipe" and tried that. The thread I got it from even said just loosen the bottom one. I dont know how you can make that work

The stud bolts not being removeable on the headers is really messing me up.

I dont know how I got it off the first time. I replaced both headers + overpipe with gruppe-s. I had the overpipe loose and then just wiggled the headers until it popped off, even though people online had said you'd need to remove the heat shield on the overpipe to get it off. I am not having such luck in reverse.

I really dont freaking get it. Every video and guide just glosses over this. I realize I'm incompetent and theres little things you have to "figure out" when you're working on stuff

EDIT: those of you who have done it with the overpipe loose, do you connect the headers to overpipe first? Can someone describe the technique in more detail I'm 3 hours in at this point just trying to get the stock headers back on.

I just saw a video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXCyLEhPD4A) where the person literally does nothing to the overpipe. Just wiggles. So do I just need to commit harder mentally and get it done? It seems impossible but if I'm just failing and I'm not missing any info Ill go back to muscling it

I've just been crying and forcing it. The header to engine is 6/6, the header to overpipe is 1/2. The bolt closer to me is sitting below the hole.

At first I loosely put one bolt to the engine on each side so as to not lose progress. But it looks like its the orientation of the overpipe not the headers thats causing problems. I'm not sure. I finger tighted more bolts to the engine to keep the header closer to its final position and now I'm looking for a hammer to hammer the overpipe side.

nvm i got it.

if anyone else finds this:

I loosened all the header - engine nuts i had previously fastened. Then i started screaming and wiggling the header. Then i got a wrench and tried to pry the overpipe downwards while also pushing the header-overpipe connection upwards (in the same pry motion). It eventually fell into place.

it is physically possible, everyone else just glosses over it, get it done you stupid baby

A muffler shop could do those installs for $40. Hassles free

I will be doing this shortly to pull my gruppe-s header and swap in my decatted OEM header until the JDL arrives..

Did this once before by unbolting the overpipe from the front pipe to gain extra room. Overall PITA. Fortunately the gruppe-s overpipe I had installed had removable studs and lots of antiseize, after pulling the studs I lined up the FP then reinserted the studs to the OP.

This time I plan to unbolt the front pipe from midpipe, pull the 14mm bolt from the front pipe and move the FP/OP as one piece. Should provide more than enough room to slide the header in and reconnect easier.

With the factory OP installed that method may require the engine to be lifted a bit by pulling the passenger engine mount bolt to get enough room to slide the OP around.

Do you think OP is worth? Considering to buy the Gent5 (same as Grouppe S) but idk if it's worth the hassle or save up for JDL Ultra quiet FP

For UELs it doesn't seem to be that important, at least based on other information burried in the forums. If you can get one cheap why not. When I got the gruppe-s it was a $150 add on to get the overpipe included. Seperately they're $300 to buy.

The JDL pipe is a nice piece. They sell a front pipe/overpipe combo as well.


Edit: are you running the JDL 4-2-1?
I'm upgrading to a 2.5" to match the JDL 2.5" outlet. No hard data to compare stock vs upgraded. More piece of mind.

you serious? kuz at this point in my life I realize I dont need to LARP as vin diesel. Ill pay a real man to do it.

EDIT: Ill call for a quote, but 40 seems pretty low

Nah kuz then Id have to find a good shop around me. I went and bought a thread chaser and anti seize and gaskets to do all of it right. And this would have taken me just 3 hours (including finding all my tools) if it wasn't for getting the stock header back on, putting the aftermarket without the built-in studs should be like 2 hours tops

I would replace the OP. Doesn't make sense to go 2.5" to 2" to 2.5" etc. I would try to match all interior diameters in the exhaust system. Don't get the Gent5 overpipe tho. It's only 2.25"/57mm.