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-   Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=41)
-   -   Anyone change transmission lube yet? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15014)

BMWDavid 08-19-2012 10:00 AM

Anyone change transmission lube yet?
 
I know there have been a couple of postings on this subject but I was hoping to get more feedback.

So for those who have changed their gear lube what did you use and what effect did it have on shifting quality/feel?

roddy 08-19-2012 11:01 AM

I changed mine and used Redline's MT-90 (GL-4) transmission lube. Shifts were fine beforehand, and even better after. I used to get a (very) slight crunch into 3rd, but that is gone now. I will be driving the car through winter and it gets pretty cold here. If shifts degrade as it gets colder, I'll try switching to MT-85. By modern standards 90wt oil is pretty thick. It is a pretty easy job...the hardest part is removing the shields under the engine and transmission so you can access the drain/fill plugs. If you plan on being under the car anyway, I'd recommend changing the fluid in the differential as well. I used Redline's 75W85 GL-5 lightweight gear oil.

coyote 08-19-2012 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roddy (Post 388832)
If you plan on being under the car anyway, I'd recommend changing the fluid in the differential as well. I used Redline's 75W85 GL-5 lightweight gear oil.

The NS gear oil is a better choice with that differential.

roddy 08-19-2012 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coyote (Post 389426)
The NS gear oil is a better choice with that differential.

NS? The only NS I saw was a 75W140. It has less or no friction modifiers (which is fine for a torsen as they dont need 'em), but imo is way heavier than needed for this application. It did seem strange that the oil in the transmission (75W90) is thicker than the oil in the rear end (75W85), but that is what the manual calls for, so I used it.

ArKiTeCkT 08-19-2012 08:45 PM

Can someone make a DIY for this or is it straightforward? I believe they come with crush washers, correct me if I'm wrong.

coyote 08-19-2012 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roddy (Post 389524)
NS? The only NS I saw was a 75W140. It has less or no friction modifiers (which is fine for a torsen as they dont need 'em), but imo is way heavier than needed for this application. It did seem strange that the oil in the transmission (75W90) is thicker than the oil in the rear end (75W85), but that is what the manual calls for, so I used it.

There is a 75w90 ns too.

What you used won't kill it comma there is just a better option available.

Sent from my SGS2 using Tapa-fkn-talk

roddy 08-19-2012 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coyote (Post 389581)
There is a 75w90 ns too.

What you used won't kill it comma there is just a better option available.

Sent from my SGS2 using Tapa-fkn-talk


Gotcha... I must have missed it. I'll give that a try next time around. 75W85 seems really light for a rear end. I think the reasoning there is fuel economy.

roddy 08-19-2012 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArKiTeCkT (Post 389570)
Can someone make a DIY for this or is it straightforward? I believe they come with crush washers, correct me if I'm wrong.

It's pretty simple. If no one does a DIY soon, I'll do it next time. If you can change your own engine oil, you can probably do this, no sweat. Remove the plate under the engine first (10 or so bolts and 7 plastic clips), then the one under the transmission (5 or 6 bolts). Both drain/fill plugs are on the driver's side of the transmission case and are easy access once the plates (undertrays?) are removed. The transmission holds about 2.3 quarts.
The differential is even easier...there is nothing in the way. The drain plug is right in the bottom of the housing, and the fill plug is about 1/2 way up on the passenger side. It only takes about 1.3 quarts or so.
If you are thinking about picking up some magnetic drain plugs, don't waste your money...the factory ones are magnetic.There are crush washers. I thought I had the right size here already, but I did not, so I re-used the OE ones and haven't had any leaks.

ArKiTeCkT 08-19-2012 10:11 PM

^ Im gonna see if I can get those washers for free when I get my oil filter from the dealer

rice_classic 08-20-2012 02:07 AM

I'm "once bitten, twice shy" with Redline MT-90.

When I changed my trans oil I noticed it appeared to be identical to the Honda Manual Transmission Lube/Fluid (MTL/MTF). Look, smell, viscosity... Still kicking myself for not catching it and sending it off for analysis along with some Honda stuff for comparo.

Either way, I have the Pennzoil Synchromesh in my transmission and Amsoil 75w-110 in my Diff.

BMWDavid 08-20-2012 06:28 AM

Either way, I have the Pennzoil Synchromesh in my transmission and Amsoil 75w-110 in my Diff.

How is that Pennzoil Synchromesh working?

rice_classic 08-20-2012 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMWDavid (Post 390299)
Either way, I have the Pennzoil Synchromesh in my transmission and Amsoil 75w-110 in my Diff.

How is that Pennzoil Synchromesh working?

Great. I've used it in my S2000, my 198k mile Prelude, my CRX ITA racecar and now my FRS.

Other than the OEM stuff, it's the only fluid I trust in there to be thin enough at low temps, strong enough at high temps and friendly enough to my yellow metals.

BMWDavid 08-20-2012 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rice_classic (Post 391649)
Great. I've used it in my S2000, my 198k mile Prelude, my CRX ITA racecar and now my FRS.

Other than the OEM stuff, it's the only fluid I trust in there to be thin enough at low temps, strong enough at high temps and friendly enough to my yellow metals.

I've seen it at my FLAPS and I don't recall if it is a synthetic?

rice_classic 08-21-2012 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMWDavid (Post 391708)
I've seen it at my FLAPS and I don't recall if it is a synthetic?

Semi-syn is my understanding.


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