It can be a bit confusing if a person doesn't know what the class rules are. NASA ST/TT4 is power to weight class so that's where the limitation comes from. I will be running in other classes and unlimited style ones for things like GTA/SLB and GL in which all of the power will be attempted to be used. ST4 is my primary focus though.

RedReplicant hit it on the head, it will make 240whp from idle to a 8k rpm redline and sound fantastic while doing it. One of the main reasons I went down this powertrain path was to combat the BMW's that are doing basically the same thing in ST4 but I decided to turn the knob to 11.

Much stopping power! I decided to throw on the front brakes last night to make sure fitment is good and was very pleased. Sakebomb garage makes a great kit that you can upgrade a little bit as I chose to do so. Wilwood superlite calipers that use 20mm thick pads, APracing 325mmx32mm 70 vane floating rotors. Kit comes with all nicely plated hardware, jet nuts and floating clips. Rotor hats and mounting brackets are nicely anodized and machined well. Rotors come pre assembled. Wheel spoke clearance is beyond safe as well, I can shove my hand in between the caliper and spoke.
https://i.imgur.com/cBUd1cs.jpg

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Dont mine my rusty as parts :bonk: I need to get to doing the suspension soon.

I think your rotors are on the wrong side of the car.

Correct! So, no one use these pictures for rotor direction reference!

That'll teach me to throw something on the car and not pay attention if I'm taking pictures! :bonk:

Finally getting a little time to work on my own car again, after life deciding it was time for me to get pounded for a bit. A huge pile of parts has amassed over this hiatus :D and the engine pieces are at the machine shop getting done.

Started the ball rolling again by beginning to design the wing mounts. Still need to trim a bit of fat off them then I can use my new 3d scanner on the templates to finish the design in fusion :thumbsup: much excite! These are just 6mm alumacore and the final piece will most likely be .250" 7075 AL. I was thinking about using carbon but it would be almost 1k for 2 stupid mounts vs 250.00.
Don't mind the hood in the pic, I need to finish trimming the bottom and install the aero latches.

https://i.imgur.com/DRjXuLU.jpg

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Engine bay hasn't change much. Finished the coolant tank, breather tank and welded the v-bands on the headers but thats it.

https://i.imgur.com/slCcKXq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IqXRQEH.jpg

Interior is going to take a little turn as I got my dash from HGK in, sadly no pic as I'm a dummy but you'll see it soon. I plan on moving the fluid reservoirs but the haltech, aim pdm and most electronics will be under the dash on a panel and the dash will be attached with quick turn fastners.

https://i.imgur.com/8F8OjMo.jpg

Thats it for now but I'm excited to get rolling again! :cheers:

Love those rear wing mounts!

All the other cars are out of the shop so now I can devote all my time to my own! :cheers:

New suspension pieces are getting hung and fitted. All the SPL goodies you can get other than the rear end links as I don't like SPl's links since they are not adjustable on vehicle so I went with RacerX on those. Hotchkiss front bar, stock 15mm rear bar. ARP studs all around and new SKF hubs.

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Wing mounts were finalized, 3D scanned and we just need to convert the file to STL then send off to be cut. Very excited to get those back.

My goal is to have the car on track by oct 14th for the final race of the year and probably the last race ever at Heartland Park (my home track basically) as there was a big debacle over the taxes with the owner and state. Probably a lofty goal for me but I'm gonna try. Pretty much all parts are in hand other than hoses/tubing/ends for the plumbing. Scheduling dyno time and trying to shake down before the race weekend will be very tough, might end up being a shake down weekend and run in U class with a rough street tune :burnrubber:

Finished rough alignment and torqued everything suspension/brake wise along with installing the verus brake cooling kit yesterday. Everything went together as expected thankfully, though I do still need to set track width to be within the rules before proper alignment/setup.

https://i.imgur.com/hPhCIyx.jpg

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Modified the inlet ducts for the hoses as they mount them on the backside of the bumper which makes for a semi loose fit but by mounting them on the front side and shaving down the outer edge of the tube it has a tight fit against the fog lamp bezel. Overall its a pretty good kit.

https://i.imgur.com/NeDFfdD.jpg

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And yes, that is the direction stoptech says for rotation, plus they have stickers on them :bellyroll:

Exhaust materials have arrived so I can get that knocked out, then get that and the various other engine parts like valve covers and intake manifold over to the cerakoter as that's going to take a couple weeks to get done.

Much progress made over the past couple days, feels good to see things coming together!

Exhaust is 75% complete, I'm just waiting on the muffler and some various materials to finish it. I will also insulate the floor/tunnel before re-assembling, along with various other heat control items.

https://i.imgur.com/eLhuC0m.jpg

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Oil cooler and remote thermostat/filter Housing.

https://i.imgur.com/3qF1K9r.jpg

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New hood fitted, I will be enlarging the vents and doing a little more trimming but overall, it looks great!

https://i.imgur.com/A6TYTGN.jpg

Kinda crappy pic but the diff and trans coolers are mounted but I still need to finish ducting out the decklid for proper ventilation.

https://i.imgur.com/j6lsWgy.jpg


:cheers:

Looks awesome.

The exhaust looks a little close to the steering rack. Any plans for insulation there?

Yes. I plan on making shields with an air gap for the sway bar bushings, rack/intermediate shaft, driveshaft - since its carbon and fully insulating/wrapping the floor/tunnel. Just some 1/8" or 1/16" aluminum with DEI adhesive backed fiberglass mat shaped around things. Plus the whole exhaust will be cerakoted which helps a little bit as well.

Thanks!!

Little test fit of the dash. I am quite impressed on the quality and the initial fit of this, starting to wish I picked the carbon one but it was about 3 times the amount and for an item that's only purpose is to look pretty I couldn't justify that. I might have this dipped or painted once everything is said and done though.

https://i.imgur.com/4rFDzIa.jpg

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Will most likely move the brake reservoirs unless I can make it quickly removable by using quick turn fastners. I do plan on mounting the pdm, ecu and other various electronics under it. Figuring the abs unit will go behind the passenger seat and or on the rear of the tunnel before the firewall. Will need to move the park brake as well. One change creates more!


:cheers:

You sent me down a rabbit hole with those bellows, I'd always figured they just for heat expansion. Very cool :)

Are you using a custom brake/ABS system?

Love those bellows! If it helps, I source pretty much everything material wise from Vibrant.

Yes, MK60 teves with CSL programming. It's the limit of the ST/TT4 rules. If and when I decide to move up in classes or pursue other events, I can program it with the continental teves race program via RHT motorsports for a small fee.

I'm pretty excited for the ABS along with traction control via Haltech. I've driven cars with them installed but never owned one!

Have you already bought a unit yet?

If you have I can help you set CSL params, unless you already know what is up there. If you haven't then MK60E1 from a Euro E90 318D (845.3 unit, ebay search of 6789300 3789301) since:

* They are ST4 legal
* They don't have external pressure sensors to break and yeet you into another car or wall when they fail and you lose all brake pressure
* They can also be reflashed by the same dude Doug uses in the UK (though the difference is minimal at best)
* They cost like $45 shipped instead of whatever crackhead prices people want for an 813.3 or 817.3 now
* They use the same plug as the MK60E5 if NASA decides to make it legal or you move to 3

All new to me so help is appreciated! I have no clue on the programming part as I haven't dived into that yet. I have an 817.3 that I got at a decent price with the associated sensors, all new connectors and such. It took a bit to find the autotechnik billet adapters for the sensors. Nice thing is I can use the factory wheel speed sensors with this unit unlike the E5 and not have to fab brackets or mod sensors to fit them in the knuckles. I like plug and play!

I spoke with Greenbaum on the E5 and they vetoed that option for 4. I tried to find a E1 when I was looking for all this stuff a long while back and it was still like $500 usd for one so I just went with the semi local 817.3 that had a bunch of stuff with it that I probably won't use haha. I also found bosch motosports pressure sensors via a guy on the FB group after his popped. Looking at them they appear to not have the failure point like the OE ones do (no adhesive based attachement point). Granted they were like 200 for the pair but like you said better than death :cheers:

Ahh, alright, fair enough :)

Good call on the good sensors, totally worth it. Just shoot me a PM when you decide you want to program it, all you need is a working INPA / NCSExpert setup and I can walk you through it. I wrote instructions on MiataTurbo a couple of years ago but it still isn't the easiest thing to follow without pictures.

Exhaust all finished up and parts are off to get coated! Hopefully turn around is decent, seems I end up waiting forever when I outsource things :thumbdown:

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Dash is mounted, canbus pad fitted and starting the process of placing items in the car. Got the wing and mounts finalized but I have it all apart with paint drying or there would be pics of that. :thumbsup:

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I am sorry if I missed it earlier in the thread... where did you get the dash? Link, if possible.
Thank you!

It looks like the Fiberglass HGK dash, but I'll let OP confirm or not

Kelse92 is correct, its from HGK racing. I was going to order direct until I found drift hq stocks HGK products. https://drifthq.com/collections/hgk-...ts/dashboard-3
The difference in weight is ounces but the carbon one is a 2.5 times the price of the frp one. I imagine it looks immaculate as the frp one is amazing quality.

I can confirm, I have the carbon one and it looks great, but it came with my car. If I was buying new I probably would go with the FRP as well.

What was drift HQ's turnaround time, fairly quick?

They were great, it was in stock (they carry quite a few HGK products in stock) and shipped out the next day - it comes truck freight and in a huge crate. I had it in about 3 days. Communication was fantastic as well, emails with status update and tracking. :thumbsup:

Lots of small things coming together slowly. Instrument display and mount is done (no pic because I'm a dummy). Wing mounts are finalized, and I just need to hand finish some of the milling to make it look like the render.

https://i.imgur.com/U1ZobEp.jpg

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I still need to mill the hex's with a 45*, bull nose the front edge and cut the trailing edge at 60* then paint or anodize.
With all the testing/simulations and redesigns we got them down to 5.5lbs each and supporting 1klbs. I'm pretty proud of what we accomplished on this part!

Moch up photo.
https://i.imgur.com/23mLsLJ.jpg

I know that you want to reduce weight. Are the "holes" in the brackets going to create any kind of vortex problem. At speed, it might disrupt the space/time continuum.

Right! In all seriousness I have no idea for now. We will use flow paint when testing starts so we might get an idea what it does or at least see big issues. I would really like to take this car to the A2 wind tunnel for testing at some point but that's a ways off for now.

After some debating on doing the milling and creating a ginormous mess..........

https://i.imgur.com/RTWEhmZ.jpg

but it was worth it!

https://i.imgur.com/Qp87we5.jpg

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and the weight test :bellyroll::bonk:

https://i.imgur.com/hrGYDnV.jpg

Starting to gain some momentum again on assembly. Got the engine bits and exhaust back from the coater (super pleased), plus the wing mounts are done. Started getting things mounted in the cabin such as the rear view monitor, switches, radio and finishing the dash mounting so it just pops out in a few seconds for servicing. Lots left to do!

Need to figure out my phone and how to take pictures while I'm at it :bonk:

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Little more done recently, trying to work on it between everything else when I can. Any progress is better than nothing!
Pretty much everything is bolted in the car now and only really have the front splitter, windows and then wiring/plumbing. Still need to order the driver's seat (containment style) and move the one currently in the car to the passenger side, along with doing the harness mounts for the passenger side (we plan on doing some things like SORC, silver state classic, mini rallies and everyone likes ride alongs :D) It's been fun making everything balance out while keeping room for a passenger.

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Received some long-awaited jewelry from Apex on Friday and I have to say they are worth the wait, very impressed by the quality. Superlight, strong, attractive. Apex has really done their work on the design and fitment for these vehicles. I was expecting the additional 5mm offset would cause problems with my current setup but was pleasantly wrong! Biggest thing for me is to see the difference with is the knurling on bead seats as I have fought tire rotation/slippage for a long time.

https://i.imgur.com/riEi3TD.jpg

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Gotta love black Friday/week sales!

:thumbsup:
Are you planning on running multiple ABS and TC maps?

Thats the plan! TC is two fold adjustable and the abs is just on/off sadly since I don't have the budget for the big dollar Bosch unit. Will have no lift shift and autoblip as well.

Splitter starting to come together now. Still need to finish the mounts behind the facia and clean up some edges (little nit picky things) but overall looks pretty good.

https://i.imgur.com/0Jh6jQ5h.jpg

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Nice! I'd be curious to see what you end up with for a TC strategy?

I will be using cut percentage and desired slip level. It's the easiest, at least for me, to dial in and control as needed.

Finished up the mounts for the splitter. Nothing magic, just a couple thin wall tubed uprights.

https://i.imgur.com/Pch6qEih.jpg

I also did some comparing of wheels and tires this weekend, no weird deep dive or anything just some basic checks while I was mounting tires on the new wheels and had my scales out.

The Apex SM-10RS is a little over 1lb lighter than the Koya's drift and Konig ultragram's (friend of mine is running those at this time). All three of them being the 17x10.
Also, a side note the toyo rr 255/40r17 is about 2-3lbs heavier than a hoosier 225/45r17 R7 (accuset scales are not the most accurate for numbers under a lb). I'll get a maxxis rc1 to compare eventually, but I bet it's about the same? The toyo also clears the nasa 266mm rule by about 9mm, as a person would guess.
Finish on the SM-10RS is absolutely fantastic and I feel it goes with the car's exterior color scheme better. (I still like the red though) Brake caliper clearance is more than ample, the knurling on the inside of the barrel is unpainted and has much deeper and sharper edges than the Konig, Koya didn't have any at all. lug nut clearance is also greater, big impact sockets are not an issue.
Suspension and body clearance is perfect. The 45et offset is a great compromise front and rear, the fronts could use a 5mm spacer to get more spring to tire clearance or just a small offset in the coilover to knuckle mounting pill. With the coilover centered in the knuckle it clears with about 3mm. Rolling of the fenders and quarters isn't needed if running race camber settings, less aggressive and a person would need to roll the rears at the minimum. (just thoughts towards other applications)

https://i.imgur.com/4dK3Eveh.jpg

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Any chance you can whack a 257mm template on one of the 10s with the RR?

You bet. I don't have the template cut for the 257mm but I do have a 3d printed piece that uses my dial calipers for a measurement at the required height.